If he was averaging at 16 seconds and lower then he definitely needs to move up.

Don't have a b6. (Yet?)

Everyone getting equal traction with the standup as the b5m WITHOUT a ton of mods or compensating setup changes? Thx all

I have the B6D. Once its moving the traction is better than the B5m but out of some slow corners on a slippery track it does have less traction. A few small setup changes can easily bring this back so really depends on your track and driving style.

I was a point and shoot driver but learning to be smoother and this buggy really rewards you when you are.

Just stick to your Xray Jason. Your car is already fast enough. The B6 is really finicky when it comes to track condition. It's faster in the corner than the B5M that's for sure if the track has tons of traction. The B5M is more forgiving.

I have no idea what his times were, I knew I blew out and he won

Battery Hold Down
 

Who makes/sells a carbon battery hold down BESIDES Raw Speed, Schelle or Bezerk?

Thx! I'm trying to gauge if the car gives up a little traction in favor of more corner speed and tight handling. B6d I drove once reminded me of my X-ray before tuning it. My experience with the standup X-ray xb2 was that it was like driving a buggy in between my b5m and lay down Xb2 traction-wise. Felt like I gave up some grip for phenomenal handling. If it turns out the b6 gives up no grip for all the positives I think I'll have to get one....

That sounds like a tire or setup issue. If you're not running the narrow rear pivot that could be why the rear endon your b6 has good corner speed and a little too free in some conditions.
Using the alum D block and the 1 insert pointed inward gives the same width pivot as the b5

are you saying by getting the alum d block the B6 will stay consistent with phenomenal traction even when the track changes from high grip to dry? Right now.. My B6 is amazing when there is tons of traction at the track.... But when it dries a little bit my rear end breaks lose in the corner when I gun the throttle exiting corners.

He's saying that if you get the aluminum D block, you can adjust the pivot width to be the same as the B5m. Do this by using the 1 deg inserts pointing inward in both the C and D blocks. This gives the same 3/1 setup as the kit, but with a narrower pivot width.

An aftermarket option for shock towers:

http://www.redrc.net/2016/08/x-facto...-shock-towers/

http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...B6Towers-1.jpg
http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...Towers-2-1.jpg
http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...B6Towers-3.jpg
http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...B6Towers-4.jpg

Nobody that I have seen / heard of.

The vrp weights are also reversible, so if you don't like the milled look, flip it for a brushed aluminum look. Will have blue anodized weights as well!

Can somebody point me to someplace I can try to learn about anti squat and roll centers? The B6D has a lot of adjustments in this area, but the manual doesn't really get into much detail about what changes you can expect by moving the pills in the C block. (Quite honestly the manual confuses the heck out of me here.)

Another newbie question about chassis weights. I see Associated has weighted C blocks which I can assume provides more rear grip. Is the purpose of the chassis weights to put more weight up front and provide a more "balanced" car?

The purpose of the chassis weights is to fine tune to your liking. Certain surfaces like a heavier car, like carpet racing.