TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
|
|||
#317
Frank, my car doesn't want to stay in alignment. Ill get it perfectly centered on the bench (still using the kit front toe & steering link measurements), then it drives nice & straight during a low speed check. As soon as I start driving on track at speed it goes out of alignment. Ill mess with the radio adjustments to get it to drive straight and as soon as I wreck or have a hard landing it will get outta whack again.
I'm going to tear her down to see what's wrong, but maybe you have some suggestions? Im using the TLR aluminum steering parts so that seems pretty bullet proof. I think I might have a cracked bulkhead or something because there seem to be an excessive amount of slop in the front end for a car with only about 15-20 packs on it. Otherwise the car is amazing. I just couldn't race fast this weekend cause I was dealing with shit steering, haha
I'm going to tear her down to see what's wrong, but maybe you have some suggestions? Im using the TLR aluminum steering parts so that seems pretty bullet proof. I think I might have a cracked bulkhead or something because there seem to be an excessive amount of slop in the front end for a car with only about 15-20 packs on it. Otherwise the car is amazing. I just couldn't race fast this weekend cause I was dealing with shit steering, haha
#318
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
Frank, my car doesn't want to stay in alignment. Ill get it perfectly centered on the bench (still using the kit front toe & steering link measurements), then it drives nice & straight during a low speed check. As soon as I start driving on track at speed it goes out of alignment. Ill mess with the radio adjustments to get it to drive straight and as soon as I wreck or have a hard landing it will get outta whack again.
I'm going to tear her down to see what's wrong, but maybe you have some suggestions? Im using the TLR aluminum steering parts so that seems pretty bullet proof. I think I might have a cracked bulkhead or something because there seem to be an excessive amount of slop in the front end for a car with only about 15-20 packs on it. Otherwise the car is amazing. I just couldn't race fast this weekend cause I was dealing with shit steering, haha
I'm going to tear her down to see what's wrong, but maybe you have some suggestions? Im using the TLR aluminum steering parts so that seems pretty bullet proof. I think I might have a cracked bulkhead or something because there seem to be an excessive amount of slop in the front end for a car with only about 15-20 packs on it. Otherwise the car is amazing. I just couldn't race fast this weekend cause I was dealing with shit steering, haha
#319
Super Moderator
iTrader: (81)
Frank, my car doesn't want to stay in alignment. Ill get it perfectly centered on the bench (still using the kit front toe & steering link measurements), then it drives nice & straight during a low speed check. As soon as I start driving on track at speed it goes out of alignment. Ill mess with the radio adjustments to get it to drive straight and as soon as I wreck or have a hard landing it will get outta whack again.
I'm going to tear her down to see what's wrong, but maybe you have some suggestions? Im using the TLR aluminum steering parts so that seems pretty bullet proof. I think I might have a cracked bulkhead or something because there seem to be an excessive amount of slop in the front end for a car with only about 15-20 packs on it. Otherwise the car is amazing. I just couldn't race fast this weekend cause I was dealing with shit steering, haha
I'm going to tear her down to see what's wrong, but maybe you have some suggestions? Im using the TLR aluminum steering parts so that seems pretty bullet proof. I think I might have a cracked bulkhead or something because there seem to be an excessive amount of slop in the front end for a car with only about 15-20 packs on it. Otherwise the car is amazing. I just couldn't race fast this weekend cause I was dealing with shit steering, haha
#320
Frank, my car doesn't want to stay in alignment. Ill get it perfectly centered on the bench (still using the kit front toe & steering link measurements), then it drives nice & straight during a low speed check. As soon as I start driving on track at speed it goes out of alignment. Ill mess with the radio adjustments to get it to drive straight and as soon as I wreck or have a hard landing it will get outta whack again.
I'm going to tear her down to see what's wrong, but maybe you have some suggestions? Im using the TLR aluminum steering parts so that seems pretty bullet proof. I think I might have a cracked bulkhead or something because there seem to be an excessive amount of slop in the front end for a car with only about 15-20 packs on it. Otherwise the car is amazing. I just couldn't race fast this weekend cause I was dealing with shit steering, haha
I'm going to tear her down to see what's wrong, but maybe you have some suggestions? Im using the TLR aluminum steering parts so that seems pretty bullet proof. I think I might have a cracked bulkhead or something because there seem to be an excessive amount of slop in the front end for a car with only about 15-20 packs on it. Otherwise the car is amazing. I just couldn't race fast this weekend cause I was dealing with shit steering, haha
#321
Yes. I have the new TLR Horn, Alu bell cranks, and Alu servo saver.
I went thru the car last night and made sure the steering turnbuckles are exactly the same length as the kit instructions. They were both within .2 mm Also checked the turnbuckle that connects the rack and servo. Doesn't feel like anything is binding and the bulkhead isn't cracked. The servo seems to be working properly.
I put everything back together and made sure it's tight. I also fine tuned my epa endpoints. Going to run some packs tomorrow, hopefully it's magically fixed. It's no fun counter steering down the back straight like a Nascar driver and trying to turn good laps, haha.
I went thru the car last night and made sure the steering turnbuckles are exactly the same length as the kit instructions. They were both within .2 mm Also checked the turnbuckle that connects the rack and servo. Doesn't feel like anything is binding and the bulkhead isn't cracked. The servo seems to be working properly.
I put everything back together and made sure it's tight. I also fine tuned my epa endpoints. Going to run some packs tomorrow, hopefully it's magically fixed. It's no fun counter steering down the back straight like a Nascar driver and trying to turn good laps, haha.
