Casper

iTrader: (34)

You can upgrade a 2.0 but the big deal is the 3.0 comes with upgraded shocks, 15 deg caster blocks, better chassis braces and revised chassis with angled motor option as just some highlights. Do you need these for your 2.0, no but do they make a difference. Yes. Depends on how "serious" you are as a racer. The 2.0 is still a great truck but 3.0 is just better with all the cool stuff we continue to learn about the car and making it lighter and faster.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

I agree with Casper. If you get the 2.0 you will end up installing the 3.0 front a arms and 15 degree carriers, est $25. Ball bearing ackerman, $20. Different sway bars, $15. Maybe the newer dog bones that let it turn sharper on the front, $25. Then if you install the 22 shocks you are about $60 away from the cost of the 3.0 truck.

If you get the 3.0 truck you will need a few things. Springs, $15-$50 depending on brand. 59mm hinge pins, $10. Clamping wheel hex, $25-$30. Short list. Both trucks need the X-Ray diff washers.

I currently own the 3.0 with all the fixes and the 2.0 with 3.0 parts such as front a arms, 15 degree carriers and many upgrades. They are both turning the same lap times on the local outdoor track. The 3.0 should start to edge out the 2.0 now that I have better springs. Too close to call on outdoor track.

IMHO, The truth is the truck you buy is not going to determine the winner in a race. Its going to be the guy that has his 2.0, 3.0 or whatever brand dialed, has the best tires for conditions and makes nearly zero mistakes while pushing the limits in the main. Practice Practice Practice no matter which truck you decide on.

If pressed to pick a winner, the 3.0 should have an advantage on tighter indoor tracks due to the shorter chassis. We all want the newer truck no matter if we need it or not.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

I have been testing spring combos a while now. I was thinking about what was so good about the 2.0 shocks. My 2.0 truck always did great with the Losi tuning springs. Then I looked at what it would take to use the TLR 2.0 spring kits on this truck. I knew it was not a direct fit, but a friend dropped by and after speaking about it he made me some custom low profile shock collar adapters to put the 2.0 springs on this truck. I stuck close to the 3.0 spring rates with front Black 4.2lb and rear Red 2.7lb. Feels awesome on the bench drop test.

So now I have what I believe to be the best shock and Big Bore spring package for the 3.0 truck. The truck stays at ride height before, during and after track time. This has been proven on the 2.0 truck. It looks right and feels right on the bench. The springs never rub the shock body. I can't believe how much better this truck feels and it still has adjustment to change ride height up or down from 26mm.

For those concerned about weight, it adds 6grams total to the truck for the larger springs and the custom adapters. I think that's not even worth talking about considering that you get springs that are up to task of holding this rig up properly. A truck deserves more than buggy springs

The pictures show the custom shock collar adapters in aluminum and plastic. You can also see the difference in spring size and how they fit. Notice that I used the stock V1/2.0 lower shock spring cups. They fit with no mods on the rear. On the front I took some material off the a arm with a dremel to make room for the front cups. I did the same on the 2.0 when I installed the 3.0 front end. Took about 5 minutes and 5 test fits to call it good, should be easy to make it fit any position on the arm, but I think the center location works best for me. Check it out...

MaX-D

iTrader: (2)

What is the blue and red material that you used to cover your shock shafts? That's a great idea!

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

This is a great idea. I looked at the various parts involved and found that if I filed off the inner threads (with a round file) of a SCTE 2.0 plastic shock collar, it fit perfectly on the 3.0 shock, so using the plastic pieces as spacers it would be even less wight added. Might save a whole gram! But importantly: it would be cheap and easy to do for someone who doesn't have a friend to make the pieces out of aluminum.

Barillms

Balloons im thinking

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Yes Sir, those long party balloons they twist and make animals with. $1 for bag of them at dollar store. Just cut the balloon and use the bottom 3/4th on 22 shocks and then use the top that has the lip around the opening on the older style 2.0 shocks. Seem to hold up a long time and cheap to replace. Keep shocks clean and seals last and last. Can't complain about cost, but it is a challenge to get the balloon on the 22 shock the first time, easier after you figure it out. If everything is clean they stay in place with nothing but friction.

In the past when I let the dust boots go the seals would be done after 2-3 months and soon the scratches in the shock shaft made for an expensive repair and lots more maintenance. I get over a year out of seals this way. Some have lasted 2 years or longer, but its best to install new seals to keep shocks smooth every 1 - 2 years. I'm all about less maintenance these days such as getting 100-200 lipos between diff builds. That's what fueled my search for the X-Ray diff washers.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

That is exactly how we got started. The V1 plastic collars will work if you grind the threads out of the center. They are too thick though and that's why he made these for me. Still might work if you raise the collar all the way to the top. PM me if you want a set of the custom collars.

Barillms

Check out this pic... Tekno makes SCTE axle shafts, and outdrives for the SCTE. Look how massive these things are compared to stock.

Also, those guys who have been racing the Tekno 410.3 and now own the Losi 3.0... All the tekno wheel bearings will work in the Losi. Same sizes!👍

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

Thunder Trail,
Great work as usual! Those turned parts look excellent.
As an alternative, this would be a great part to have 3D printed.
Think I will go ahead and do that to test it myself.
PM me those ID OD numbers if you get some time to do so.

Barillms

Im gonna start running boots too. Even indoors. After 2 indoor races, my shock oil was pretty dirty.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Larger CV ball size is a substantial setup change... and we've found the smaller balls to handle much better.

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

Haven't had any issue with losi CV's personally, but I started with the 2.0 v2 if that makes a difference.
I do like the newer dog bones in the center a lot better.

I also run the balloons on my shocks. The easiest way to get them over the shock is to just drop the shock inside a 2 liter bottle and then stretch the balloon end over the opening. While holding the balloon tight around the bottle end, turn it upside down so that the shock falls into the ballon, then compress the bottle against your chest real quick. If you do this right, it will blow up the balloon long enough for the shock to drop into it from inside the bottle. I also tuck the end of the balloon near the rod ends under the spring perches so that it makes a complete seal that can't ride up at all.
It definitely makes the shock builds last much much longer.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Thanks. Pm sent

As for shock boots, I'm surprised how many guys think the boots are a waste of time. At the end of the season if you ask them how many times they had to rebuild leaky shocks this year and what it cost they still don't agree.. Personally, I'm more concerned with how much work and time is wasted on it. I got plenty of work to do keeping bearings clean, working on setup and helping other guys keep their rigs going.

sykemike

iTrader: (2)

Wondering how you keep the bearings clean?