187LikesTLR SCTE 3.0 Thread
10-31-2016, 06:06 PM
#586
Ever since i started using a cap pack on my RX8, I haven't had any puffed packs, or high temps on my Pro4 4300 w/15t pinion. I use 70-90c packs and it runs amazing... Same top end as my EB basically (keeps up or passes some EB's on the straight) I don't see a need for 3/4s anymore, at first I hated my 2s setup cause of run times.. but once i switched to 7200mah packs, its been great. I was jelly of my EB's looooong runtimes with a 7200 4s.... but the 7200 2's arent bad!
10-31-2016, 06:16 PM
#587
hobbywing cap pack
here is one i use in my sct, i use a tekin one on my eb. (not really needed for the eb tho)
it will help keep your temps cooler and helps your batts/esc, the tekin setup spikes over 200amps quite often from what ive seen..
if you do a search for cap pack in this thread you'll see a ton of info on them. i would def recommend one for 2s sct. you solder it to your esc with the batt leads
10-31-2016, 06:29 PM
#588
hobbywing cap pack
here is one i use in my sct, i use a tekin one on my eb. (not really needed for the eb tho)
it will help keep your temps cooler and helps your batts/esc, the tekin setup spikes over 200amps quite often from what ive seen..
if you do a search for cap pack in this thread you'll see a ton of info on them. i would def recommend one for 2s sct. you solder it to your esc with the batt leads
here is one i use in my sct, i use a tekin one on my eb. (not really needed for the eb tho)
it will help keep your temps cooler and helps your batts/esc, the tekin setup spikes over 200amps quite often from what ive seen..
if you do a search for cap pack in this thread you'll see a ton of info on them. i would def recommend one for 2s sct. you solder it to your esc with the batt leads
10-31-2016, 09:46 PM
#590
Thunder Trail-- I get it I have not been as involved with the SCTE 3.0 since it is no longer Ryan's project. I have also not built a ground up 3.0 yet. I do know that the team does do full kit builds with the manual to try and catch the packaging and manual issues. I did that for the 1.0 and 2.0. So they do try to catch this stuff before it gets to the customer as you suggested. I just want you to know they don't use you guys to catch this stuff. The spring thing is odd to me. Being a mechanical design engineer who had done a bit of spring design I can tell you big bore springs are not really the answer here. I have to guess the springs were not heat treated or the material was bad. I am not an employee or have that info. I don't even know what material TLR uses for their springs as there are a few common spring materials however this is quite odd. Frank is aware of the issue and I am sure he will get to the bottom of it as this effects the entire 22 line now so I am sure it will get resolved quickly. Some of the other stuff. You listed short screws are odd as they usually catch that stuff. The hinge pins I am guessing Frank changed to better accommodate lower toe in angles and it may result in a little more play. The front bumper is a soft material on purpose so it gives properly so you have to take care when threading in it. The standoffs were a quality issue but I am sure TLR has warrantied those parts. There are some small issues and I am sorry they were in your kit but TLR will stand behind the product and if you find issues like you have with flat out bad parts they have a strong history of making it right.
10-31-2016, 09:58 PM
#591
I sold my friend my SCTE and I run Tekno now, but he put a 4s setup in the SCTE and within 1 day snapped the CVD.. lol, he was running sensorless though, so it was kinda twitchy.
Sadly, I do miss my Losi at times though, I love how my Tekno handles, but the look of it.. ugh, so much plastic!
Sadly, I do miss my Losi at times though, I love how my Tekno handles, but the look of it.. ugh, so much plastic!
I thought the springs were big enough before I experienced these issues. I sent Frank my first set of red springs that were sagging bad with one side way more than other. I think I had 4 lipos on them, I didn't get a response on what he thought after looking them over.
I know your right about the material and that does seem to be the issue. However, the larger 2.0 springs don't seem to have these issues and wire size is about the same. I expect new springs to have some settling, but this has been beyond normal and it never seems to stop. Gets lower and more uneven after every run. The front springs seem to be less of an issue, but same problem. About 3-4 lipos before I notice fronts are not at ride height.
I think its a problem more wide spread than anyone will admit. Its not about the money I have wasted on these springs, its about the frustration of not being able to get a proper fix from Losi. No matter how great the truck is the springs make it useless after a few runs.
