Your favorite Tire Sauce recipe
#16
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
Never noticed a problem, i have a set of dirt webs that have prob been sealed in a bag for 2 years because of the wheels there on and they where LW heavy. Dont punch holes in the tires though(make sure the rim is vented) since any sauce is gonna attack the foams.
#17
Interesting that m4s are the tire of choice, in my experience clay coumpounds definetly seemed to react better to sauce than m4 or ss. You might try gold dirtweb/smoothys or some mc primes. Dont be discouraged if they dont work right away sometimes they need to scrub in first, you can help that along with a 80grit sanding block.
Have never found a better suace for Jc golds than blue can LW, dirt cheap also.
Have never found a better suace for Jc golds than blue can LW, dirt cheap also.
But the "fast guys" at the track say that MC isnt as good as M4
#19
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
pretty good list of ingredients worth experimenting here:
http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2015...ion-compounds/
it might be worth trying each ingredient separately and then provide a ranking of the effectiveness for each on a scale of 1-10, then you can mix different blends together until you find a combination that works well for you.
I've been using Liquid Wrench Blue (LWB) for a cost effective method by spraying the fluid into an empty Associated shock bottle, the tip of that bottle works perfectly as an applicator to minimize waste. When traction is down, I'll use Sticky Kicks Pink (SKP) which is more aggressive (also wears the tires a little quicker too). I can't help but notice that SKP evaporates very quickly and I can apply it moments before a race making it one of the better sauces I've used, though significantly more expensive than LWB, plus I also use LWB to spray my car down for a good general cleaning agent before blowing it off with an air compressor.
Seeing how RCPhreak recommends mixing Brake Cleaner with LWB, I would imagine that would help it dry quicker too... LWB by itself tends to take about 15-20 min to dry without a fan.
Perhaps the higher the ratio of Brake Cleaner, the faster the mix will dry?
***
I kinda wonder if I can recycle my nasty used acetone that I use to remove tires might double up as a substitute for brake cleaner to help the LWB dry quicker? After all, there is residual CA that is dissolved in the mixture... maybe that will help add traction too, ha!
http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2015...ion-compounds/
Mineral Spirits, WD-40, Diesel Fuel, Simple Green, Kerosene, Denatured Alcohol, Distilled Turpentine, Oil of Winter Green, Food Grade Wax, ISO Alcohol, Windex, Lighter Fluid, ATF, Acetone, Rosin
I've been using Liquid Wrench Blue (LWB) for a cost effective method by spraying the fluid into an empty Associated shock bottle, the tip of that bottle works perfectly as an applicator to minimize waste. When traction is down, I'll use Sticky Kicks Pink (SKP) which is more aggressive (also wears the tires a little quicker too). I can't help but notice that SKP evaporates very quickly and I can apply it moments before a race making it one of the better sauces I've used, though significantly more expensive than LWB, plus I also use LWB to spray my car down for a good general cleaning agent before blowing it off with an air compressor.
Seeing how RCPhreak recommends mixing Brake Cleaner with LWB, I would imagine that would help it dry quicker too... LWB by itself tends to take about 15-20 min to dry without a fan.
Perhaps the higher the ratio of Brake Cleaner, the faster the mix will dry?
***
I kinda wonder if I can recycle my nasty used acetone that I use to remove tires might double up as a substitute for brake cleaner to help the LWB dry quicker? After all, there is residual CA that is dissolved in the mixture... maybe that will help add traction too, ha!
Last edited by billdelong; 08-10-2016 at 12:14 PM.
#21
Why not just get LW in the 4oz bottle, no need to spray aerosol into another bottle. (Availability is probably a concern, have never seen the bottle in an auto parts store)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ABCH6E...ter_B00SN5GGOI
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ABCH6E...ter_B00SN5GGOI
#25
Tech Adept
#26
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
I use regular Cheatersauce and I take a few months to finish a bottle. I apply a light coat using a toothbrush typically 15 mins before running and its dry with a tacky feeling. Works great on slicks (knocks the edginess off), no swelling/ballooning of the tires, doesn't wear off half way through the run and has little to no smell to it. Amain carries the stuff so its easy to get.
#27
Someone at my track had some sort of blend of diesel, mineral spirits, and wintergreen. Perhaps a few other things. Think it was some go kart recipe. This ring a bell with anyone and anyone know percentages? I've read the wintergreen oil needs some sort of carrier to get into the rubber. I like the idea of wintergreen, as it's what's used in topical ointments and was also considering using wintergreen with rubbing alcohol. Would be nice also to know the diesel/wintergreen/mineral spirits combo for break in. Traction was unreal
#28
I have a huge bottle of Wintergreen. How much do you use, and what do I mix it with? Someone at the track said my car would smell like hemerrhoid cream
#29
It never ceases to amaze me the crap people will expose themselves to just for a tiny bit of grip on a toy car. Most of the stuff being used is pure mystery sauce... while others are mixing belt dressing, diesel fuel, brake cleaner (!), mineral spirits, etc.
Really?
Really?
#30
That's why I liked the oil of wintergreen and alcohol as a carrier part. Oil of hemorhoid cream (wintergreen) plus rubbing alcohol seems pretty non toxic and would be nice for a quick break in. Although, I'm not opposed to mixing in some diesel or turpentine laying around the house for a quick fix to soften tires when I've got a race 2 hours away in the AM with brand new tires.