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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 11-20-2016, 02:14 PM
  #4051  
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Originally Posted by Yodah
Seen some pretty bad crashes.... hitting walls at the end of straights....
Cartwheeling down the straight...
Nothing broke....
This is good to hear. What kind of shims do I need for the screws that hold the hinge pins in place. The screw itself doesn't seem to have a big enough head
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Old 11-20-2016, 02:38 PM
  #4052  
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If the car is feeling good and all you want is on power steering what would you change,thinking of limiting front shocks right way or not???
This is on carpet quite smooth
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Old 11-20-2016, 02:41 PM
  #4053  
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Originally Posted by Quietman
If the car is feeling good and all you want is on power steering what would you change,thinking of limiting front shocks right way or not???
I am getting the 0 slot steering blocks, drove one with those and car on power steering is way better... it was about a night a day difference to me
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Old 11-20-2016, 06:10 PM
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Does xray offer the dirt edition transmission by itself?
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Old 11-21-2016, 06:56 AM
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So does anyone have any insight on the switch from 81T to 84T spur gear from the '16 to '17 car. Is it related to the 3 gear tranny change?
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Old 11-21-2016, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Yodah
So does anyone have any insight on the switch from 81T to 84T spur gear from the '16 to '17 car. Is it related to the 3 gear tranny change?
i was wondering this as well, I'm not sure if the internal gear ratio changed enough to go 4T bigger on the spur. I use 21 / 81 with a 6.5t motor in the 17 car with the 3 gear and it seems to be a good gearing ratio, I feel like going up to 84T with the 21T pinion would make it too snappy down low and slow top speed.

However, I have had great success with the 3 gear over the 4 gear on med-high bite clay. the car brakes better and carries way more speed in the corners.

I did get the brass Exotek RF hanger and the beefy Exotek RR hanger to add some weight to the rear of the car - that helped a bit.
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:11 AM
  #4057  
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Originally Posted by lyons238
i was wondering this as well, I'm not sure if the internal gear ratio changed enough to go 4T bigger on the spur. I use 21 / 81 with a 6.5t motor in the 17 car with the 3 gear and it seems to be a good gearing ratio, I feel like going up to 84T with the 21T pinion would make it too snappy down low and slow top speed.

However, I have had great success with the 3 gear over the 4 gear on med-high bite clay. the car brakes better and carries way more speed in the corners.

I did get the brass Exotek RF hanger and the beefy Exotek RR hanger to add some weight to the rear of the car - that helped a bit.
Internal gear ratio is the same on all XB2 and XT2 versions.

They all use the same diff gear and top shaft.

Number and size of idler gears do not affect the gear ratio.

84 spur moves the motor a bit forward for better weight balance on high grip carpet.

More steering and more responsive.

Bent
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:47 AM
  #4058  
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For you stock buggy guys, here is a pretty balanced setup from this past weekend, cold track, high grip.. clay..

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
For you stock buggy guys, here is a pretty balanced setup from this past weekend, cold track, high grip.. clay..

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
Is this a DE or CE?
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:53 AM
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This is my 16 CE, with medium plastics, converted to 17 3 gear tranny with xray new 1.6, 1.7 shock pistons.
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Old 11-21-2016, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Quietman
If the car is feeling good and all you want is on power steering what would you change,thinking of limiting front shocks right way or not???
This is on carpet quite smooth
Little thicker rear diff fluid will help..
Possibly a little me anti squat
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Old 11-21-2016, 01:12 PM
  #4062  
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Originally Posted by hyperdive08
Little thicker rear diff fluid will help..
Possibly a little me anti squat
Went from 3000 to 7000 was better but so used to onroad I like steering,it's ok just wanted what people would do if they really wanted more
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Old 11-22-2016, 02:45 AM
  #4063  
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thought thicker diff would push straighter, until grip limit is reached, in which case it's bye-bye?
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Old 11-22-2016, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
can someone please explain the physics behind it? It should theoretically be harder to lay the power down with MM3 than MM4 (that's why MM4 was the starting point for bespoke MM cars, to help with rear traction vs. MM3). I can see MM3 helping off power to not lose the rear, though.

Really curious to see how it's gonna feel like... next time I can race it is in 3wks
any internet engineers out there?!?
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Old 11-22-2016, 04:57 AM
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4-gear = more weight transfer front to rear
3-gear = less weight transfer, flatter car
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