IMHO, We need a few TLR Team Drivers to grab a 3.0 kit off the self and do a ground up build with the sole purpose being to identify quality control issues. Identify Mistakes in the manual, number or letters on parts bags and everything a fresh builder would experience. Then have these same TLR guys track test it 25 lipos with inspections after every 5 runs. Checking ride height, take springs off the truck and testing them with a spring tester.
Additionally, they need to confirm the other things we, the end users, already identified for free. Wrong part number in manual for lower spring cup on rear shocks, Bag ID markings, holes off on chassis braces, too soft material on front bumper mount, lower shock screws are too short, upper shock standoff material weakness, No instructions for using the shims to get proper backlash on ring and pinion, No instructions for the 3 degree plate option, diff screw problems, rear hinge pins too short, binding on rear arms and anything else associated with shock springs.
Things are different on this side of the fence. TLR guys at the top are not dealing with or experiencing the frustration that comes with these problems. I'm sure many TLR guys are racing the 2.0 or a pre-production truck that is not an off the shelve kit like we have.
Again, Big thanks for any help you can provide. We just want to fix it
I know your right about the material and that does seem to be the issue. However, the larger 2.0 springs don't seem to have these issues and wire size is about the same. I expect new springs to have some settling, but this has been beyond normal and it never seems to stop. Gets lower and more uneven after every run. The front springs seem to be less of an issue, but same problem. About 3-4 lipos before I notice fronts are not at ride height.
I think its a problem more wide spread than anyone will admit. Its not about the money I have wasted on these springs, its about the frustration of not being able to get a proper fix from Losi. No matter how great the truck is the springs make it useless after a few runs.
IMHO, We need a few TLR Team Drivers to grab a 3.0 kit off the self and do a ground up build with the sole purpose being to identify quality control issues. Identify Mistakes in the manual, number or letters on parts bags and everything a fresh builder would experience. Then have these same TLR guys track test it 25 lipos with inspections after every 5 runs. Checking ride height, take springs off the truck and testing them with a spring tester.
Additionally, they need to confirm the other things we, the end users, already identified for free. Wrong part number in manual for lower spring cup on rear shocks, Bag ID markings, holes off on chassis braces, too soft material on front bumper mount, lower shock screws are too short, upper shock standoff material weakness, No instructions for using the shims to get proper backlash on ring and pinion, No instructions for the 3 degree plate option, diff screw problems, rear hinge pins too short, binding on rear arms and anything else associated with shock springs.
Things are different on this side of the fence. TLR guys at the top are not dealing with or experiencing the frustration that comes with these problems. I'm sure many TLR guys are racing the 2.0 or a pre-production truck that is not an off the shelve kit like we have.
Again, Big thanks for any help you can provide. We just want to fix it
.I really don't think this vehicle has as many 'problems' as you're experiencing. Springs settle, but there are many other factors that greatly affect ride height, most especially stiction in the shocks. Unless you are testing, and rechecking the ride height with brand new x-rings after each run, then I would expect the ride height to change some over time. I've run these shocks as produced in the kit for over a year, and never had issues maintaining ride height. I do run on indoor clay tracks mostly, so the 'stiction' issue will be more controlled or limited.
The manual actually has the correct part number for the spring cups, whether they are standard or +4mm, but it does have +4mm marked under the part number. The first batch of kits were miss packed and should have had 4pcs of +4mm spring cups. I've said this before and referred people to product support, who is also aware of it. I'm not sure what else I can do to help with this
As for the kits being 'mislabelled', I've built two kits myself, and they were perfect to the screw. I think maybe you're assuming that Bag A1 should only match step A-1 in the manual? This isn't the case. Within Bag A, you have sub bags A1, A2, etc. Open A1, build steps A-1 to A-# (4, 5, 6, etc.), then when you've exhausted parts, you open A2 and start on the next step. Same goes for Bags B, C, D, etc.
As for the chassis brace holes, those are very close. With a molded part that size, it is almost impossible to be 'exact', but those parts fit fine without issue in performance or durability.
Material on the front bumper mount, I'm not even sure about what you're referring to here. Shock stand offs, I've seen a few break when tightening down, but not while running. We're looking into this. I've run the shock mounting screws since I've built my kit without any issues, so I'm not sure on this one where your issue is coming from?
