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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 06-02-2016, 10:10 AM
  #3151  
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Originally Posted by walter white
two different answers. now im really confused. I wish xray had a simpler chart to show how to get what. I appreciate the replies though.
The manual chart shows everything you want.. shows everything in 1* incriments.. the half degrees.. are the same thing.. just half..

on the pills.. moving the hole.. in and out.. will affect toe.. up and down.. will affect antisquat.. the offset pills.. affect both..
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by JAE
What effect does moving the rear shock inward on the tower have? Thx
More initial steering entering corner and more mid corner grip.
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:25 PM
  #3153  
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Thx - so what's the downside - less on power steering?
Originally Posted by LAGuy
More initial steering entering corner and more mid corner grip.
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Old 06-03-2016, 05:23 AM
  #3154  
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Originally Posted by JAE
Thx - so what's the downside - less on power steering?
Some might say it make the car more twitchy, but if you like a faster reacting car its a good thing.
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Old 06-03-2016, 06:31 AM
  #3155  
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Originally Posted by punkracer24
I got a cheap pair of needle nose pliers and dremeled them down. The pair they have at the checkout register at ace hardware. only like $3
Originally Posted by B00t13g
Rca probably has them. I bought a cheap set from autozone and they work as well.
thanks guys. will check this out.
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JAE
Thx - so what's the downside - less on power steering?
When adjusting your car, you always have to think in terms of robbing Peter to pay Paul. In a perfectly setup car, you'd have a nice balance between grip and steering. You may also have a car that is setup to handle 90% of a tracks corners, but not do well in the others. It's always a balance.

When thinking about corners, there are always three parts to consider, corner entry, mid-corner & corner exit.

With that being said, when you add initial steering on corner entry, you are taking away rear grip on entry. More mid corner grip equals less mid corner steering.

Plus you have to consider what Symmetricon posted, sometimes making the car more comfortable to drive, less twitchy, would be faster overall for your driving style.
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by JAE
Thx - so what's the downside - less on power steering?
Forgot to answer your question Front & Rear shock tower positions and suspension arm shock positions will not have a significant amount of impact on on-power steering. Those are mostly other adjustments (weight transfer).

Shock position will mainly determine how the car handles bumps, corner steering (all 3 sections), faster or slower steering response, corner grip (all 3 sections) including side bite & car stability.
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Old 06-03-2016, 11:26 PM
  #3158  
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Hands down the best my buggy has ever been. I'm using kit Pistons drilled out and pro spec oil. DE on high bite clay, track is medium sized with a variety of features. Mostly smooth surface.
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
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Old 06-03-2016, 11:46 PM
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This is all very helpful- thanks! I'm noticing this going from my tight high bite small track, to a large medium bite track. My setup is geared towards the tight, small track with a ton of entry steering. Take it to the big track and its lazy coming out of corners at high speed. Feel like I need 2 cars. Time is limited... =LAGuy;14554305]Forgot to answer your question Front & Rear shock tower positions and suspension arm shock positions will not have a significant amount of impact on on-power steering. Those are mostly other adjustments (weight transfer).

Shock position will mainly determine how the car handles bumps, corner steering (all 3 sections), faster or slower steering response, corner grip (all 3 sections) including side bite & car stability.[/QUOTE]
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Old 06-05-2016, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
Hands down the best my buggy has ever been. I'm using kit Pistons drilled out and pro spec oil. DE on high bite clay, track is medium sized with a variety of features. Mostly smooth surface.
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
when I drove your car it was fast and easy to drive for sure. I'll be putting your setup on mine soon.
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Old 06-05-2016, 05:54 PM
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Anyone for rear motor? Not my thread but thought it was interesting.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-complete.html
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Old 06-05-2016, 07:52 PM
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Oops

Last edited by English365; 06-06-2016 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 06-05-2016, 09:08 PM
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Default Aluminum rear roll center holder: dirt edition

Anyone using these for the de? How about carpet? I'm only finding ones labled for carpet edition but don't know if there are any geometric differences. Exotek makes one too.

My track is super high bite clay and I added a 1mm shim in addition to the 2mm conical shim to help with traction rolling. I didn't realize I needed a 10mm ball end vs stock 8mm to prevent stripping. In any event, I've also read the aluminum rear roll center holder requires an additional 2mm shims as it is thinner.

Anyone have any experience with these either Xray or exotek? And are they interchangeable between de and CE? Thx
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Old 06-05-2016, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by JAE
Anyone using these for the de? How about carpet? I'm only finding ones labled for carpet edition but don't know if there are any geometric differences. Exotek makes one too.

My track is super high bite clay and I added a 1mm shim in addition to the 2mm conical shim to help with traction rolling. I didn't realize I needed a 10mm ball end vs stock 8mm to prevent stripping. In any event, I've also read the aluminum rear roll center holder requires an additional 2mm shims as it is thinner.

Anyone have any experience with these either Xray or exotek? And are they interchangeable between de and CE? Thx
Just do it yourself and find out asking everybody for every single thingy gets annoying. Just saying.
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Old 06-05-2016, 11:14 PM
  #3165  
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For anyone wondering about the roll center Bent mentioned the aluminum roll center is in fact only for the carpet edition. The roll centers are not interchangeable and do have different geometries. Hope this helps someone.
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