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Old 03-15-2018, 03:32 AM
  #1786  
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I have yet to see any fix myself, but I also moved on to better units and have not built a new truck for anyone since December. No way to identify the weak springs verses revised spring by part numbers or visual inspection. I would not be surprised if there are a few bad sets out there for sale. I know for certain there are hundreds of these springs in trash cans around the world. I must have added no less than 12 sets to the round file myself. That's 48 springs! What a waste.

Still love the truck though.
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Old 03-15-2018, 03:37 AM
  #1787  
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Originally Posted by Amirantha
I was going through my truck prior to my race this weekend and I remembered something I was going to ask about a while back. I have an odd bit of play in my steering rack on the posts where the rack will move up and down slightly when I steer full left or right. Is this common/expected? I ran it this way for a season after I built it (box stock, no deviation from manual) and everything seems fine, even the bearings are solid and the steering is still super responsive.
I don't think its a problem. You need a little clearance here. I have shimmed my post in the past, but have not needed to on the 3.0 rig.
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Old 03-16-2018, 09:11 PM
  #1788  
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Default Springs.

O’ Doyle rules

Last edited by Deton8er; 03-16-2018 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 03-17-2018, 05:45 PM
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I am buying a scte 3.0 with mip chassis and wanting to learn more about it.
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Old 03-18-2018, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail
but I also moved on to better units
Just out of curiosity, what did you move on to?
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Old 03-18-2018, 06:32 AM
  #1791  
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Last indoor race of the season yesterday. I ended up changing back to the original shocks after the practise rounds, because I was having some trouble with jumps being unstable using the AE shocks. Which was odd since I didn't have that problem in the previous race. Even with the TLR shocks having 32.5/27.5 oils, it was a good decision.

Now with the outdoor season being up next, I'm actually contemplating stiffer oils. I went to those oils and 1.1 piston holes front, 1.2 rear on the suggestion of a fellow local racer. But honestly while it feels fine to drive and he certainly knows car setups better than I do, the softness seems a bit excessive to me, even for bumpier low grip outdoor tracks. Maybe I messed up the drilling and accidentally made the holes bigger than intended, I don't know. But basically any landing will slam the chassis to the ground. Even with all the racket of an ongoing indoor race yesterday, I could often hear it slamming the hard track surface after small jumps. Even ye olde suspension "drop test" will cause a hit. Can't be "healthy" for the car in the long run.

Since I don't have any additional pistons, I figure I'll just try an oil change first. Maybe the original 40/35 setup, as I suspect a smaller change wouldn't be enough to combat the situation.
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Old 03-19-2018, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail
I don't think its a problem. You need a little clearance here. I have shimmed my post in the past, but have not needed to on the 3.0 rig.
It may be something with the aluminum front brace. Ill try and shim it as well, but finding just the right shim usually proves to be an adventure unto itself. The play is enough to click every time it turns hard. I just don't want it to cause issues for the bearings since they are getting tapped every time I turn hard in either direction.
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Old 03-20-2018, 02:20 PM
  #1793  
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Originally Posted by darryl1980
I am buying a scte 3.0 with mip chassis and wanting to learn more about it.
Well, there really is no such thing as a 3.0 with MIP chassis. What I'm saying is, if you have a 3.0 truck with the 3.0 chassis going to the MIP is a step backwards. It's not that you can't make it work, but the farther you get away from the MIP kit that includes specific shock towers, shock valves and springs the harder it is to figure out. Not to mention you are just getting back to the hobby making all aspects of the new truck and old truck completely unknown to you. I'm guessing your truck is an upgraded 1.0 or 2.0 that has the MIP chassis. Maybe a few 3.0 parts, maybe not. You can PM me pics of just about any part for the SCTE you have questions about if you want help. I have years of experience with every version of the SCTE truck to include the MIP. Will try to help you sort it out if you want.
Originally Posted by MaX-D
Just out of curiosity, what did you move on to?
I moved on to the best springs I have ever used on the SCTE, the TLR tuning springs from the 2.0 truck. Custom shock collar and 2.0 spring cups. All covered many times in this thread. The grey AE truck springs are a cheap solution and fit without any mods. They do rub the shock body at times, but better than sagging springs, so improvement can be had cheap.
Originally Posted by Amirantha
It may be something with the aluminum front brace. Ill try and shim it as well, but finding just the right shim usually proves to be an adventure unto itself. The play is enough to click every time it turns hard. I just don't want it to cause issues for the bearings since they are getting tapped every time I turn hard in either direction.
Take it all apart and check for wear. A simple test that can uncover all kinds of steering problems is taking the arm off the servo so all steering moves freely, or should move freely. The parts in question will be easy to identify so you can look closer at each part in question. You might be surprised that even the steering post can have wear that contributes to this slack. Ackerman Plate can also get sloppy even the ball bearing type. Heavy wear item on the older truck. Right shim size is always a challenge.
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Old 03-26-2018, 07:14 AM
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I just bought a new 3.0 and the caps that screw on the bottom of the rear shock bodys will not tread. I think both rear shock body threads are messed up brand new. Anyone else had this problem.
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Old 03-26-2018, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mx7166
I just bought a new 3.0 and the caps that screw on the bottom of the rear shock bodys will not tread. I think both rear shock body threads are messed up brand new. Anyone else had this problem.
Yep , had that problem/ hit up horizon hobbies and they'll take care of you!
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Old 03-26-2018, 07:23 PM
  #1796  
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Pretty funny that the guy complaining about misinformation on the forums is spreading misinformation. Lol.
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Old 03-29-2018, 05:01 PM
  #1797  
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is there a buggy or truggy version that is pretty much built off the scte 3.0?
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Old 03-29-2018, 06:59 PM
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MIP made a buggy conversion for a light weight 8th scale

MIP Pro8 e-Buggy Upgrade Kits | Page 1 of 1
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Old 04-02-2018, 03:39 AM
  #1799  
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Hi,

What's the best solution to protect the electronics from water under the SCT body? Does a 8ight body fit the chassis?

Cheers
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Old 04-04-2018, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by sylv456
Hi,

What's the best solution to protect the electronics from water under the SCT body? Does a 8ight body fit the chassis?

Cheers
If you use body mounts such as those on the MIP Pro8 there are many 1/8 scale bodies that fit. Since the 3.0 has a wider chassis it might even be easier to find one that leaves less of a gap on the sides.

Take a look at the Pro8 thread. I'm sure there are still a few pics in the short 108 page thread.
MIP Pro8 TLR-SCTE E-Buggy Conversion

Word of caution, get ready for heat issues if you do run a chassis cover such as an ebuggy body. Might want to read about that in same thread as well. Even on 4s heat is the enemy when airflow is restricted.
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