84LikesTeam Associated SC5M Thread
04-02-2017, 11:22 PM - Wikipost
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04-16-2017, 02:36 PM
#2357
I used a b5m sway bar for the front and incorporated the other changes. It's a lot better! I could still use more rear traction. What shock setup are you guys running?
04-16-2017, 08:35 PM
#2360
04-17-2017, 10:53 PM
#2362
Hey guys, I am having a heck of a time finding an after market body that will fit my SC5M.
Associated says the SC10 "09 Championship body" will fit, any good Pro Line bodies?
Associated says the SC10 "09 Championship body" will fit, any good Pro Line bodies?
04-18-2017, 01:59 AM
#2363
04-18-2017, 05:51 AM
#2364
Ok I went to 3.5 degree of rear toe and move the shocks to middle hole, still was not enough rear traction. So I raised the rear camber link 2mm and went inside hole on tower, outside hole on hub. Moved front shocks to outside hole on a arm. Made a big difference. But now I have a problem, the rear end wants to kick out to the right under heavy acceleration. I have taken the truck apart 3 times and checked for binding. After the 3rd time I moved all the left side bearings to the right side and changed the CVs left to right along with front axles. Still the rear end kicks out to the right. Checked and rechecked to make sure I had the same pills in C and D mount. Checked shock length. Triple checked alignment. I am at a lose of why it started doing this. Could my frame be sprung? How would I check that without buying a new frame? It did this once before and it ended up being bad bearings on the left side, hence why I switched the bearings sides. I also put new bearings in left side when switching bearing sides did not help.
04-18-2017, 07:38 AM
#2365
Big_Show
Are you the first owner of this truck and built it your self, or did you pick it up used? And without looking back at beginning of your thread what track surface do you race on? I picked up my truck used and am anal about how things are and went thru entire truck like a new build and found out the rear bearing blocks were on backwards he had them switched side to side. so I put them correct. not sure what effect this would of had on handling but to me it was not correct. I run on 2 med. to high bite tracks indoors only my truck is 100% to manual build only with the following changes front springs are gray, front shock oil is 35 rear oil 32.5 all shock positions are to manual all shims under ball studs are manual and rear toe/droop is 3/1 I am not the best driver but man this thing will do almost anything I want it to no problems. I run the clay dirt webs (one of the tires of choice at tracks) I run my battery 7mm forward and have no added weight yet I want to but haven't done it. I run in the mod class with an 8.5 motor. I know it gets aggravating but hopefully someone will help you figure it out, have you had anyone at you track try driving it to see if it might just be your driving style, versus a problem with the truck,or asking them for suggestions.
Are you the first owner of this truck and built it your self, or did you pick it up used? And without looking back at beginning of your thread what track surface do you race on? I picked up my truck used and am anal about how things are and went thru entire truck like a new build and found out the rear bearing blocks were on backwards he had them switched side to side. so I put them correct. not sure what effect this would of had on handling but to me it was not correct. I run on 2 med. to high bite tracks indoors only my truck is 100% to manual build only with the following changes front springs are gray, front shock oil is 35 rear oil 32.5 all shock positions are to manual all shims under ball studs are manual and rear toe/droop is 3/1 I am not the best driver but man this thing will do almost anything I want it to no problems. I run the clay dirt webs (one of the tires of choice at tracks) I run my battery 7mm forward and have no added weight yet I want to but haven't done it. I run in the mod class with an 8.5 motor. I know it gets aggravating but hopefully someone will help you figure it out, have you had anyone at you track try driving it to see if it might just be your driving style, versus a problem with the truck,or asking them for suggestions.
04-18-2017, 10:28 AM
#2366
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04-18-2017, 11:06 AM
#2367
Tech Rookie
Big_Show
Are you the first owner of this truck and built it your self, or did you pick it up used? And without looking back at beginning of your thread what track surface do you race on? I picked up my truck used and am anal about how things are and went thru entire truck like a new build and found out the rear bearing blocks were on backwards he had them switched side to side. so I put them correct. not sure what effect this would of had on handling but to me it was not correct. I run on 2 med. to high bite tracks indoors only my truck is 100% to manual build only with the following changes front springs are gray, front shock oil is 35 rear oil 32.5 all shock positions are to manual all shims under ball studs are manual and rear toe/droop is 3/1 I am not the best driver but man this thing will do almost anything I want it to no problems. I run the clay dirt webs (one of the tires of choice at tracks) I run my battery 7mm forward and have no added weight yet I want to but haven't done it. I run in the mod class with an 8.5 motor. I know it gets aggravating but hopefully someone will help you figure it out, have you had anyone at you track try driving it to see if it might just be your driving style, versus a problem with the truck,or asking them for suggestions.
Are you the first owner of this truck and built it your self, or did you pick it up used? And without looking back at beginning of your thread what track surface do you race on? I picked up my truck used and am anal about how things are and went thru entire truck like a new build and found out the rear bearing blocks were on backwards he had them switched side to side. so I put them correct. not sure what effect this would of had on handling but to me it was not correct. I run on 2 med. to high bite tracks indoors only my truck is 100% to manual build only with the following changes front springs are gray, front shock oil is 35 rear oil 32.5 all shock positions are to manual all shims under ball studs are manual and rear toe/droop is 3/1 I am not the best driver but man this thing will do almost anything I want it to no problems. I run the clay dirt webs (one of the tires of choice at tracks) I run my battery 7mm forward and have no added weight yet I want to but haven't done it. I run in the mod class with an 8.5 motor. I know it gets aggravating but hopefully someone will help you figure it out, have you had anyone at you track try driving it to see if it might just be your driving style, versus a problem with the truck,or asking them for suggestions.
04-18-2017, 01:01 PM
#2368
Yes I am the only owner, and been building RC10's since early 1986. Never had an RC10 do anything like this. First 3 races it drove awesome, 4th race would not drive straight for anything, the rear kicked out to the right. Put Avid bearing kit in it and drove great once again for 2 race days. Now rear kicking out to the right again, hence why I changed bearings side for side, then put new in the left again. The bearings I took out do not feel or look bad. I have sat the frame by itself on a granite table and it sits flat. Measured cross ways from f bulkhead holes to rear c and d mount holes and measures square.
04-18-2017, 01:17 PM
#2370
AS far as tracks go, indoor all winter hard packed dirt and slick. M4 electrons with traction compound. Currently running on my practice track which is packed dirt/top soil, green goosebumps and carvers.
Slipper is set to slip around 2 feet, diff is freshly rebuilt and a little on the tight side, but just tight enough it does not bark.
I do not feel it is the diff or slipper because the truck only kicks out to the right side. I do not feel it is something with my track because my B6D and my daughters SC10 and B6D track fine around the track.
Slipper is set to slip around 2 feet, diff is freshly rebuilt and a little on the tight side, but just tight enough it does not bark.
I do not feel it is the diff or slipper because the truck only kicks out to the right side. I do not feel it is something with my track because my B6D and my daughters SC10 and B6D track fine around the track.