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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 05-13-2016, 07:31 AM
  #3046  
JAE
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I bought a used b5m once where this happened. I will check the screws, hub bearings and diff case. Knock on wood it's one of those. Hopefully not the top shaft. If so I'm waiting for the schelle top shaft and slipper clutch that's being made.

Lyons238- did this happen to you with the xb2? Which screws were too tight?

Originally Posted by lyons238
loosen the screws holding it together!!!

its not the bearings, however since you may have ran it too tight and binding you may have ruined the bearings. i replace mine with the stock bearings from amain.

i learned this lesson myself both with the XB4 and XB2, anything like the transmission keep just snug. the xray plastics are good, they will stay tight even at just snug pressure, do not over tighten.
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Old 05-13-2016, 09:15 AM
  #3047  
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Loosened gearbox screws, diff case. Checked axle hubs spin freely. Still bound. Could a super heavy diff weight cause this? I was thinking not as I've spun others carpet editions and silky smooth. Can't figure this out
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Old 05-13-2016, 10:17 AM
  #3048  
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did you check just the gear box spin with drive shafts not in diff out drives? did the gear box spin freely?

i rebuilt my diff last week and one of my outdrive bearings was going bad, to the point it was appearing to lock and allowing the outdrive at times to spin in the bearing inner race.

if the gear box still is binding, check the gearbox for correct idler gear shimming and orientation per the instructions. there was a post back about a driver who had to correct this, his car was semi locking and hooking in the rear at random. idler gears teeth are not cut all the way thru, there is a flange on one side.

if the binding is rather severe a top layshaft being bent might be visually noticeable. i would remove the gearbox from the car, and check the spin on the idler gear and layshaft with the spur gear still on.
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Old 05-13-2016, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JAE
Loosened gearbox screws, diff case. Checked axle hubs spin freely. Still bound. Could a super heavy diff weight cause this? I was thinking not as I've spun others carpet editions and silky smooth. Can't figure this out
you may have warped the plastic. try buying a new diff housing if nothing else works.
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Old 05-13-2016, 12:29 PM
  #3050  
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I am gonna drill the hole in the 3 gear transmission to make it into a 4 gear an dI was wondering is both idler gears have to be shimmed with the 3x5x1 shim? On page 37 step 2 it shows both gears having the shim but on the previous step it only shows one being put in with the shim.
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Old 05-13-2016, 12:33 PM
  #3051  
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Originally Posted by blwaz23
I am gonna drill the hole in the 3 gear transmission to make it into a 4 gear an dI was wondering is both idler gears have to be shimmed with the 3x5x1 shim? On page 37 step 2 it shows both gears having the shim but on the previous step it only shows one being put in with the shim.
Only the top needs to be shimmed. The instructions on how to build the 4 gear are correct in the DE manual.
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Old 05-13-2016, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JAE
Loosened gearbox screws, diff case. Checked axle hubs spin freely. Still bound. Could a super heavy diff weight cause this? I was thinking not as I've spun others carpet editions and silky smooth. Can't figure this out
You need to completely disassemble the transmission.

Only put in the top shaft; tighten the trans screws and top shaft screws. Spin the top shaft, check for binding.

No binding? Pull trans apart, put in just top idler gear. Reassemble, and spin top shaft, check for binding.

No binding? Pull trans apart, put in 2nd idler gear. Reassemble, and spin top shaft, check for binding.

No binding? Put diff in holder, bolt trans together, spin top shaft, check for binding.

If at any step there is binding, evaluate what part caused the binding. Check bearings, check to make sure the screws are wrenched super tight, just snug is fine.

Also, your questions seem like they require an immediate need - check out my sig and join the group, ask there, as SEVERAL very smart people; much smarter than myself are part of this group, and giving out tons of very good data.
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Old 05-13-2016, 12:46 PM
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Updated pics of where I'm at with the xb2. I'll write a chronicle in this post in a minute, so look for the edits.

https://imgur.com/a/Icyhg

So in 17.5 I was still after more drive off the corner. I run on an outdoor loose, wet and bumpy track with giant jumps, and generally battle both mid and rear motor cars.

I was happy with the car, and could pop off some hero laps that were right inline with the fastest; however I wasn't consistent. I know driving wise I am getting better; however I Wanted to see how much more comfy I could make the car.

I tried the 4 gear, and it really calmed the rear end down immensely. Gave more 5-10% more forward bite and made the car jump a little flatter, but did not allow me to whip it very much.

I ran two nights with the 4 gear and like it; but I'm going back to the 3 gear for this weekend. I also picked up the exotek D mount, and the exotek 18g brass C mount. I've also since switched to the 3 pad schelle as it gives the feel of the car more consistent to me versus the 2 pad schelle, again, my opinion.






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Old 05-13-2016, 12:52 PM
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The rear camber block; watch this, as you can easily put it on upside down, if you do, it'll add 3mm to your ball stud height.
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Old 05-13-2016, 12:53 PM
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Designed by a friend and tested by WillS on XB2 Nation, here is the shapeways XB2 fan mount, finally.

http://www.shapeways.com/product/MXV...an-mount-brace

This is specifically for the dirt car. Do not use a fan over 10mm thickness, and you'll need to shave a fan over 20mm how I did above.
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Old 05-13-2016, 12:54 PM
  #3056  
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Thanks all. Checked another diff in there, still binding. I've just gotten the gearbox out and will make it to the track to do the rest. Track owner is an Xray guy, so I'm sure he can help. Some of the diff bearings had a little rust rust. But it is not the source of the binding as i tried popping a new one in.. I'll figure it out.

Regarding bearings, wondering if I should just replace them all with Xray, or if its worth saving on the Avid. Additionally, they may only have schelle or Xray at the shop?
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Old 05-13-2016, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JAE
Thanks all. Checked another diff in there, still binding. I've just gotten the gearbox out and will make it to the track to do the rest. Track owner is an Xray guy, so I'm sure he can help. Some of the diff bearings had a little rust rust. But it is not the source of the binding as i tried popping a new one in.. I'll figure it out.

Regarding bearings, wondering if I should just replace them all with Xray, or if its worth saving on the Avid. Additionally, they may only have schelle or Xray at the shop?
All brands you listed are high quality bearings.

I haven't had a bearing issue with any of the Xrays, but I also go through every single bearing every race day, I brush, feel, clean and relube them.

I did manage to explode my 5x13x4 TKO bearing in my top shaft wednesday night. My fault, I had it shimmed too tight.
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Old 05-13-2016, 06:50 PM
  #3058  
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Default my xb2 sprint

racing tomorrow
Attached Thumbnails Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-img_0378.jpg  
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Old 05-13-2016, 06:54 PM
  #3059  
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ugh
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Old 05-13-2016, 07:17 PM
  #3060  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
If you are running the DE, get the AE diff spring for the ball diff...
Does the AE diff spring apply to the CE ball diff too ?
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