TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread
#1786
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
I have yet to see any fix myself, but I also moved on to better units and have not built a new truck for anyone since December. No way to identify the weak springs verses revised spring by part numbers or visual inspection. I would not be surprised if there are a few bad sets out there for sale. I know for certain there are hundreds of these springs in trash cans around the world. I must have added no less than 12 sets to the round file myself. That's 48 springs! What a waste.
Still love the truck though.
Still love the truck though.
#1787
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
I was going through my truck prior to my race this weekend and I remembered something I was going to ask about a while back. I have an odd bit of play in my steering rack on the posts where the rack will move up and down slightly when I steer full left or right. Is this common/expected? I ran it this way for a season after I built it (box stock, no deviation from manual) and everything seems fine, even the bearings are solid and the steering is still super responsive.
#1788
Tech Apprentice
Springs.
O’ Doyle rules
Last edited by Deton8er; 03-16-2018 at 09:29 PM.
#1791
Tech Fanatic
Last indoor race of the season yesterday. I ended up changing back to the original shocks after the practise rounds, because I was having some trouble with jumps being unstable using the AE shocks. Which was odd since I didn't have that problem in the previous race. Even with the TLR shocks having 32.5/27.5 oils, it was a good decision.
Now with the outdoor season being up next, I'm actually contemplating stiffer oils. I went to those oils and 1.1 piston holes front, 1.2 rear on the suggestion of a fellow local racer. But honestly while it feels fine to drive and he certainly knows car setups better than I do, the softness seems a bit excessive to me, even for bumpier low grip outdoor tracks. Maybe I messed up the drilling and accidentally made the holes bigger than intended, I don't know. But basically any landing will slam the chassis to the ground. Even with all the racket of an ongoing indoor race yesterday, I could often hear it slamming the hard track surface after small jumps. Even ye olde suspension "drop test" will cause a hit. Can't be "healthy" for the car in the long run.
Since I don't have any additional pistons, I figure I'll just try an oil change first. Maybe the original 40/35 setup, as I suspect a smaller change wouldn't be enough to combat the situation.
Now with the outdoor season being up next, I'm actually contemplating stiffer oils. I went to those oils and 1.1 piston holes front, 1.2 rear on the suggestion of a fellow local racer. But honestly while it feels fine to drive and he certainly knows car setups better than I do, the softness seems a bit excessive to me, even for bumpier low grip outdoor tracks. Maybe I messed up the drilling and accidentally made the holes bigger than intended, I don't know. But basically any landing will slam the chassis to the ground. Even with all the racket of an ongoing indoor race yesterday, I could often hear it slamming the hard track surface after small jumps. Even ye olde suspension "drop test" will cause a hit. Can't be "healthy" for the car in the long run.
Since I don't have any additional pistons, I figure I'll just try an oil change first. Maybe the original 40/35 setup, as I suspect a smaller change wouldn't be enough to combat the situation.
#1792
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
It may be something with the aluminum front brace. Ill try and shim it as well, but finding just the right shim usually proves to be an adventure unto itself. The play is enough to click every time it turns hard. I just don't want it to cause issues for the bearings since they are getting tapped every time I turn hard in either direction.
#1793
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
I moved on to the best springs I have ever used on the SCTE, the TLR tuning springs from the 2.0 truck. Custom shock collar and 2.0 spring cups. All covered many times in this thread. The grey AE truck springs are a cheap solution and fit without any mods. They do rub the shock body at times, but better than sagging springs, so improvement can be had cheap.
It may be something with the aluminum front brace. Ill try and shim it as well, but finding just the right shim usually proves to be an adventure unto itself. The play is enough to click every time it turns hard. I just don't want it to cause issues for the bearings since they are getting tapped every time I turn hard in either direction.
#1794
Tech Rookie
I just bought a new 3.0 and the caps that screw on the bottom of the rear shock bodys will not tread. I think both rear shock body threads are messed up brand new. Anyone else had this problem.
#1795
#1797
Tech Rookie
is there a buggy or truggy version that is pretty much built off the scte 3.0?
#1798
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
MIP made a buggy conversion for a light weight 8th scale
MIP Pro8 e-Buggy Upgrade Kits | Page 1 of 1
MIP Pro8 e-Buggy Upgrade Kits | Page 1 of 1
#1799
Hi,
What's the best solution to protect the electronics from water under the SCT body? Does a 8ight body fit the chassis?
Cheers
What's the best solution to protect the electronics from water under the SCT body? Does a 8ight body fit the chassis?
Cheers
#1800
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
Take a look at the Pro8 thread. I'm sure there are still a few pics in the short 108 page thread.
MIP Pro8 TLR-SCTE E-Buggy Conversion
Word of caution, get ready for heat issues if you do run a chassis cover such as an ebuggy body. Might want to read about that in same thread as well. Even on 4s heat is the enemy when airflow is restricted.