weedsnager

iTrader: (11)

Ok, I have a Savox 2274 on order, I'll want to set it to 7.4v, correct ?

Calde315

iTrader: (6)

I saw one of you used HK Lipos. I see SMC isn't available right now, any other really decent budget batteries for 4s that work good for these buggies?

SLW-SVT

iTrader: (15)

A couple of Tekno sponsored guys at my track are running Graupner 180a ESCs with one of them running it for more than a year with no issues. I recently switched to the new version "180r" and have been happy with them so far on all my Tekno cars. I also just purchase their X8-n radio that works with the telemetry that the 180r provides. You can also adjust all esc settings from the radio. If you order the ESC, send them a message asking if the programming lcd is included and they will send you one free of charge (at least they did for myself and another friend that switched to Graupner. worth a try).

http://www.graupnerusa.com/GM-GENIUS...ESC_p_909.html

SLW-SVT

iTrader: (15)

A couple of Tekno sponsored guys at my track are running Graupner 180a ESCs with one of them running it for more than a year with no issues. I recently switched to the new version "180r" and have been happy with them so far on all my Tekno cars. I also just purchase their X8-n radio that works with the telemetry that the 180r provides. You can also adjust all esc settings from the radio. If you order the ESC, send them a message asking if the programming lcd is included and they will send you one free of charge (at least they did for myself and another friend that switched to Graupner. worth a try).

http://www.graupnerusa.com/GM-GENIUS...ESC_p_909.html

werner sline

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...ur1030/p498182
fioroni piston with balls : cool little piece of technology !

kyleman7

iTrader: (20)

That is really neat.

shannow

iTrader: (1)

It's a little off topic but could someone tell me how to find or give me the part number corresponding to these (both size M) :
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tekno-rc...phite-heather/
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tekno-rc...ill-mesh-back/
I'd like to order them in my LHS in France but they asked me for the reference numbers.

Thanks

Ilias

Hi Shannow,

Part numbers for the above products are:

T-Shirt: TKRTS06M
Hat: TKRHAT08SM

Let us know if you need any further info!

shannow

iTrader: (1)

Great ! Thanks

Stubbs

iTrader: (58)

I feel for you.....I've had several Tekin's let out the magic smoke over the past few years. Everyone of them was due to the posts loosening, and touching the one beside it. There was a random case breakage, but I think that really was a fluke. I mount all of my ESC's on Kyosho Zeal gel, and don't wreck any more than the average guy, but they still keep going poof!

I think the post design is an inherent weak link. They're rather tall, take a lot of bending load at times, and the little nubbin that holds them in the PCB is only 2mm diameter, by a little over 2mm tall. The posts move back and forth, creating little micro fractures, which increases resistance....which creates more heat.....which makes even more movement......which creates more heat......eventually, it just lets go.

I'm going to do a little custom mod on the one Tekin I have left, and make a custom set of short posts, maybe even small ferrules, that I'll use, and solder the wire pigtails right on the board. That should take the stress off of that joint, and hopefully make them last longer.... I like how they perform, but man, Tekin really needs to step it up in the durability dept. though.

In the meantime, I'm trying out an Orion Vortex R8.1 Pro, to see if it lasts any longer. It's got a nice aluminum case, and the programming box is way more convenient than needing a separate device to use the Hotwire. Downside is the size...the ESC is smaller than the Tekin, but it has an external capacitor bank, and a friggin' huge power / set button switch. There's no good way to mount it in the Tekno without a little modification...

I posted a few days ago to see if anyone had mounted one in their Teknos, but didn't get much good info. I tried several different configurations over the weekend, and came up with one that is very tidy. I had to lengthen the switch leads, so I could mount it on the receiver box, but it wasn't a big deal at all..... I used some old servo extension wires I had laying around, but I'm going to get some 4-conductor 22 ga. flat ribbon cable for when I do my buddy's ET and EB48.3

Here's a picture of what I ended up with......I think it turned out pretty nice.

Stubbs

iTrader: (58)

You could also go with a Hobbywing Xerun XR8..... HW makes the Orion ESC, it has the same friggin' huge switch, but the leads are a bit longer, so you can mount it over by the battery tray with no modifications. If you google "hobbywing xr8 in tekno eb48", a number of good images come up.

coombes

iTrader: (6)

Thanks stubb

coombes

iTrader: (6)

Does anyone run uni steer joint on bump lose dusty track what you think be worth doing

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

If you find the car doesn't roll enough, or bounces too much on throttle, then the universals can be quite helpful. They're not for every surface and driving style, but bumpy is a prime reason for trying them as a tuning option.

vwduud

iTrader: (48)

I club race regularly at 2 different tracks: an outdoor, rough, medium grip track and a highly groomed, smooth indoor track (can be loose to high grip at times).

Initially, I did find the universals to have an advantage on the outdoor, rough track. In general, the car felt more connected to the track surface both on throttle and off with the universals, whereas the on throttle traction was slightly sacrificed running CVD's (couldn't get on the throttle as hard with the CVD's).

Initially running the universals on the smooth indoor track, my lap times went down slightly. Putting the CVD's back in, brought my lap times back up. The car just seemed a little more sluggish or too hooked up in the rear with the universals.

So, the easy solution here would be to swap back and forth for each track. And while I built up 2 complete sets of hubs to make the swap 'easier', it still was more work that I felt like doing.

Add to that, the universals wear slightly better. The rolling pins in a universal vs. the sliding pin on a CVD appears to also reduce surface wear as it frees up the mechanical bind.

As a result of wanting to do less work from track to track AND reducing maintenance (not having to service the CVD pins and barrels), I now run the universals at both tracks. To get my lap times back up on the indoor track, I was able to change the front sway bar (one step smaller: 2.4mm to 2.3mm). As it turned out, the smaller sway bar had little to no effect on the performance at the outdoor track. Yet, if it did, changing a sway bar is less work than swapping universals for CVD's.

Jim