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Originally Posted by thecman26
(Post 14694680)
B5,B5M, & B4.2 manual says which side to put it on. I am pretty sure they were designed to be places on a specific side, too bad there's no AE design team support on here. I am sure every other AE manual I have seen also says which side it should be on. But neither here nor there... I haven't decided to go rogue and test out what would happen if I was a rebel and put it on the other side...
B4 manual says screw head on the spur gear side. b4.1/t4.1 manuals don't say which side to put the head of the diff screw. SC10FT manual doesn't say which side... SC10.2 manual says spur gear side...
Originally Posted by kdub
(Post 14695409)
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. |
Anyone got recent opinion on the sway bars? Looking at a variety of setups for carpet, i don't really see them being used. I was thinking of picking them up right away but at $32 for a full set I was curious how much people are getting out of them.
Outside of that, for conditions where you have a very small tight track with some 180s, would you run the gullwing b6 style front arms or the b6d flat arms, assume high traction carpet. Reason I ask is I was told by someone that the b6 style arms while being stated for more on power steering were for more flowing type surface. So I wanted to confirm as I have both types here but it may affect my decision on what tower setup for the front to go with and hence, which arm type I may stick more with. Rears I think I'll just go with the long tower setup. |
I'm not an engineer, and never claimed to be, but when looking at how a ball diff functions...I can't see how it would matter which way you put it in:confused:
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.I can't see how it would matter which way you put it in and loosening the screw, on the left requires me to use my left hand or turn the car around(schumacher diffs go in both ways depending on the belt offset), never seen them come loose from being on the left. If you a southpaw put it on the left. |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 14695632)
Anyone got recent opinion on the sway bars? Looking at a variety of setups for carpet, i don't really see them being used.
Why would you need a sway bar for oval racing I have no idea.:confused: |
Associated B6 or Kyosho RB6 for carpet/Astro please?
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Originally Posted by lynx75
(Post 14695680)
Associated B6 or Kyosho RB6 for carpet/Astro please?
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I have an xb2 CE, b6, and rb6.6 laydown.
For high bite clay, rb6.6 all the way although needs a diet . Love all 3 cars for different reasons though ...B6 is the most stable and planted, and soaks ups the bumps and large jumps. Like it best for bigger tracks. Easiest of the 3 to drive. I have the most consistent lap times at my level with the b6 Can't answer the astro question but the higher the bite the more I appreciate the rb6.6 as its the most aggressive.
Originally Posted by lynx75
(Post 14695680)
Associated B6 or Kyosho RB6 for carpet/Astro please?
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Ok need help. The tapered machine shock pistons . Which side is up?
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typically taper up for rough track and down for smooth
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Originally Posted by mdwaeracer
(Post 14695934)
Ok need help. The tapered machine shock pistons . Which side is up?
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Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 14695632)
Anyone got recent opinion on the sway bars? Looking at a variety of setups for carpet, i don't really see them being used. I was thinking of picking them up right away but at $32 for a full set I was curious how much people are getting out of them.
Outside of that, for conditions where you have a very small tight track with some 180s, would you run the gullwing b6 style front arms or the b6d flat arms, assume high traction carpet. Reason I ask is I was told by someone that the b6 style arms while being stated for more on power steering were for more flowing type surface. So I wanted to confirm as I have both types here but it may affect my decision on what tower setup for the front to go with and hence, which arm type I may stick more with. Rears I think I'll just go with the long tower setup. |
Speaking of eos... does anyone have rivkins setup for eos? I know cavalieri's has been posted
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Rivkins setup look to be the same.
The last eos didn't look like bars were used. I supply Jasper Rasmussen with graphics, he said the trend is to take some weight off the front end (stock bulkhead, or aluminum) and longer shock stroke, along with 15-16 mm ride height. It works like a champ on smooth high bite carpet, that's with no roll bars |
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