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Old 04-09-2017, 11:51 AM
  #2341  
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Originally Posted by suby723
Just a teaser for y'all.
Three gear lay down?
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Old 04-09-2017, 12:13 PM
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ALmost done. All b6 laydown parts used for this build expect the rear tower. Total cost was a little over $100.
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Old 04-09-2017, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by suby723
ALmost done. All b6 laydown parts used for this build expect the rear tower. Total cost was a little over $100.
Do tell, Do tell...

What all is needed to do this?
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Old 04-09-2017, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by tylem28
Do tell, Do tell...

What all is needed to do this?
T5M and SC5M 4mm Carbon Fiber Rear Shock Tower B6 LD Transmission Conversion | Vision Racing

The instructions and exact parts needed are also listed. It was very easy to build.
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Old 04-10-2017, 02:24 AM
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I need a little help. The rear of my SC5M is loose after the apex of turns with 17.5, worse with a mod motor. Before the following changes the rear would slide out without any throttle, after the changes I can roll the throttle on, but in the heat of a battle it is hard to always just to roll it on. I started with box set up and made the following changes, rear end: no washer under tower ball stud, green springs, shocks outside hole on a arms, brass c mount, aluminium d mount, 3 toe 1 anti squat, battery toward the back, and running 3 gear tranny. Front: 37.5 oil and grey springs. Would the four gear tranny help with this? I TQed with this set up at a trophy race this past sat. But in the mains I over throttled and kept sliding out.
Going to a new track outdoors in 2 weeks and would like to fix this as they only have mod SC and tire of choose is city blocks. So it sounds like it is going to be a little loose to begin with.
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Old 04-10-2017, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Big_Show
I need a little help. The rear of my SC5M is loose after the apex of turns with 17.5, worse with a mod motor. Before the following changes the rear would slide out without any throttle, after the changes I can roll the throttle on, but in the heat of a battle it is hard to always just to roll it on. I started with box set up and made the following changes, rear end: no washer under tower ball stud, green springs, shocks outside hole on a arms, brass c mount, aluminium d mount, 3 toe 1 anti squat, battery toward the back, and running 3 gear tranny. Front: 37.5 oil and grey springs. Would the four gear tranny help with this? I TQed with this set up at a trophy race this past sat. But in the mains I over throttled and kept sliding out.
Going to a new track outdoors in 2 weeks and would like to fix this as they only have mod SC and tire of choose is city blocks. So it sounds like it is going to be a little loose to begin with.
More rear toe!
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Old 04-10-2017, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Big_Show
I need a little help. The rear of my SC5M is loose after the apex of turns with 17.5, worse with a mod motor. Before the following changes the rear would slide out without any throttle, after the changes I can roll the throttle on, but in the heat of a battle it is hard to always just to roll it on. I started with box set up and made the following changes, rear end: no washer under tower ball stud, green springs, shocks outside hole on a arms, brass c mount, aluminium d mount, 3 toe 1 anti squat, battery toward the back, and running 3 gear tranny. Front: 37.5 oil and grey springs. Would the four gear tranny help with this? I TQed with this set up at a trophy race this past sat. But in the mains I over throttled and kept sliding out.
Going to a new track outdoors in 2 weeks and would like to fix this as they only have mod SC and tire of choose is city blocks. So it sounds like it is going to be a little loose to begin with.
Having same issues, help!
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Old 04-10-2017, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by bortp
Opinion wanted. I have finished building my SC5M, I have the electronics just waiting on my backordered servo. I will be running the Hobbywing XR10 Pro ESC, with the Hobbywing G2 17.5T motor, waiting on the Reedy RT1508 servo.

I still need to get some batteries. I think I will go SMC (everyone seems to love them). There are only 2 shorty options. I cannot post links, so if you go to SMC website the first battery in question is the Shorty 4000mAh 150C Roar Approved (only on pre order), second is Shorty 4600mAh 90C battery.

I would like opinions if either one of those would be good for my setup, and also good for possibly upgrading to a lower turn motor? I was leaning more towards the one on pre-order, since it has a higher C rating and is Roar Approved. But I am wondering if I should be fine for 10 minute run times with the second battery? Thanks, you all have been really helpful so far.
Any input?
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Old 04-10-2017, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Big_Show
I need a little help. The rear of my SC5M is loose after the apex of turns with 17.5, worse with a mod motor. Before the following changes the rear would slide out without any throttle, after the changes I can roll the throttle on, but in the heat of a battle it is hard to always just to roll it on. I started with box set up and made the following changes, rear end: no washer under tower ball stud, green springs, shocks outside hole on a arms, brass c mount, aluminium d mount, 3 toe 1 anti squat, battery toward the back, and running 3 gear tranny. Front: 37.5 oil and grey springs. Would the four gear tranny help with this? I TQed with this set up at a trophy race this past sat. But in the mains I over throttled and kept sliding out.
Going to a new track outdoors in 2 weeks and would like to fix this as they only have mod SC and tire of choose is city blocks. So it sounds like it is going to be a little loose to begin with.
One issue I see is the rear shocks on outside hole on the arm. While it might feel comfortable it's actually stiffer and will not accelerate well. Use the middle hole and 35mm exposed shaft. Unless grip is ridiculous like running slicks, I always use 3.5 rear toe. It accelerates so well in mod.
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Old 04-10-2017, 07:01 PM
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More rear toe and shocks back to middle. Ok I will try it, thank you anr211 and aeRayls. No the track I have been running is slick, half worn out M4 Electrons and tire sauce. No slicks.
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Old 04-10-2017, 07:31 PM
  #2351  
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Originally Posted by bortp
Any input?
The second will give longer runtime, I think for 2wd SC 150c is not needed. I'd go 90c with More mah = doubles and triples from start to finish.
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Old 04-10-2017, 09:03 PM
  #2352  
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Originally Posted by Big_Show
I need a little help. The rear of my SC5M is loose after the apex of turns with 17.5, worse with a mod motor. Before the following changes the rear would slide out without any throttle, after the changes I can roll the throttle on, but in the heat of a battle it is hard to always just to roll it on. I started with box set up and made the following changes, rear end: no washer under tower ball stud, green springs, shocks outside hole on a arms, brass c mount, aluminium d mount, 3 toe 1 anti squat, battery toward the back, and running 3 gear tranny. Front: 37.5 oil and grey springs. Would the four gear tranny help with this? I TQed with this set up at a trophy race this past sat. But in the mains I over throttled and kept sliding out.
Going to a new track outdoors in 2 weeks and would like to fix this as they only have mod SC and tire of choose is city blocks. So it sounds like it is going to be a little loose to begin with.
Although all the advice that you've been given is good, have you started with the basics? Anything binding or loose? How about the diff? I had similar issues with my buggy once and it was a loose diff.
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Old 04-11-2017, 02:34 PM
  #2353  
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From what I can see nothing is binding, the a arms all fall free with out the shocks on, wheels freely roll. Had a buddy see if he could find anything out of normal and did not. Have tried the diff tight and the diff somewhat loose. It worked better with the diff looser.
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Old 04-13-2017, 02:05 PM
  #2354  
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Which Rear Sway Bar Kit do you use?

91535?
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:15 PM
  #2355  
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Originally Posted by tylem28

Which Rear Sway Bar Kit do you use? Is this the right one?

91535?
Can anyone help with confirm?
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