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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 07-18-2016, 10:08 AM   #316
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Thanks bud
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Old 07-18-2016, 04:34 PM   #317
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Frank, my car doesn't want to stay in alignment. Ill get it perfectly centered on the bench (still using the kit front toe & steering link measurements), then it drives nice & straight during a low speed check. As soon as I start driving on track at speed it goes out of alignment. Ill mess with the radio adjustments to get it to drive straight and as soon as I wreck or have a hard landing it will get outta whack again.

I'm going to tear her down to see what's wrong, but maybe you have some suggestions? Im using the TLR aluminum steering parts so that seems pretty bullet proof. I think I might have a cracked bulkhead or something because there seem to be an excessive amount of slop in the front end for a car with only about 15-20 packs on it. Otherwise the car is amazing. I just couldn't race fast this weekend cause I was dealing with shit steering, haha
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Old 07-18-2016, 05:08 PM   #318
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Originally Posted by mgers75 View Post
Frank, my car doesn't want to stay in alignment. Ill get it perfectly centered on the bench (still using the kit front toe & steering link measurements), then it drives nice & straight during a low speed check. As soon as I start driving on track at speed it goes out of alignment. Ill mess with the radio adjustments to get it to drive straight and as soon as I wreck or have a hard landing it will get outta whack again.

I'm going to tear her down to see what's wrong, but maybe you have some suggestions? Im using the TLR aluminum steering parts so that seems pretty bullet proof. I think I might have a cracked bulkhead or something because there seem to be an excessive amount of slop in the front end for a car with only about 15-20 packs on it. Otherwise the car is amazing. I just couldn't race fast this weekend cause I was dealing with shit steering, haha
I had a very similar problem, I fixed my problem by setting my end points, ever since I have not had an issue
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Old 07-18-2016, 06:33 PM   #319
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Originally Posted by mgers75 View Post
Frank, my car doesn't want to stay in alignment. Ill get it perfectly centered on the bench (still using the kit front toe & steering link measurements), then it drives nice & straight during a low speed check. As soon as I start driving on track at speed it goes out of alignment. Ill mess with the radio adjustments to get it to drive straight and as soon as I wreck or have a hard landing it will get outta whack again.

I'm going to tear her down to see what's wrong, but maybe you have some suggestions? Im using the TLR aluminum steering parts so that seems pretty bullet proof. I think I might have a cracked bulkhead or something because there seem to be an excessive amount of slop in the front end for a car with only about 15-20 packs on it. Otherwise the car is amazing. I just couldn't race fast this weekend cause I was dealing with shit steering, haha
For trouble shooting, measure the distance between your ball cups when you have it setup on the bench. Then after the problem returns measure the distance again and see if it changed. If it did, perhaps the ball cup is not holding its position and it is jumping threads on the tie-rod. Then you know it isn't electrical related. I hope that made sense.
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Old 07-19-2016, 11:32 AM   #320
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Originally Posted by mgers75 View Post
Frank, my car doesn't want to stay in alignment. Ill get it perfectly centered on the bench (still using the kit front toe & steering link measurements), then it drives nice & straight during a low speed check. As soon as I start driving on track at speed it goes out of alignment. Ill mess with the radio adjustments to get it to drive straight and as soon as I wreck or have a hard landing it will get outta whack again.

I'm going to tear her down to see what's wrong, but maybe you have some suggestions? Im using the TLR aluminum steering parts so that seems pretty bullet proof. I think I might have a cracked bulkhead or something because there seem to be an excessive amount of slop in the front end for a car with only about 15-20 packs on it. Otherwise the car is amazing. I just couldn't race fast this weekend cause I was dealing with shit steering, haha
Do you have the TLR aluminum A/B Horn also?
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:17 PM   #321
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Do you have the TLR aluminum A/B Horn also?
Yes. I have the new TLR Horn, Alu bell cranks, and Alu servo saver.

I went thru the car last night and made sure the steering turnbuckles are exactly the same length as the kit instructions. They were both within .2 mm Also checked the turnbuckle that connects the rack and servo. Doesn't feel like anything is binding and the bulkhead isn't cracked. The servo seems to be working properly.

