Good to know Bob, thanks!

"What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:
TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs
or TKR6035 - Pink Front Springs
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs
or TKR6034 - Red Rear Springs
TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set
TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)"


Would you recommend the new LF springs for all conditions? Or just on high/med grip and smooth?

MX304, Looking at your setup there are a couple of things I would recommend that would drastically improve on power steering. Not sure if you want more, but on power steering is how you get fast!

Try taking out the anti-squat. Go to double dot down on the C or single dot down. With this much anti-squat the rear of the car will want to rise off power and become unpredictable. It also creates a weird oscillation when transitioning from on to off and back again.

Also, try moving your hubs back. You have them all the way forward, and we don't typically recommend this. We are now running them all the way back or 1 mm from all the way. With the hubs all the way forward, extra weight is placed over the rear wheels, and it won't rotate properly on power. Also with the increased dog bone angle the car will be very rigid on power and want to squat when throttle is applied. Moving the hubs forward will give the rear more on power, forward drive and severely decrease on power steering.

Both of these changes will help immensely on rough tracks and just make the car easier to drive overall.

Hi Deceit, We recommend the LF springs for all conditions. They help improve consistency on bumps and also have less of a chance to bounce when landing large jumps.

Thanks Matt, on power steering is what I am looking for. Right now if I get on the power with the wheels still turned out of a tight hairpin, the car just slides the front straight ahead. I forgot to edit the sheet to show I had already moved the hubs back. It was a big improvement! I'll drop the anti squat down next as see how it is.

thank you, are there springs for the sct as well? I know the other day someone said they were intended for the eb

Hey Matt (or Tekno),

What is the frequency (in Hz) of the "LF" springs, and what is the frequency of standard Tekno springs?

It is a very common practice to mix frequencies front/back along with spring rates when suspension tuning.

It would be very beneficial to know actual frequency instead of just saying "We recommend the LF springs for all conditions".

Thanks!

Sorry, I don't have this info.

Thanks Matt, You just gave me something to try next time out. I definitely have a push on power.

emulsion build
 

MATTDUB,
I noticed the UK tekno guys are running sct emulsion caps on there shocks. Is emulsion build the new hot setup??

You're welcome! Hope this helps.

Most definitely, we have been using TKR6018 emulsion caps on the EB, NB, SCT and EB48SL with great success! No need to change oils or pistons. Please follow the build instructions below to make sure they are consistent.

Build Directions:
Drill a small hole in the bleeder hole of the cap. Do not drill the vent hole on the side of the cap. I used a 2.0mm drill and be sure to remove all flashing.
Put the o-ring on the shock body.

Fill the shock to the top so the fluid is level or even slightly higher than the body.

No need to use a bladder.

By hand, carefully screw the cap on as it’s somewhat easy to cross thread the cap. I like to turn the cap counter clockwise until you feel the threads meet with the body, then turn the cap clockwise to seat.

Pull the shock boot over the shock end and completely push the shaft in. A little oil should come out. If none does, remove the cap and fill the body higher.
With the black o-ring on the flat head screw, screw in the screw and pump the shock about 30 times and leave the shaft fully extended.

Remove the bleeder screw and push the shaft all the way in, then quickly put the screw back in. More oil should come out. It’s important to make sure the shocks don’t hydro-lock when the shaft is fully inserted.

Using this method the shocks should be very close to dead when fully compressed and slightly retract when fully extended. Once you pump the shock a dozen times, it should be very close to dead on full compression and extension.

Last thing is to tighten the cap with tools, it needs to be snug but don't over tighten. Usually only needs 1/16th of a turn. The caps need to be a little tighter than you can do by hand but be careful when tightening the caps with tools. The caps can be very tight but not as tight as the aluminum caps.

It's actually really easy to build them emulsion style but they do need a little more maintenance as they need to be rebled when traveling or if there is a large temperature differential and before each event.

Most important thing is to make sure they don't hydrolock. Meaning the shaft should be able to be fully compressed. If there is too much oil in the shock, the shaft will be very difficult to fully press in.

Give it a try and let us know what you think!

You what would be really cool matt is emulsion shocks on a Tekno wheeler:nod:

I'll try that. It's a good idea

I use PT in all of my cars though.