Instructions, I run the ring and pinion front and rear with no shims, and no issues. I run a lot of motor and I'm super punched, landing on throttle, full throttle to full brake, etc., and I've not had any issues with gears either. If you want to shim the ring and pinion, those spacers are provided, but they aren't really needed, hence why they aren't covered explicitly in the instructions. As for the 0 deg and 3 deg plate, that's covered in step D-6 on page 27.
Diff screws, I use a power driver on, and I've not stripped a head on those. I think it just comes down to using quality drivers, especially MIP.
Rear hinge pins have to be a certain length to fit in all configurations of toe and anti-squat. If you run 3 deg of anti-squat and 4 deg of toe, and set the hinge pin to be that length, then when you run 1 deg of anti-squat and 2 deg of toe, the pin braces can't even touch off the transmission boxes because the pins are too long. We haven't had issues at all during testing breaking any parts associated with the rear hinge pin length. On the 1.0 and 2.0s, I always had to shorten the pins for proper assembly, and now it is fixed for the 3.0
The rear arms can be long depending no the toe and anti-squat setting. This was an existing part that we didn't go back and change to make this fit 100% perfect, but it's a relatively straight forward fix here. I can do a video if that'll help you out. Let me know.
I think the SCTE 3.0 is the best 4wd SCT you can buy off the shelf. I think it performs the best, is the easiest to drive, the fastest, and the most durable. Is every single part 100% perfect in everyway... I wouldn't say that. But I've raced, built, and tested a TON of RC cars over the years, and I haven't found a perfect vehicle yet.
11-01-2016, 11:42 AM
#592
Tech Rookie
Hinge pin inserts
Hi all, just thought i'd share what happened to my rear hinge pin insert after one too many crashes attempting to clear a rather large 1/8th track table top jump. I'm not concerned about the durability, as it took multiple bad landings before it gave way, and I was running a chunky Ford bronco body which made nailing it near impossible. If anything I'm glad the little insert went first, potentially protecting a more expensive breakage elsewhere.
As it was a 0 insert I was simply able to spin it around as shown in the photo and carry on. Hats off to the TLR guys, very impressed with the truck so far, especially the low COG compared to my old Tekno is very noticeable & appreciated.
As it was a 0 insert I was simply able to spin it around as shown in the photo and carry on. Hats off to the TLR guys, very impressed with the truck so far, especially the low COG compared to my old Tekno is very noticeable & appreciated.
11-01-2016, 12:03 PM
#593
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
Hi all, just thought i'd share what happened to my rear hinge pin insert after one too many crashes attempting to clear a rather large 1/8th track table top jump. I'm not concerned about the durability, as it took multiple bad landings before it gave way, and I was running a chunky Ford bronco body which made nailing it near impossible. If anything I'm glad the little insert went first, potentially protecting a more expensive breakage elsewhere.
As it was a 0 insert I was simply able to spin it around as shown in the photo and carry on. Hats off to the TLR guys, very impressed with the truck so far, especially the low COG compared to my old Tekno is very noticeable & appreciated.
As it was a 0 insert I was simply able to spin it around as shown in the photo and carry on. Hats off to the TLR guys, very impressed with the truck so far, especially the low COG compared to my old Tekno is very noticeable & appreciated.
JMHO
11-01-2016, 02:59 PM
#594
I agree, a longer pin would provide more bearing surface
11-01-2016, 05:07 PM
#598
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Im about the same maybe a slightly less with my 4300. I've got SMC 6000 and a 7600. I save the larger for the mains if I make it. it will do 8-10 easy but I won't yank it real hard early either. I turn my current limit down to 55-65% which is now called drive frequency with Tekins new 255 software for Hotwire.
11-01-2016, 05:21 PM
#599
Im about the same maybe a slightly less with my 4300. I've got SMC 6000 and a 7600. I save the larger for the mains if I make it. it will do 8-10 easy but I won't yank it real hard early either. I turn my current limit down to 55-65% which is now called drive frequency with Tekins new 255 software for Hotwire.
11-01-2016, 06:17 PM
#600
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
You: "I'm having all these terrible problems with my new kit"
Frank: "Those issues aren't valid, mine aren't that way mine work perfect must be anecdotal user error"
3rd party: Strolls in "Anyone ever see this broken insert that looks exactly like the hinge pin was too short and pulled out even on 0 settings with no aggressive angle."
