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Old 06-09-2017, 06:26 AM
  #511  
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Originally Posted by Roadburn
I recently picked up another center diff and was surprised they removed that washer. I figured if anything that washer helped protect the o-ring and create a better seal. If your hearing a crunching sound check your diff and pinion, you may have some wear. Theres some great videos on youtube on how to shim a diff.

Anyone having problems with bending shock shafts? Just wondering if its a material issue with Associated, I'm seeing allot of it this season.
Lots of bent shock shafts on the truggy and buggy. The chrome shafts help a bit. I've just switched to the delrin shaft guides too which should help some too. At least they have on other platforms I've used them in.
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Old 06-10-2017, 06:06 AM
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Ty guys, now I know it's not just me, I'll have to try the chrome ones
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Old 06-11-2017, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tom73
Built my truggy per manual with updated diffs. I'm getting a crunching sound under hard acceleration only. The pinion lash in the diffs feels tight. It is only under hard acceleration and not while braking. Any ideas? There are no washers between the diff case and the pin that holds the axle under the sun gears but that is what the book showed. They seem to have a lot of slop.
Hey Tom I was redoing my diffs today and I think I figured out why they took out that large washer underneath the sun gear. After I found this I spoke to some of my buddies who also run Associated and they also on occasion have been finding the same thing. That large washer has a tendency to cone, I don't know if you can see it in this pic. After they cone do not use them, you can ruin your diff gears. So far I don't see a difference with out the washer.
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:34 PM
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On AE's site there is a supplemental diff instructions. The build is completely different!
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Old 06-13-2017, 07:44 PM
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I went back and reshimmed the diffs. I'll see if that solves the problem. The front diff took an additional 2 shims to take up some play. Thanks all for the suggestions.
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Old 06-13-2017, 09:05 PM
  #516  
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What size kv should I run in this truggy. Will be pairing with a hobbywing XR8 ESC. Also looking to stay Hobbywing if possible.
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Old 06-14-2017, 04:28 AM
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I run a 2250 but you definitely don't need that much motor. The 2000kv will be plenty. Hell my wife is running a 1900kv buggy motor in her T3e.
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Old 06-14-2017, 04:56 AM
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2000kv truggy motor for me and so far it's been plenty of power/running cool
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Old 06-14-2017, 03:30 PM
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I realized today that my EPA was at 90% and I wasn't hitting WOT so I'd imagine the 2000kv is probably better fit.
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Old 06-15-2017, 03:00 PM
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I can't post a for sale ad for some reason but I have a brand new in box kit RC8T3E if anyone is interested. Pm me $375 shipped
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Old 06-15-2017, 04:43 PM
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2250 here, you can always dial it back
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Old 06-16-2017, 04:20 AM
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So lately I've found that the closer to box settings the truck gets the better it is. Is that the general consensus? The only changes I've made were 10/7/7 in the diffs and 40# in the front with yellow spring and 35 in the rear with a blue spring. I think now I need to take a bit of roll out of it.
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:44 AM
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I'll be building up a T3E tomorrow. I'll post a setup once I get it on the track. Building with New Diffs/HTC Gears. Tekin RX8 Gen3/1900.
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Old 06-17-2017, 06:44 AM
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what would 30,000 diff fluid in the middle do to the truck more wheel spin? compared to 10,000?
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Old 06-17-2017, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottZ
what would 30,000 diff fluid in the middle do to the truck more wheel spin? compared to 10,000?
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