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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 11-26-2017, 10:54 AM
  #5251  
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Originally Posted by JAE
I see a lot of X-ray drivers not using sway bars. On hi grip carpet are sway bars ideal? Front and rear? Thx
I'm using rear sway bars on my 18, running it on high grip astro. Car is very good, I'll try it without the sway bars and report back here with the difference.
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Old 11-26-2017, 11:02 AM
  #5252  
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Originally Posted by blwaz23
What aluminum servo horn is everyone using to get the same throw and angle of the link as with the original stock plastic one?
I think that exotek makes one that’s the right size
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Old 11-26-2017, 11:29 AM
  #5253  
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If you're running on hi grip office carpet, where rea you're trying to take away traction is there a benefit to buying the 18 vs a good deal on a 17? Thx


Originally Posted by EricW
I'm using rear sway bars on my 18, running it on high grip astro. Car is very good, I'll try it without the sway bars and report back here with the difference.
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Old 11-26-2017, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by JAE
If you're running on hi grip office carpet, where rea you're trying to take away traction is there a benefit to buying the 18 vs a good deal on a 17? Thx
The 18 has more flex in the rear of the chassis which gives better grip. My 17 was good on the same track but I had some trouble with the inside rear wheel lifting up in tight turns, I'm sure I could have remedied that with some setup changes though. However, the 18 with the box setup and a brass front bulkhead head is better than my 17 ever was.

What kind of price are you talking about on a 17? Is it new? If you're able to part ways with the $375 price tag on the 18 I'd get the 18.
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Old 11-27-2017, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by JAE
I see a lot of X-ray drivers not using sway bars. On hi grip carpet are sway bars ideal? Front and rear? Thx
Rear sway bar all the way on high bite carpet... run the swaybar with the front brass kickup, 2 dot springs f/r, 1 deg rear toe and raise the roll center in the rear at the hing pin( run them in the upper most setting), then the car is dialed. No front sway bar needed.
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Last edited by symmetricon; 11-28-2017 at 06:54 AM.
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Old 11-27-2017, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
Rear sway bar all the way on high bite carpet... run the swaybar with the front brass kickup, 2 dot springs f/r, zero rear toe and raise the roll center in the rear at the hing pin( run them in the upper most setting), then the car is dialed. No front sway bar needed.
how did you get zero rear toe? The lowest setting is 1*, isn't it?
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Old 11-28-2017, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by shark2288
how did you get zero rear toe? The lowest setting is 1*, isn't it?
Ooops, you are right, my bad... I revised my statement.
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Old 12-01-2017, 03:20 AM
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Hey guys! I'm thinking about retiring my old trusted AE B5M, and getting a new car. I've been offered a good deal if I switch over to an Xray XB2, but I don't really know which version would fit my needs better.

The problem is that in the summertime we "race" on low grip clay, and for winter it's carpet. So would I be better off getting a XB2 2017 dirt edition and a gear diff for it, or a XB2 2018 CE and trying to fit a ball diff for the summer?

Getting both cars isn't a possibility. If it helps, I'm just racing for fun with friends, so things don't need to be really hard core, if you know what I mean.

Thanks for your thoughts!
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Old 12-01-2017, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Perimeruna
Hey guys! I'm thinking about retiring my old trusted AE B5M, and getting a new car. I've been offered a good deal if I switch over to an Xray XB2, but I don't really know which version would fit my needs better.

The problem is that in the summertime we "race" on low grip clay, and for winter it's carpet. So would I be better off getting a XB2 2017 dirt edition and a gear diff for it, or a XB2 2018 CE and trying to fit a ball diff for the summer?

Getting both cars isn't a possibility. If it helps, I'm just racing for fun with friends, so things don't need to be really hard core, if you know what I mean.

Thanks for your thoughts!
I'd get the XB2 18CE for sure, get a ball diff and driveshafts with the 3mm pin that match the ball diff outdrives. The new narrow hangers on the 18 CE allow the car much more rear traction. With proper setup you shouldn't have issue getting hooked on clay.
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Old 12-01-2017, 07:31 AM
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I have not seen a definite answer for which wheel hexes will work to use B6 front/rear wheels on the new 18CE. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 12-01-2017, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Perimeruna
Hey guys! I'm thinking about retiring my old trusted AE B5M, and getting a new car. I've been offered a good deal if I switch over to an Xray XB2, but I don't really know which version would fit my needs better.

The problem is that in the summertime we "race" on low grip clay, and for winter it's carpet. So would I be better off getting a XB2 2017 dirt edition and a gear diff for it, or a XB2 2018 CE and trying to fit a ball diff for the summer?

Getting both cars isn't a possibility. If it helps, I'm just racing for fun with friends, so things don't need to be really hard core, if you know what I mean.

Thanks for your thoughts!
I would just stay with the CE whether you decide on the 17 or 18. That just comes down to your budget really or what the good deal by switching is. Since you said you're only fun racing with friends I'd say the 17. While the 18 is a better car the 17 is no slouch and can be had for half the price if you pick up a used roller and will usually have upgrades. Also the 17 currently has both diffs available if you decide you need a ball. I will note that I have both ball and gear diffs for mine and now I only run the gear on indoor clay and just play with oil weights when traction is down. Just a little food for thought.
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Old 12-02-2017, 12:55 AM
  #5262  
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Thanks for the insight guys, much appreciated! If you don't mind me picking your brain, what would the main parts be that you'd change to make the 2018 CE more suitable for low grip dirt?

If I make the jump, it would be for a brand new kit, and the price is the same for the 2017 DE and 2018 CE, so it seems for having to pick one, the 2018 would indeed give more bang for the buck. Also, the CE would be good to go from the box, as it's carpet season at the moment, and will be for ~4 months, so I'd have plenty of time to asses the situation and get the parts needed for outdoor low grip clay.

Thanks again guys!
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Old 12-02-2017, 07:06 AM
  #5263  
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Originally Posted by tkge
I have not seen a definite answer for which wheel hexes will work to use B6 front/rear wheels on the new 18CE. Any help would be appreciated.
You can narrow the front hexes 1step to run ae wheels in the front. As far as the rear goes, the ae will be pretty narrow. Since the car comes with the widest hexes X-ray has, there's really no way of running them at the stock track width.
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Old 12-02-2017, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Perimeruna
Thanks for the insight guys, much appreciated! If you don't mind me picking your brain, what would the main parts be that you'd change to make the 2018 CE more suitable for low grip dirt?

If I make the jump, it would be for a brand new kit, and the price is the same for the 2017 DE and 2018 CE, so it seems for having to pick one, the 2018 would indeed give more bang for the buck. Also, the CE would be good to go from the box, as it's carpet season at the moment, and will be for ~4 months, so I'd have plenty of time to asses the situation and get the parts needed for outdoor low grip clay.

Thanks again guys!
If the right tires and setup changes aren’t enough you’d probably want the de trans and ball diff. When traction is down for me and a softer shock package isn’t enough, I put the medium arms on back, take out a bunch of the flex screws, move the servo back a notch or two, and lighten up the diff oil.
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:30 AM
  #5265  
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Originally Posted by windycityblues
If the right tires and setup changes aren’t enough you’d probably want the de trans and ball diff. When traction is down for me and a softer shock package isn’t enough, I put the medium arms on back, take out a bunch of the flex screws, move the servo back a notch or two, and lighten up the diff oil.
Thanks for the advice, I pulled the trigger on a new 2018 CE kit, can't wait to get my hands on it!
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