PorTX

iTrader: (4)

tmk

Personally, I opted to adapt the SCTE 2.0 spring sets to my 3.0, but people have been using Associated grey big-bore springs, Kyosho X-Gear springs (orange, I think), Avid springs... It's just a matter of finding a spring with the rate you want. I don't know if it's still the case, but the TLR 22-type 12mm springs in the 3.0 kit were going soft, like the steel they used wasn't made right. I noticed it on mine when I got the 2.0 sets (which are 13mm) and compared them - the rear reds especially were a LOT softer than the red 2.0 springs, even though they were supposed to be the same rate.

tmk

...Has anyone come up with a method of keeping crap out of the spur gear, short of using an undershell?

sjeff

thanks for the advice on getting the DE racing speedline plus wheels!

i have run more than 10 packs with it. eaven some hard fullcontakt racing haha they seem to hold up verry good, the wheelnut is not digging into the wheel and i have the feeling the car handles more responsife.

tmk

Good to hear.

rhodesengr

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys. So I actually have an SCBE RTR version. I want to do some shock tuning because i routinely bottom out on the jumps at our track. I found the parts for the 4x shock tuning kits.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/losi-re...sb2963/p210184
https://www.amainhobbies.com/losi-fr...sb2959/p210185

My question is how do these spring rates compare to the OEM ones that came with the SCBE? I can't find a spec on the spring rates for the stock springs. Are they all stiffer or do the OEM ones fall in the middle somewhere?

losicorey

iTrader: (7)

tmk

...Only things I can find in reference to springs in the SCBE kit point back to the part#s for the tuning kits. They look like the same springs that all the TEN-based chassis use though, and the part# for LOSB2961 just calls them "Medium" springs. The original TEN-T kit had Soft, Medium, and Firm springs available, LOSB2960/2961/2962.

If you want to get picky about it, you can use a caliper to measure the wire diameter of the coils, then count how many coils are in the spring - do that to the similar-size ones in the tuning kits (front against front, rear against rear), and it should show you which spring the stock spring is most similar to, and then you can work from there. Personally, I'd just put the stiffest sets on front and rear and go out and do some drive-testing.

rhodesengr

iTrader: (1)

I asked the same question to Horizon Hobby and got no meaningful answer. I went ahead and ordered the tuning set. Actually, a good way to measure the spring constant is to hang a weight from each spring and measure the increase in length. I plan to do that when the springs come in. Now I have a new problem. I have been breaking the plastic shock caps. I want to order these.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...lr5062/p229076
But it is not clear if they fit the plastic shock bodies.

tmk

Comparing pictures of the plastic and aluminum shock bodies, they look like they are the same thread pitch, but I wouldn't be able to say for certain without one of each in hand.

Where are you breaking the caps at?

rhodesengr

iTrader: (1)

I wish they would just give you actual numbers or a drawing with dimensions like some servo have. Just annoying they don't give enough simple info because you know there is a drawing somewhere..

Right at the top. The plastic around the screw hole.

I thought about buying aluminum shocks but Los only sells bodies so I would have to figure out what else to buy or reuse. Why don't they just sell complete upgrade shocks? Annoying.
Proline has complete shocks but I just ordered the spring sets for the Losi ones. Maybe the Losi springs would work on proline shocks but who knows. Ugh.

tmk

There is (or was) an upgrade kit to swap out the TEN-SCTE's shocks for 22-style racing shocks. The TEN's original 13mm bore was an oddball size, so they opted to change them out for the 22-style, for reasons both performance- and parts-production-wise; the 22 shocks are double-ring-sealed instead of the single seal in the TEN shocks, and that way they only have the 22-style (12mm bore) and the 8ight-style (16mm bore) to worry about producing parts for. The 22-style shocks work fine - the SCTE 3.0 comes with them. Since you've already ordered the 2.0-style spring kits though, you can use them by getting the Tenacity-SCT shock parts kit and using the upper and lower collars that fit the 2.0 springs on them.

The 22 conversion kit is TLR334029, and the SCT shock parts set is LOS233011; the shock plastics might be the same ones that yours already uses. The conversion kit shows as discontinued, but Google finds some still for sale in various places.

lszomb

Hi there, I'd like to ask a question about the rear shocks for my SCTE. Both front and rear shocks are originally coming with the kit.

I realised if I push down the front and release it, shocks will slow bump or push back the front to the position before pushing.
However, if I did the same to the rear. Let us say I push gently, the rear would just squat down for maybe 1/4 inch and stopped there instead of bouncing back. If I push harder, rear end would go down and go up again but still stop at about 1/4 to 3/8 inch before the full extension of springs.

Is this something wrong due to my setup? or it works intentionally like that?

Thanks!!

rhodesengr

iTrader: (1)

That is great info. I guess I will wait and see if the caps fit on the plastic bodies. I also have plastic caps coming. So if the metals caps don't work, I guess i will just deal with the occasional plastic cap breaking. I think if I went with new shocks, I'd probably go with the Proline ones. I hope it doesn't come to that. My longer term plan is to build an 8ight-E 4.0.

tmk

3.0 kit, with the stock springs?