I put everything back together and made sure it's tight. I also fine tuned my epa endpoints. Going to run some packs tomorrow, hopefully it's magically fixed. It's no fun counter steering down the back straight like a Nascar driver and trying to turn good laps, haha.
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:18 PM   #322
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HeyFrank, what's a good baseline gearing for 13.5 on a large indoor high bite track?
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:36 PM   #323
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Frank,

What tires were you guys running at HRH? I saw a picture of Maifields 22-4 2.0 and the tires looked like Dirt Webs in the center but the outside looks like some sort of Bar Code?
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:44 PM   #324
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Frank,

What tires were you guys running at HRH? I saw a picture of Maifields 22-4 2.0 and the tires looked like Dirt Webs in the center but the outside looks like some sort of Bar Code?
They are called Dirt Maze and are currently in development along with some new compounds from JConcepts
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:15 PM   #325
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Originally Posted by mgers75 View Post
Yes. I have the new TLR Horn, Alu bell cranks, and Alu servo saver.

I went thru the car last night and made sure the steering turnbuckles are exactly the same length as the kit instructions. They were both within .2 mm Also checked the turnbuckle that connects the rack and servo. Doesn't feel like anything is binding and the bulkhead isn't cracked. The servo seems to be working properly.

I put everything back together and made sure it's tight. I also fine tuned my epa endpoints. Going to run some packs tomorrow, hopefully it's magically fixed. It's no fun counter steering down the back straight like a Nascar driver and trying to turn good laps, haha.
I had this going on a little, and the screws to mount the servo down weren't super tight, I think the servo was moving. It was really good after I cranked those down. Make sure to check those.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mgers75 View Post
HeyFrank, what's a good baseline gearing for 13.5 on a large indoor high bite track?
I'm really not a sure, I haven't run 13.5T yet. I'll see if I can find out.

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Originally Posted by Mudcat981 View Post
Frank,

What tires were you guys running at HRH? I saw a picture of Maifields 22-4 2.0 and the tires looked like Dirt Webs in the center but the outside looks like some sort of Bar Code?
It's called the "Dirt Maze". It is not yet available, still in testing, but with the results we saw, it's probably coming soon . We ran normal Dirt Webs on the front of both 2wd and 4wd.
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:33 PM   #326
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I had this going on a little, and the screws to mount the servo down weren't super tight, I think the servo was moving. It was really good after I cranked those down. Make sure to check those.



I'm really not a sure, I haven't run 13.5T yet. I'll see if I can find out.



It's called the "Dirt Maze". It is not yet available, still in testing, but with the results we saw, it's probably coming soon . We ran normal Dirt Webs on the front of both 2wd and 4wd.

Thanks Frank, I'll crack those screws down. Appreciate all the help!
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:15 PM   #327
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It is usually a problem with the servo horn problem I had a similar problem on my 1:8 buggy
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:42 PM   #328
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Help!

I'm having an issue with building a new shock.
Whenever I test my rebound, on contraction, I get the desired 2mm, but on extension, the piston rebounds almost all the way in.

I let the shock sit for 20 min to get air out before screwing on the shock cap. The shock is filled with oil so that when I contract the piston to the half point, the shock bleeds oil. I stopped roughly 2mm from the top and screwed in the bleed screw.

I noticed there was only 2 o-rings for each shock. I put one on the top of the shock's bottom threads and one on the bottom of the shock's top threads. I didn't see an o-ring for inside the shock cap itself, then again the instructions didn't show one.

I've followed numerous Youtube videos of the TLR factory racers rebuilding their shocks with no luck. The videos helped on my 22 3.0 but for some reason the same tricks are working on my 22-4 2.0.

Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:35 PM   #329
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Help!

I'm having an issue with building a new shock.
Whenever I test my rebound, on contraction, I get the desired 2mm, but on extension, the piston rebounds almost all the way in.

I let the shock sit for 20 min to get air out before screwing on the shock cap. The shock is filled with oil so that when I contract the piston to the half point, the shock bleeds oil. I stopped roughly 2mm from the top and screwed in the bleed screw.

I noticed there was only 2 o-rings for each shock. I put one on the top of the shock's bottom threads and one on the bottom of the shock's top threads. I didn't see an o-ring for inside the shock cap itself, then again the instructions didn't show one.

I've followed numerous Youtube videos of the TLR factory racers rebuilding their shocks with no luck. The videos helped on my 22 3.0 but for some reason the same tricks are working on my 22-4 2.0.

Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
My take on this is no matter what you do you're never going to get all the air outta the shock. TLR's X-rings and machined internals are really good so there is not much friction, especially when brand new. With both of these factors, the shock shaft is going contract back into the shock body some. Nothing really you can do about it. The main thing is to get the rebound right in my opinion.
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Old 07-19-2016, 08:22 PM   #330
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HeyFrank, what's a good baseline gearing for 13.5 on a large indoor high bite track?
As per Jake Thayer/TLR at OCRC Raceway, 84/26.

I run it and it's fast and safe for me, 1 fan for the motor.
R1wurks 13.5 and fan taped to chassis.
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