Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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#3046
I bought a used b5m once where this happened. I will check the screws, hub bearings and diff case. Knock on wood it's one of those. Hopefully not the top shaft. If so I'm waiting for the schelle top shaft and slipper clutch that's being made.
Lyons238- did this happen to you with the xb2? Which screws were too tight?
Lyons238- did this happen to you with the xb2? Which screws were too tight?
loosen the screws holding it together!!!
its not the bearings, however since you may have ran it too tight and binding you may have ruined the bearings. i replace mine with the stock bearings from amain.
i learned this lesson myself both with the XB4 and XB2, anything like the transmission keep just snug. the xray plastics are good, they will stay tight even at just snug pressure, do not over tighten.
its not the bearings, however since you may have ran it too tight and binding you may have ruined the bearings. i replace mine with the stock bearings from amain.
i learned this lesson myself both with the XB4 and XB2, anything like the transmission keep just snug. the xray plastics are good, they will stay tight even at just snug pressure, do not over tighten.
#3047
Loosened gearbox screws, diff case. Checked axle hubs spin freely. Still bound. Could a super heavy diff weight cause this? I was thinking not as I've spun others carpet editions and silky smooth. Can't figure this out
#3048
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
did you check just the gear box spin with drive shafts not in diff out drives? did the gear box spin freely?
i rebuilt my diff last week and one of my outdrive bearings was going bad, to the point it was appearing to lock and allowing the outdrive at times to spin in the bearing inner race.
if the gear box still is binding, check the gearbox for correct idler gear shimming and orientation per the instructions. there was a post back about a driver who had to correct this, his car was semi locking and hooking in the rear at random. idler gears teeth are not cut all the way thru, there is a flange on one side.
if the binding is rather severe a top layshaft being bent might be visually noticeable. i would remove the gearbox from the car, and check the spin on the idler gear and layshaft with the spur gear still on.
i rebuilt my diff last week and one of my outdrive bearings was going bad, to the point it was appearing to lock and allowing the outdrive at times to spin in the bearing inner race.
if the gear box still is binding, check the gearbox for correct idler gear shimming and orientation per the instructions. there was a post back about a driver who had to correct this, his car was semi locking and hooking in the rear at random. idler gears teeth are not cut all the way thru, there is a flange on one side.
if the binding is rather severe a top layshaft being bent might be visually noticeable. i would remove the gearbox from the car, and check the spin on the idler gear and layshaft with the spur gear still on.
#3050
I am gonna drill the hole in the 3 gear transmission to make it into a 4 gear an dI was wondering is both idler gears have to be shimmed with the 3x5x1 shim? On page 37 step 2 it shows both gears having the shim but on the previous step it only shows one being put in with the shim.
#3051
I am gonna drill the hole in the 3 gear transmission to make it into a 4 gear an dI was wondering is both idler gears have to be shimmed with the 3x5x1 shim? On page 37 step 2 it shows both gears having the shim but on the previous step it only shows one being put in with the shim.
#3052
Only put in the top shaft; tighten the trans screws and top shaft screws. Spin the top shaft, check for binding.
No binding? Pull trans apart, put in just top idler gear. Reassemble, and spin top shaft, check for binding.
No binding? Pull trans apart, put in 2nd idler gear. Reassemble, and spin top shaft, check for binding.
No binding? Put diff in holder, bolt trans together, spin top shaft, check for binding.
If at any step there is binding, evaluate what part caused the binding. Check bearings, check to make sure the screws are wrenched super tight, just snug is fine.
Also, your questions seem like they require an immediate need - check out my sig and join the group, ask there, as SEVERAL very smart people; much smarter than myself are part of this group, and giving out tons of very good data.
#3053
Updated pics of where I'm at with the xb2. I'll write a chronicle in this post in a minute, so look for the edits.
https://imgur.com/a/Icyhg
So in 17.5 I was still after more drive off the corner. I run on an outdoor loose, wet and bumpy track with giant jumps, and generally battle both mid and rear motor cars.
I was happy with the car, and could pop off some hero laps that were right inline with the fastest; however I wasn't consistent. I know driving wise I am getting better; however I Wanted to see how much more comfy I could make the car.
I tried the 4 gear, and it really calmed the rear end down immensely. Gave more 5-10% more forward bite and made the car jump a little flatter, but did not allow me to whip it very much.
I ran two nights with the 4 gear and like it; but I'm going back to the 3 gear for this weekend. I also picked up the exotek D mount, and the exotek 18g brass C mount. I've also since switched to the 3 pad schelle as it gives the feel of the car more consistent to me versus the 2 pad schelle, again, my opinion.
https://imgur.com/a/Icyhg
So in 17.5 I was still after more drive off the corner. I run on an outdoor loose, wet and bumpy track with giant jumps, and generally battle both mid and rear motor cars.
I was happy with the car, and could pop off some hero laps that were right inline with the fastest; however I wasn't consistent. I know driving wise I am getting better; however I Wanted to see how much more comfy I could make the car.
I tried the 4 gear, and it really calmed the rear end down immensely. Gave more 5-10% more forward bite and made the car jump a little flatter, but did not allow me to whip it very much.
I ran two nights with the 4 gear and like it; but I'm going back to the 3 gear for this weekend. I also picked up the exotek D mount, and the exotek 18g brass C mount. I've also since switched to the 3 pad schelle as it gives the feel of the car more consistent to me versus the 2 pad schelle, again, my opinion.
#3054
The rear camber block; watch this, as you can easily put it on upside down, if you do, it'll add 3mm to your ball stud height.
#3055
Designed by a friend and tested by WillS on XB2 Nation, here is the shapeways XB2 fan mount, finally.
http://www.shapeways.com/product/MXV...an-mount-brace
This is specifically for the dirt car. Do not use a fan over 10mm thickness, and you'll need to shave a fan over 20mm how I did above.
http://www.shapeways.com/product/MXV...an-mount-brace
This is specifically for the dirt car. Do not use a fan over 10mm thickness, and you'll need to shave a fan over 20mm how I did above.
#3056
Thanks all. Checked another diff in there, still binding. I've just gotten the gearbox out and will make it to the track to do the rest. Track owner is an Xray guy, so I'm sure he can help. Some of the diff bearings had a little rust rust. But it is not the source of the binding as i tried popping a new one in.. I'll figure it out.
Regarding bearings, wondering if I should just replace them all with Xray, or if its worth saving on the Avid. Additionally, they may only have schelle or Xray at the shop?
Regarding bearings, wondering if I should just replace them all with Xray, or if its worth saving on the Avid. Additionally, they may only have schelle or Xray at the shop?
#3057
Thanks all. Checked another diff in there, still binding. I've just gotten the gearbox out and will make it to the track to do the rest. Track owner is an Xray guy, so I'm sure he can help. Some of the diff bearings had a little rust rust. But it is not the source of the binding as i tried popping a new one in.. I'll figure it out.
Regarding bearings, wondering if I should just replace them all with Xray, or if its worth saving on the Avid. Additionally, they may only have schelle or Xray at the shop?
Regarding bearings, wondering if I should just replace them all with Xray, or if its worth saving on the Avid. Additionally, they may only have schelle or Xray at the shop?
I haven't had a bearing issue with any of the Xrays, but I also go through every single bearing every race day, I brush, feel, clean and relube them.
I did manage to explode my 5x13x4 TKO bearing in my top shaft wednesday night. My fault, I had it shimmed too tight.
#3060