ahe243

idlers and ball cups, also maybe rear hubs if not running alloy, I had enough parts to build a 2nd car and only replaced one idler and one ball cup

mx836

iTrader: (15)

Might want to grab a front bulkhead. Never broke one myself, but have read of many who have.

chrisimp

iTrader: (1)

Yep the front bulkhead I've heard about, and the triangle front tower. Also worth considering any exotek parts while they're still available as no more are getting made for the d216. I can say the front axles are worth it, allow you to run 12mm hex wheels up front which are easier and cheaper to get hold of and also the exotek top gear is nice.

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

If I'm running high traction clay and carpet in the same week should I get a second roller or is there a setup that will work for both? How much of a difference is there between clay and carpet traction?

Rlmxracer

iTrader: (14)

czrlaker

iTrader: (34)

How is this on carpet

mustangkillaz

iTrader: (5)

Anyone hear about a replacement for the d216 as of late?

chrisimp

iTrader: (1)

Last time I ran indoors on carpet I used this setup, although my d216 is far from kit. main thing is to limit the chassis flex, the b6.1d waterfall works great for the rear end, then some chassis rails on the sides and your going to have a nicer car to drive. I always find the d216 enjoyable to drive and i dont feel that far off a good set up that suits me now. some more club tuning and messing will help loads

fishboy77

iTrader: (16)

Well after two practice days with my D216 I managed to completely destroy the wing. Any suggestions on a replacement that is about 10x more durable?

chrisimp

iTrader: (1)

any 1/10th really. I've never used the original one as I heard it was like paper lol. I'm currently running a proline type r one which is thick as anything.

could be worth getting a heavy duty version mine still looks like new

Snjm

is this kit still worth buying? I can get new for 199. I know they stopped making it but figured i could stock up on parts and get a season or 2 out of it??

chrisimp

iTrader: (1)

all depends on what you want to do with it. high grip it needs alot of work but I found satisfying once setup. very strong too. I've gone to it from my b6 and Schumacher kc as it's more fun to play with. I've stocked up and plan to get two more seasons as a main car before the next one comes out basically.

will keep hold of this though no matter though as it's a nice car also very good in slippy wet conditions with the rearward weight.

I've been running the alloy chassis all this year but gonna try the carbon one again with the ae rear chassis brace should give a more controlled flex and more forgiving handling.

std kit with stiffer springs and internal limiters in the shocks and chassis brace at the rear plus b5m idler and alloy top gear removes any gearbox flex/durability issues.

nice build with mods in place to begin with and you'll have a good working different buggy

mrnizzles

iTrader: (1)

I have raced my 216 once now since getting it last year for $155 'ish.. im a lazy rc'er.. but it's my first 1/10 since 1997, when I had a Losi double X. My first 2wd buggy was a Kyosho Ultima Pro (https://www.rcscrapyard.net/kyosho-ultima-pro.htm), lol

The car is sturdy no doubt, but then again, 1/10 in general seems much more legit these modern days. I remember when carbon shock towers or tit. screws was super exotic.. thats why I like 1/8 nitro & elec they are so much more durable, but I'm impressed with my 216. I'm not fast, finished last in Int Buggy, but I will try to find a good setup that can get me a better position.

Since I run indoor clay, I think I'm gonna need the ball diff?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HOTBODIES-D...EZDo:rk:1:pf:0

Anyone have experience with this? Spare gears available or they don't wear? bearing/gear sizes/dimensions ?

I have all the tranny upgradges, need the stronger wing too , got a chassis protector, tit. turnbuckles, exotech motor plate, Team Assc pinion. stock slipper, kit supplied gear diff oil ~1k, pondering alum steering and other upgrades.

Is there an easier way to service the gear diff without taking the entire tranny off the chassis?

I figured out the gearing needed to clear the tripple, as going double-single was too slow my fastest time was my first qualifier, and by the main I was slowest because kept taking risks and different lines when I shoulda just tried to go slow like in my first qual.

mx836

iTrader: (15)

You can remove the access cover on the back of the transmission to get the diff out without removing the transmission. The guy who had the diff parts made will only sell a complete diff which is why I didn't buy one. Already had all the stuff needed other than the gear and outdrives as I was trying to sort out a ball diff that would work among others. So if you get one and have gear issues like many, you'll need to drop another $50 for a gear.

mrnizzles

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the tips, would the Serpent ball diff fit? are other gear changes needed? like using a Serpent idler gear?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/serpent...500186/p269218