219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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06-26-2015, 10:59 AM
#1381
When assembling or disassembling shocks, use a 17mm wrench on the shock body to break loose cap or cartridge. No need to buy expensive fancy specialty tools.
06-26-2015, 11:22 AM
#1382
Tech Master
06-26-2015, 12:30 PM
#1383
Tech Adept
06-26-2015, 12:44 PM
#1384
Tech Master
06-26-2015, 03:33 PM
#1385
[QUOTE=Hoese37;14069549]No need to worry about the towers. The rear is now 5MM thick, and the front has lost the recesses for the stand off. So there is now more beef in the towers which will reduce breakage.
Ok I called castle and talked to them and they stated that a vehicle like the tekno is what the sidewinder sct is made for....they told me 6.5 and the tekno weighs 6.2 with rx8 and sct motor....... And it is much less with normal electronics...... And as for the motor the man I talked to said it was basically a 550 rotor stuffed in to a 540 can as roar did not like the power the 550 made and so to get around it they stuffed it in a 540 can which there where no rules for in 4wd sct as it was considered too weak to drive a 4x4..... I'm giving it a shot tomorrow and we shall see..... Hopefully it works as claimed lol
Ok so what is the problem with the castle sidewinder sct setup?(it is the sct edition of the esc) Is the motor too weak or does the esc not provide enough amps? I'm kinda confused as to what sct it is for as a four pole is a bit overkill in 2wd and if it can not pull a 4wd what is it for?QUOTE]
Its pretty much made for the Slash. A light weight vehicle. At one point on their site Castle recommended the vehicle be under 5.5lbs to run it. The Tekno is just too big for the 65A ESC to handle.
Its pretty much made for the Slash. A light weight vehicle. At one point on their site Castle recommended the vehicle be under 5.5lbs to run it. The Tekno is just too big for the 65A ESC to handle.
06-26-2015, 03:40 PM
#1386
Aswild: About to place my last bid. Looking at $220 for the new SCT410 partially assembled. The other used one has 15hrs left on Ebay and was going to bid $200. I think those are great deals compared to the quality of the durango. your thoughts?
06-26-2015, 06:03 PM
#1388
Air Guards from 410 don't fit - Where to find some?
Ordered these from Omni models. They new nerf guards do not have the same hole placement. Further, even if you drill new ones, this this doesn't fit. the holes would be too close to the edge and they would crack to the side. Does anyone know who makes Air Guards? Preferably Carbon Fiber (can't find hot laps anymore)?
Below doesn't fit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Tekno-R-...6#ht_952wt_834
Below doesn't fit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Tekno-R-...6#ht_952wt_834
06-26-2015, 06:12 PM
#1389
Then you either have them on the wrong side or are upside down. The side guards and nerf bars did not change from the original design. There are also a left and right side. You may also have the actual nerf bar on the wrong side. One is longer than the other.
Last edited by Hoese37; 06-26-2015 at 06:23 PM.
06-26-2015, 06:23 PM
#1390
Bonehead I am. One was upside down. Still would like the carbon fiber ones. These are flimsy. Mainly using to keep dirt out. Do you know who makes them?
06-26-2015, 06:27 PM
#1392
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-SCT410...1#ht_59wt_1021
Looking for these carbon fiber air guards on this roller, may get outbid on this...
Looking for these carbon fiber air guards on this roller, may get outbid on this...
06-26-2015, 06:33 PM
#1394
Hi,
I've read through this entire thread and through more than half the 1700 page sct410 thread, but cannot find a way to determine battery weight to balance the car left to right. I hope someone can help.
I just got into RC for the first time, after drooling over it for my entire life. Decided to go all out and get a SCT410.3 with waterproof electronics (it rain a lot here)
I'm running a 4S setup, with an Orion R8 WP (110g), an Orion Neon 550 2400 (265g), an 80g servo and a 10g Rx, so my electronics are about 100g heavier than a Tekin Rx8/4300HD setup many of you run.
Now for the battery, the last components to buy. As it is 4s, I'm obviously not racing it in a competition (only against myself), so runtime or mAh is not critical either. I do would like to jump straight though. I tried several ways of weighing the car (don't have a 4 wheel scales setup), but the hysteresis in the shocks and tires, together with the inaccuracies make it next to impossible to get a consistent reproducible measurement. It seems that the mass of the battery spreads ¾ to ¼ over left and right, but can't even say so for sure. My measurements also seem to show I need a 700g battery to balance the truck, which seems a bit extreme. Hence my request for help:
How can I find the optimum mass of the battery? Or am I trying to solve a made up problem and is a 200g mass difference not noticeable during jumping? I really hope someone can help.
Cheers, RCRijder
I've read through this entire thread and through more than half the 1700 page sct410 thread, but cannot find a way to determine battery weight to balance the car left to right. I hope someone can help.
I just got into RC for the first time, after drooling over it for my entire life. Decided to go all out and get a SCT410.3 with waterproof electronics (it rain a lot here)
I'm running a 4S setup, with an Orion R8 WP (110g), an Orion Neon 550 2400 (265g), an 80g servo and a 10g Rx, so my electronics are about 100g heavier than a Tekin Rx8/4300HD setup many of you run.
Now for the battery, the last components to buy. As it is 4s, I'm obviously not racing it in a competition (only against myself), so runtime or mAh is not critical either. I do would like to jump straight though. I tried several ways of weighing the car (don't have a 4 wheel scales setup), but the hysteresis in the shocks and tires, together with the inaccuracies make it next to impossible to get a consistent reproducible measurement. It seems that the mass of the battery spreads ¾ to ¼ over left and right, but can't even say so for sure. My measurements also seem to show I need a 700g battery to balance the truck, which seems a bit extreme. Hence my request for help:
How can I find the optimum mass of the battery? Or am I trying to solve a made up problem and is a 200g mass difference not noticeable during jumping? I really hope someone can help.
Cheers, RCRijder
06-26-2015, 06:36 PM
#1395
Thx - Maybe I'll just buy this roller and swap out to air guards. Like my 410.3 so much I'm going to find another to run 3s-4s just to practice on with a 3000kv motor. What are your thoughts on that roller? there is another one too just built never used on Ebay...