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Originally Posted by ezlight
(Post 14739272)
OOhh, a lutz roller...Awesome...Don't change too much! haha
On teh SCT and EB, the middle and rear braces are optional. I still crash with the best of them, so I run all braces. I think I will take the advice given and run the braces, crashing is given for me. |
Originally Posted by JKresty
(Post 14739302)
At a glance the SCT and EB braces look to be the same parts?
I think I will take the advice given and run the braces, crashing is given for me. |
Is the Protek 150T a good servo choice for the eb48.3?
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Originally Posted by RookieRacer00
(Post 14739355)
Is the Protek 150T a good servo choice for the eb48.3?
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Originally Posted by RookieRacer00
(Post 14739355)
Is the Protek 150T a good servo choice for the eb48.3?
I ran one for my first 2 seasons without issue. After that, it needed a gear replacement set. I run the 170s now just so it'll match my truggy servo. Considering trying an MKS in the future. |
Originally Posted by akshayp14
(Post 14736540)
i have batteries ranging from 400 grams to 470 grams, but after seeing some setup sheets it seems as though something with more weight may be better balanced... any advice or a ballpark weight figure i should be aiming for? equipment is as follows: ESC (RX8g2) - 77g Motor (T8g2) - 368g Receiver (Rx471) - 7g Transponder (rc4) - 5g Servo (Savox 1271)- 63g +- wiring & pinion - 40g Total right side weight: 560 grams |
Originally Posted by akshayp14
(Post 14739887)
anyone have any thoughts on this?
I personally run SMC 6500 packs most all the time, and would probably get the new 6000 true spec pack if I were buying today, but even their 5200 budget pack is in the same weight range as what you'd want. |
Originally Posted by justpoet
(Post 14739927)
Your batteries are fairly light for 4s 8th scale. Most are in the 500-600g range for the 5000-6500mah range packs we usually run. That being said, put the wheels on scales before worrying too much about balance. I thought mine would be way off, but with a heavier servo than yours I was actually quite well balanced. Where the weight is and how that load is distributed, matters just as much as how much there is, for side to side balance.
I personally run SMC 6500 packs most all the time, and would probably get the new 6000 true spec pack if I were buying today, but even their 5200 budget pack is in the same weight range as what you'd want. i actually run a 6s setup so even lighter batteries are possible but yeah just the chassis balance that im concerned about, and thanks for reminding me about the importance of where exactly the weight is i.e. battery positioning. i will buy one of each (470g and 570g) and see how it feels once Ive built the car. |
Originally Posted by akshayp14
(Post 14740569)
Thanks for your informative response.
i actually run a 6s setup so even lighter batteries are possible but yeah just the chassis balance that im concerned about, and thanks for reminding me about the importance of where exactly the weight is i.e. battery positioning. i will buy one of each (470g and 570g) and see how it feels once Ive built the car. |
Eb48 and Et48
I am looking for the best set up for my two tekno... the condition of our outdoor track is a little compact with the top lose.. on my arrma typhon I run Aka cityblock...
1. Looking the best moto and esc combo. 2. Servo 3. Tire 4.diff oil. 5. Shock oil. And any other tip that you recommend.. |
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
(Post 14740898)
Based on the weight you gave it appears you're running a truggy motor. I'd suggest try running a buggy motor as well to help equalize your L/R bias, good for about 50 grams.
i used to run the buggy motors but then found the truggy motors to be a little more efficient (uses less mah), gives a little more vroom and stays cooler which all adds up to the motor lasting longer which i was ok to sacrifice 50-60 grams for, but i guess this means i will have to play around with motors and batteries before setup... |
Originally Posted by SCATO
(Post 14740979)
I am looking for the best set up for my two tekno... the condition of our outdoor track is a little compact with the top lose.. on my arrma typhon I run Aka cityblock...
1. Looking the best moto and esc combo. 2. Servo 3. Tire 4.diff oil. 5. Shock oil. And any other tip that you recommend.. 2) For buggy, get something 300oz/in or better, for truggy, get something 400oz/in or better. Speed is whatever you prefer, but for most folks that's something in the .07-.11 range. I'm personally running the ProTek 170s in both buggy and truggy so they match, and previously ran the ProTek 150t in the buggy for a couple seasons and have been happy with both. Going overboard on specs just means your servo will last longer and not work as hard, so don't skimp here if you're racing. If you're bashing, you can get away with a little less torque and keeping the servo saver more loose than normal. 3) Whatever tires are fast at the given track. Look at whatever the folks finishing on the podium are using, and get one of those if you don't already have it. 4) Stock oils are pretty good, but in general, these diff oils are good to have on hand: 5, 7, 10, 12, 15. If you're on really loose tracks, maybe 3 as well. I run 7-7-5 almost everywhere in the buggy and have run 10-10-5 most places with the truggy, though that's changing to 10-12-5. 5) Highly dependent on setup, temps, and track conditions. Once you find a setup you generally like, get 50cst or 2.5wt up and down from the oils used in it so you can adjust for temperature or how bad the bumps get on the track. |
Originally Posted by qstorm777
(Post 14739818)
That's what I use and I like it.
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Rear Hubs
Who knows where I can buy part #TKR5199B
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setup
Having a problem seeing the new setup sheets for some reason. Does anyone have a pic they could post. Looking for the outdoor setup.
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