#322
HeyFrank, what's a good baseline gearing for 13.5 on a large indoor high bite track?
#325
Yes. I have the new TLR Horn, Alu bell cranks, and Alu servo saver.
I went thru the car last night and made sure the steering turnbuckles are exactly the same length as the kit instructions. They were both within .2 mm Also checked the turnbuckle that connects the rack and servo. Doesn't feel like anything is binding and the bulkhead isn't cracked. The servo seems to be working properly.
I put everything back together and made sure it's tight. I also fine tuned my epa endpoints. Going to run some packs tomorrow, hopefully it's magically fixed. It's no fun counter steering down the back straight like a Nascar driver and trying to turn good laps, haha.
I went thru the car last night and made sure the steering turnbuckles are exactly the same length as the kit instructions. They were both within .2 mm Also checked the turnbuckle that connects the rack and servo. Doesn't feel like anything is binding and the bulkhead isn't cracked. The servo seems to be working properly.
I put everything back together and made sure it's tight. I also fine tuned my epa endpoints. Going to run some packs tomorrow, hopefully it's magically fixed. It's no fun counter steering down the back straight like a Nascar driver and trying to turn good laps, haha.
It's called the "Dirt Maze". It is not yet available, still in testing, but with the results we saw, it's probably coming soon . We ran normal Dirt Webs on the front of both 2wd and 4wd.
#326
I had this going on a little, and the screws to mount the servo down weren't super tight, I think the servo was moving. It was really good after I cranked those down. Make sure to check those.
I'm really not a sure, I haven't run 13.5T yet. I'll see if I can find out.
It's called the "Dirt Maze". It is not yet available, still in testing, but with the results we saw, it's probably coming soon . We ran normal Dirt Webs on the front of both 2wd and 4wd.
I'm really not a sure, I haven't run 13.5T yet. I'll see if I can find out.
It's called the "Dirt Maze". It is not yet available, still in testing, but with the results we saw, it's probably coming soon . We ran normal Dirt Webs on the front of both 2wd and 4wd.
Thanks Frank, I'll crack those screws down. Appreciate all the help!
#327
Tech Regular
It is usually a problem with the servo horn problem I had a similar problem on my 1:8 buggy
#328
Tech Rookie
Help!
I'm having an issue with building a new shock.
Whenever I test my rebound, on contraction, I get the desired 2mm, but on extension, the piston rebounds almost all the way in.
I let the shock sit for 20 min to get air out before screwing on the shock cap. The shock is filled with oil so that when I contract the piston to the half point, the shock bleeds oil. I stopped roughly 2mm from the top and screwed in the bleed screw.
I noticed there was only 2 o-rings for each shock. I put one on the top of the shock's bottom threads and one on the bottom of the shock's top threads. I didn't see an o-ring for inside the shock cap itself, then again the instructions didn't show one.
I've followed numerous Youtube videos of the TLR factory racers rebuilding their shocks with no luck. The videos helped on my 22 3.0 but for some reason the same tricks are working on my 22-4 2.0.
Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
I'm having an issue with building a new shock.
Whenever I test my rebound, on contraction, I get the desired 2mm, but on extension, the piston rebounds almost all the way in.
I let the shock sit for 20 min to get air out before screwing on the shock cap. The shock is filled with oil so that when I contract the piston to the half point, the shock bleeds oil. I stopped roughly 2mm from the top and screwed in the bleed screw.
I noticed there was only 2 o-rings for each shock. I put one on the top of the shock's bottom threads and one on the bottom of the shock's top threads. I didn't see an o-ring for inside the shock cap itself, then again the instructions didn't show one.
I've followed numerous Youtube videos of the TLR factory racers rebuilding their shocks with no luck. The videos helped on my 22 3.0 but for some reason the same tricks are working on my 22-4 2.0.
Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
#329
Help!
I'm having an issue with building a new shock.
Whenever I test my rebound, on contraction, I get the desired 2mm, but on extension, the piston rebounds almost all the way in.
I let the shock sit for 20 min to get air out before screwing on the shock cap. The shock is filled with oil so that when I contract the piston to the half point, the shock bleeds oil. I stopped roughly 2mm from the top and screwed in the bleed screw.
I noticed there was only 2 o-rings for each shock. I put one on the top of the shock's bottom threads and one on the bottom of the shock's top threads. I didn't see an o-ring for inside the shock cap itself, then again the instructions didn't show one.
I've followed numerous Youtube videos of the TLR factory racers rebuilding their shocks with no luck. The videos helped on my 22 3.0 but for some reason the same tricks are working on my 22-4 2.0.
Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
I'm having an issue with building a new shock.
Whenever I test my rebound, on contraction, I get the desired 2mm, but on extension, the piston rebounds almost all the way in.
I let the shock sit for 20 min to get air out before screwing on the shock cap. The shock is filled with oil so that when I contract the piston to the half point, the shock bleeds oil. I stopped roughly 2mm from the top and screwed in the bleed screw.
I noticed there was only 2 o-rings for each shock. I put one on the top of the shock's bottom threads and one on the bottom of the shock's top threads. I didn't see an o-ring for inside the shock cap itself, then again the instructions didn't show one.
I've followed numerous Youtube videos of the TLR factory racers rebuilding their shocks with no luck. The videos helped on my 22 3.0 but for some reason the same tricks are working on my 22-4 2.0.
Any idea what I'm doing wrong?