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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 02-15-2018, 11:03 AM
  #5461  
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Originally Posted by SlipDiff
Hi symmetricon thanks for the help. ATM im running on smooth high bite carpet without brass kickup or a sway bar. I’ve been leaning toward getting the sway bar but have been avoiding adding the extra weight of the brass since running 17.5 class.
I don't want to say its absolutely necessary but the brass kickup and rear swaybar are IMO integral to proper setup on high bite carpet to get the most out of the car. I was running my 17 for a while with nor brass kickup and had to run the 1.3mm rear swaybar to get it to turn. Now on my 18 I run the front brass kickup and a 1.0 rear swaybar... FYI my car is at 1602 grams.

Last edited by symmetricon; 02-16-2018 at 06:00 AM.
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
I don't want to say its absolutely necessary but the barss kickup and rear swaybar are IMO integral to proper setup on high bite carpet to get the most out of the car. I was running my 17 for a while with nor brass kickup and had to run the 1.3mm rear swaybar to get it to turn. No on my 18 I run the front brass kickup and a 1.0 rear swaybar... FYI my car is at 1602 grams.
Your help is much appreciated thank you symmetricon
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Old 02-16-2018, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by SlipDiff
Your help is much appreciated thank you symmetricon
You're welcome. If you have't tried this setup, I'd highly recommend it as a starting place for setup.

Xray XB2'18 - Bruno Coelho - EOS - Warsaw - 20-22.10.2017
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Old 02-16-2018, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
You're welcome. If you have't tried this setup, I'd highly recommend it as a starting place for setup.

Xray XB2'18 - Bruno Coelho - EOS - Warsaw - 20-22.10.2017
Ok great I def will give it a try, thanks again
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:03 AM
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Guys? Is this how a healthy ball dif looks inside? It's from a guy that ran ridiculously tight slipper and ball diff on carpet. Diff barked af, but Im not sure how these things looks when new. There's no grease in it.


https://imgur.com/a/rRjtZ

Last edited by tekayi; 02-18-2018 at 11:29 AM. Reason: Chaning img source
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:12 AM
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That diff is toasted!!
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:32 AM
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Thanks for answering, it looks destroyed, but I ve never used ball diff before. So guys, this is what your ball diif looks like after just one carpet race with messed up setup :-D

https://imgur.com/a/4gz1K
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Old 02-18-2018, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by tekayi
Thanks for answering, it looks destroyed, but I ve never used ball diff before. So guys, this is what your ball diif looks like after just one carpet race with messed up setup :-D

https://imgur.com/a/4gz1K
It would've lived a little longer if it would've been greased.
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Old 02-18-2018, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dgdcustoms
It would've lived a little longer if it would've been greased.
Friend says it's from brand new kit like a week old and that the manual says the diff is ready to race and comes pre-assembled. So everyone, really re-assemble and grease your ball diff before assembling the car.
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Old 02-18-2018, 03:28 PM
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Always check anything that comes assembled. Lots of posts about the diff not coming with grease. Can never be too sure.
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Old 02-18-2018, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by tekayi
Thanks for answering, it looks destroyed, but I ve never used ball diff before. So guys, this is what your ball diif looks like after just one carpet race with messed up setup :-D

https://imgur.com/a/4gz1K
Why are you using a ball diff on carpet anyways? Ball diffs are very tricky to get right and if not used properly they will damage themselves. As soon as it started to bark, it's time to get it apart and keep it from getting damaged. If you have any questions about anything on your car please don't hesitate to ask. There are a few of the team drivers that monitor this thread and are more than willing to help.
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Pville Stig
Why are you using a ball diff on carpet anyways? Ball diffs are very tricky to get right and if not used properly they will damage themselves. As soon as it started to bark, it's time to get it apart and keep it from getting damaged. If you have any questions about anything on your car please don't hesitate to ask. There are a few of the team drivers that monitor this thread and are more than willing to help.
It's not from my car, I have carpet edition with gear diff. But a lot of guys here try to race ball diff on carpet, because the dirt kit from 2016 is cheap, like $280. They know they shouldn't do it, but they want to have an Xray car.
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Old 02-19-2018, 11:36 AM
  #5473  
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Originally Posted by tekayi
It's not from my car, I have carpet edition with gear diff. But a lot of guys here try to race ball diff on carpet, because the dirt kit from 2016 is cheap, like $280. They know they shouldn't do it, but they want to have an Xray car.
$75 on a new diff will put them right at the same cost of a new carpet car.
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Old 02-20-2018, 04:10 AM
  #5474  
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Originally Posted by Pville Stig
Why are you using a ball diff on carpet anyways? Ball diffs are very tricky to get right and if not used properly they will damage themselves. As soon as it started to bark, it's time to get it apart and keep it from getting damaged. If you have any questions about anything on your car please don't hesitate to ask. There are a few of the team drivers that monitor this thread and are more than willing to help.
Ball diffs used on carpet in on-road for decades. May not be the best application for a 2wd buggy but if they are set correctly, which isn't difficult they work fine and don't just self-destruct. The XRay manual has good instructions on how to adjust the diff. If people ignore the procedure the issue is with them, not the type of diff. If it starts to bark, it typically needs adjusted, not completely torn down.
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Old 02-20-2018, 05:18 AM
  #5475  
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Originally Posted by EricW
$75 on a new diff will put them right at the same cost of a new carpet car.
Unfortunately, its more complex. Here where I live, XB2C costs $510 and with average salary +- $750/mo every penny counts.
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