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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 07-20-2018, 11:48 AM
  #5686  
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Originally Posted by bd007
I thought clay track should use dirt edition, but why I was told to use carpet edition and bold tires!?!
Instead of thinking in terms of surface think in terms of traction level. Dirt chassis for low to medium grip and the Carpet chassis for medium to high grip.
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Old 07-20-2018, 12:55 PM
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just notice that the gearing is a bit higher than I was seeing.. Attention to detail...thanks for the advice guys
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Old 07-22-2018, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Chaz955i
Instead of thinking in terms of surface think in terms of traction level. Dirt chassis for low to medium grip and the Carpet chassis for medium to high grip.
ok now most buggies are mid engined. I thought rear motor get more grip? Also mid engine also divided into lay down and not lay down? Which one is for what traction?
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Old 07-23-2018, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by bd007


ok now most buggies are mid engined. I thought rear motor get more grip? Also mid engine also divided into lay down and not lay down? Which one is for what traction?
There are no current XB2 cars that come from the factory with rear motor. The dirt car XB2D (for low to med grip) comes with standup trans. The XB2C (medium to high traction) comes with a laydown.
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Old 07-23-2018, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Chaz955i
There are no current XB2 cars that come from the factory with rear motor. The dirt car XB2D (for low to med grip) comes with standup trans. The XB2C (medium to high traction) comes with a laydown.
Which XB2 are you running at Racink? Or are you running something different there?
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Old 07-23-2018, 06:24 PM
  #5691  
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Originally Posted by lowdoughracer
Which XB2 are you running at Racink? Or are you running something different there?
XB2D 2017
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:04 PM
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What about the settings? 2wd buggy settings is more forgiving compare to onroad touring cars?
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Old 07-24-2018, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by bd007
What about the settings? 2wd buggy settings is more forgiving compare to onroad touring cars?
After having driven TC almost exclusively for the past 9 or so years I think this is a fair assumption. There are exceptions. I've seen some guys that are pretty fast with poorly maintained and set up cars but for the most part in TC the car has to be set up pretty well to get around the track decently. I don't think the buggys, especially on low grip are quite as sensitive to chassis tweak or a less than optimal setup as a TC. If you whack a board with a TC and the camber is asymmetric or the chassis tweaks, it is normally very noticable. Rarely have I seen anyone check camber with more than a cheap RPM gauge against and out-of- true wheel in off-road. Many just "eye it up" and their cars seem to drive fine. On carpet that difference shrinks, especially if it is high bite. If you are going for wins in either class attention to detail with regard to setup will be more important.

Last edited by Chaz955i; 07-24-2018 at 05:05 AM. Reason: clarity
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:15 AM
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Default 2014 2W buggy setup on loose low grip

hey guys,

i am running the old 2w saddle pack buggy on a loose low grip track and fighting with my buggy. this is the problem. when i try and go around a hair pin or corner my back end just snaps and i loose the back end. this is what i have tried. i have gone down to 2k (as per manual) in the rear diff.i have loosed the center spur and i dont want to loosen any more. can i play with the shocks or roll center ? thanks.
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by fliedlice
hey guys,

i am running the old 2w saddle pack buggy on a loose low grip track and fighting with my buggy. this is the problem. when i try and go around a hair pin or corner my back end just snaps and i loose the back end. this is what i have tried. i have gone down to 2k (as per manual) in the rear diff.i have loosed the center spur and i dont want to loosen any more. can i play with the shocks or roll center ? thanks.
Dirt or astro?
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:54 AM
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oh sorry dirt/clay

Originally Posted by symmetricon
Dirt or astro?
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Old 07-24-2018, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Chaz955i
XB2D 2017
I am looking at starting racing at Racink eventually, and was looking at the spec buggy class. What aftermarket parts would you suggest to make a XB2D'17 work well there, and what springs/oils/all of that are you usually bringing with you to adjust to a normal race day? I really appreciate the help!
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by lowdoughracer
I am looking at starting racing at Racink eventually, and was looking at the spec buggy class. What aftermarket parts would you suggest to make a XB2D'17 work well there, and what springs/oils/all of that are you usually bringing with you to adjust to a normal race day? I really appreciate the help!
I'm running all kit parts, including springs. Racink is very low traction while being bumpy so it took a little time to find a setup that worked for me as the kit setup still seemed geared to a surface with higher overall traction.. Generally, I'll run really light damping F&R to help the car follow the bumps and a little higher roll center and ride height to help it drive the tire into the track rather than the body roll just getting sucked up in suspension travel. Also, took out 1 degree of rear toe and am running the rear inside pins flat so no anti-squat.

Sop by and say "Hi" the next time you are at the track. You are more than welcome to check the car out. Right now the only person running XRay at the track so I'm easy to spot.
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:31 AM
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If I were to run on a low bite surface, the first thing I'd get would be the new dirt conversion rear end. The new ball diff with the long rear a arms should add stability and grip.
https://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pr...96&kategoria=0
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Old 07-24-2018, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Chaz955i
I'm running all kit parts, including springs. Racink is very low traction while being bumpy so it took a little time to find a setup that worked for me as the kit setup still seemed geared to a surface with higher overall traction.. Generally, I'll run really light damping F&R to help the car follow the bumps and a little higher roll center and ride height to help it drive the tire into the track rather than the body roll just getting sucked up in suspension travel. Also, took out 1 degree of rear toe and am running the rear inside pins flat so no anti-squat.

Sop by and say "Hi" the next time you are at the track. You are more than welcome to check the car out. Right now the only person running XRay at the track so I'm easy to spot.
I will have to do that! I appreciate it. Just trying to do my research before I start racing. I am completely new to off road, but have raced carpet oval before. So on one hand I think I might better off starting in the spec Slash class to learn all of the basics well, but on the other hand, I would like to think I have enough experience to get a buggy around the track. And that is the ultimate goal for where I'd like to end up. I've always liked the Xray on road cars and I love how durable they are.
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