Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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#2836
Tech Master
Also check the coupon codes on the site. If you spend over a certain amount, he has a code for free shipping for "most" items. The coupons help a lot.
#2838
Tech Master
#2839
The entire diffs should exchange but not the ring and pinion, most of the bearings, the front and rear drive shaft. I'm having a hard time thinking of much else
#2840
Very likely on indoor at least, it just works better for me. To add insult to upgrade injury I just assembled the new C, D hinge pin holders and the rear gearbox won't drop in the recessed chassis area without the C plate hitting the back of the battery tray. The .4 Chassis must also be slightly longer or have things offset compared to the .3 Chassis. My $300.00 upgrade just turned into a $400.00 upgrade due to the need for a new Chassis.
Do Not Upgrade your .3 to a .4, unless of course the kits are out of stock and the parts are readily available...
Do Not Upgrade your .3 to a .4, unless of course the kits are out of stock and the parts are readily available...
#2841
Tech Regular
Part number for Lunsford turnbuckle is 1450. Those are 4x50mm. Stock is 4x56mm. They can only work as steering links. If you plan on getting some for camber too, you'll need 5mm. Length will depend on setup you chose if it needs longer or shorter links. Stock links are 58mm.
#2842
Part number for Lunsford turnbuckle is 1450. Those are 4x50mm. Stock is 4x56mm. They can only work as steering links. If you plan on getting some for camber too, you'll need 5mm. Length will depend on setup you chose if it needs longer or shorter links. Stock links are 58mm.
#2843
would swapping out the .4 front and rear diff on the .3 do anything? I know I would have to gear down on the pinion. would there be a performance advantage?
#2844
The claim is that it is more efficient with less rotation of the centerline drive train gaining some battery drive time. While this may be true, you can get similar gearing on the .3 car by going up in pinon size.
#2845
So this is a tool question but I have the arrowmax shock shaft pliers which have a plastic insert where it grips the shaft and it doesn't grip very well and the shaft just spins. So I want to get the tekno pliers. I'm assuming a lot of you guys have the tekno pliers. Do those actually grip the shaft and make it easy to install shock ends?
#2846
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
So this is a tool question but I have the arrowmax shock shaft pliers which have a plastic insert where it grips the shaft and it doesn't grip very well and the shaft just spins. So I want to get the tekno pliers. I'm assuming a lot of you guys have the tekno pliers. Do those actually grip the shaft and make it easy to install shock ends?
#2847
So this is a tool question but I have the arrowmax shock shaft pliers which have a plastic insert where it grips the shaft and it doesn't grip very well and the shaft just spins. So I want to get the tekno pliers. I'm assuming a lot of you guys have the tekno pliers. Do those actually grip the shaft and make it easy to install shock ends?
#2848
#2849
#2850
I was going to update the rear hinge pin holders and the Ackerman plate and bellcrank. Will that settle the car down and give me about the same handling as the .4? And will those parts fit without other modification or parts? Or will the cvds not be long enough if I make the rear end wider (using all other .3 parts) only changing the hinge holders.
Or do I not even really need to change the rear end? Would just changing the steering plate be fine? The other thing I want to know is do I leave all the steering stops/bump stops as is (.3 stock manual locations) or should I change something on those?