Just finished building my eb48.3, and wow... So many aluminum parts compared to my sct410.3! Thing is amazing. Now if only Saturday would come, so I could try it on the track.

looks good !

don't want to bend the main shaft again so I did this ( sorry ! )



by the way, TEKNO is really correct with their prices and the main shaft only costs 17 bucks. thanks god it's not an Xray !!
+ this aluminium piece is really the best main shaft to do the job. Any steel will bend and wobble

That's cool and all, but just keep in mind that you can now no longer take ANY setup advice that anyone is giving you here. You completely changed the characteristics of the car so unless someone here has that brace too, just ignore it.

Make sure you now phrase any questions like this "I'm looking for more entry steering, will raising my front inner camber link help or hurt".

Not trying to be rude, I just don't want you to have a bad experience because one of us is trying to help and we don't realize that your car has that brace.

For what it's worth, none of us run any braces except the front one, and personally I haven't seen a single bent center drive shaft yet.

Can't forget about Tekno's awesome warranty. Send in your bent driveshaft, and get a replacement at 50% off.

thanks guys for all the advice. I'm not a racer so the setup isn't very important for me. The only thing I do is jump ( check my videos in my signature ) so it's all about survival !!
So far the tekno hold better than I thought. This mainshaft bending brings me back to my first 1/8 buggy with the exact same problem : the hobao hyper 9e

I won't ask any warranty because this car is meant for racing, not stupid freestyle jumps like I do ! ( video is half filmed ... )

Ok.. so I took my eb48.3 to the track today, just finished building it yesterday. I have pink/red springs, 7-7-5 diffs, stock shock oils, and this setup.
http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...ern%20Nats.pdf
it was extremely loose, handled jumps amazing and landed very well. but it was a handful to control and turning was awful. there is a pic of the track, any tips on where a good starting point for a setup would be appreciated. If i tried to take it slow i couldn't drive it, but if i drove it hard it actually handled better sliding around the turns. I want it to be easy to drive as i get used to 1/8 ebuggy. this is my first one, so driving that loose isn't a good starting point.

ps, using the rx8g2, t8 1900kv, and smc 6500 60c i ran for 1hr 45m before losing a body slip and switching batteries (only because i had to stop anyway, the batt wasn't dead).... not sure how that is possible, i was running the car pretty hard. since it was loose i kept on the throttle hard a lot. it was running 145* motor temp after the run with a 15pinion.

1hour 45!!?? Wow, I have the same set up and only get 20-30mins before LVC.
But look at your tires. Are those popular choices at that track? I would think something with smaller pins might be better for a hard, loose track.

I honestly dont know how the battery lasted so long... I did have to go flip my car over a lot, but still.. and probably not, i wanted impacts, but tower was out of stock when i ordered them and they just got them back in stock 2 days ago. these are enduro mediums, and they handle like shit on this track. no one else was there today, so im not sure what others run. but it is a very hard/loose track.


ive been running a tekno sct and i have 6000 and 7200mah packs, and they dont last long with a tekin 4300kv... not sure how this thing lasted so long, and the battery never actually died, i swapped just cause i knew it had to be close...

but i definitely need to change the setup and possibly the tires. im just getting back into rc and racing, so im pretty clueless on a starting point for setups. tweaking it slightly to get it where i want it isnt a big deal, but i feel like im way off with the setup i have. haha

Tires really really matter. Personally I think it's probably 50-75% of the setup at least. Big blox, enduros, etc all do well on hard packed dust free tracks. That looks very dust, so they would basically slide across the surface instead of cutting through the dust and getting to the hard pack. This would cause what you stated, loose vehicle as the tires slide in the dust, lack of turning due to the tires sliding across the dust instead of biting into the surface, etc. Start with a tire change first, then start working on the setup.

You're loose because of tires. Go with a small pin tire. Also temps play a big part of it. I run Blues mostly which are Soft. If the temps drop below 75 deg I'll switch to Greens which are Super Soft. My tire of choice is the Reflex by JConcepts. Followed by Triple Dees and Chasers.

Make sure you rebuild your diffs and shocks after about an hour of track time. Also Pistons taper up.

Would impacts be a decent choice then? And yes, it was very dusty. I have green subcultures on my sct410.3, but i didnt get to run it yesterday.

I have the white 4hole's, taper up atm with stock 400/450. someone recommended i switch to 10/7/5 diffs also.

I am hitting the track again tomorrow, so hoping I can make some adjustments to it today so i can get some better laps in tomorrow.

Pistons taper up has been talked about a lot recently. What is the theory behind that? Seems like taper down would allow a little quicker rebound to get the shock set up for the next impact. Then with taper down it will help with compression as well.
I think I will try the taper up, just rebuilt my shocks though-drat!
What is happening with the taper up?
Thanks

New car? New cars can be looser until they break in. And of course, those tires.

Damn.. for the sct I know Enduro's were kinda popular. For ebug, I don't see any at all.. and unfortunately they were more expensive than any other tire.