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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 11-26-2018, 06:12 PM
  #5761  
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Originally Posted by pat5b
I have 2 sets of speedline and the fit is perfect!
Awesome, thanks!!!! Just ordered a set of Speedline SC Plus. DE Racing has them on eBay $18 shipped for a set of 4.
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Old 11-29-2018, 11:51 AM
  #5762  
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Default Proline EVO

Originally Posted by pat5b
Hi! can you please help me to chose my next body for a perfect fit and performance on the track!
from my pro line f-150 raptor svt I want to switch to pro line fusion or evo or jconcepts illusion! let me know your feed back! Thanks!
I really like the Proline EVO body. It's been one of the most rugged bodies that's held up.
pat5b likes this.
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Old 11-29-2018, 11:55 AM
  #5763  
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Originally Posted by JoeRC123
Is anyone running the DE racing wheels on their 12mm hexes? I heard they were really tight fitting and hard to get on and off. Just looking for anyone here that has used them. I'd like to try the Burrego or Speedline Plus SC.
I've used Speedline Plus SC, no issues. Really solid wheels.
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Old 11-30-2018, 08:01 AM
  #5764  
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Originally Posted by ncamara
I've used Speedline Plus SC, no issues. Really solid wheels.
Good to hear. These are probably going to be the wheels I use from now on.
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Old 12-02-2018, 11:58 AM
  #5765  
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Originally Posted by RCSteveH


thanks Lineman. I’ll be going 4S too since I have all the batteries from my 1/8th scale buggies. Did you have to use stiffer springs and heavier oil to compensate for the added weight?
And the M2C’s 😎
I've battled with the setup for a while, but for now settled on pink front (LF) and green rears (LF) for now with 35 f and 30 rear TLR oil. For a super rough blown out track it seems to work pretty good as long as I run the ride height up a ways. I have every spring tekno has made for the truck and am still experimenting with shock packages though..
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Old 12-13-2018, 06:38 AM
  #5766  
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Originally Posted by ncamara
I've used Speedline Plus SC, no issues. Really solid wheels.
I installed my AKA Typos on these wheels and was not happy with how the larger diameter side of the tire fit the wheel. It’s not snug and there is a gap I can’t close in some areas. They were not easy to get on. Did I stretch the tires causing this?
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:51 PM
  #5767  
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Originally Posted by JoeRC123


I installed my AKA Typos on these wheels and was not happy with how the larger diameter side of the tire fit the wheel. It’s not snug and there is a gap I can’t close in some areas. They were not easy to get on. Did I stretch the tires causing this?
I've never used AKA short course tires, but I've used a lot of the DE wheels and it seems that sometimes I have the same problem where the wheel needs to be maybe 1/8" bigger diameter in order for the tire to fit properly. I just put a lot of glue in the channel where the bead sits, then put the tire in then tightly wrap electrical tape around the edge of the tread for several wraps, forcing the bead to go in nice and tight. Seems to work good for me that way...
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Old 12-13-2018, 08:25 PM
  #5768  
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Originally Posted by Lineman26
I've never used AKA short course tires, but I've used a lot of the DE wheels and it seems that sometimes I have the same problem where the wheel needs to be maybe 1/8" bigger diameter in order for the tire to fit properly. I just put a lot of glue in the channel where the bead sits, then put the tire in then tightly wrap electrical tape around the edge of the tread for several wraps, forcing the bead to go in nice and tight. Seems to work good for me that way...
Nice tip thanks. Too bad I didn't know that tip before I glued them up. I can't see it lasting after the dirt getting in that giant gap.
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Old 12-20-2018, 05:35 PM
  #5769  
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Has anyone replaced drive pins in the driveshafts before? I've got no problem pressing them out, but can't seem to find replacement pins being sold anywhere.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:09 AM
  #5770  
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Originally Posted by ChappyEight
Has anyone replaced drive pins in the driveshafts before? I've got no problem pressing them out, but can't seem to find replacement pins being sold anywhere.
Like this? They have anything you could imagine...

https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-dowel-pins

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Old 12-22-2018, 10:00 AM
  #5771  
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Originally Posted by celt
Like this? They have anything you could imagine...

https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-dowel-pins
Yep a buddy of mine ordered a bunch for me. We cut them to length with a dremmel and he has a tool for pressing them in. It can be a bitch to remove the old ones but it's a lot cheaper than buying a new axle every time they wear out.
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Old 12-22-2018, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeRC123
Nice tip thanks. Too bad I didn't know that tip before I glued them up. I can't see it lasting after the dirt getting in that giant gap.
you can also buy tire glue bands and reuse them
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Old 12-22-2018, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ChappyEight
Has anyone replaced drive pins in the driveshafts before? I've got no problem pressing them out, but can't seem to find replacement pins being sold anywhere.
These https://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-M3-x...item2a8683955f are what I use currently for the drive shafts of my EB48. I would double check the size you need for the SCT, but they were cheap and have worked out perfectly. These ones in particular came from China so delivery times may take a while for some people. I live on the west coast so it was actually pretty reasonable IMO.
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Old 12-22-2018, 10:23 AM
  #5774  
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Originally Posted by JoeRC123


I installed my AKA Typos on these wheels and was not happy with how the larger diameter side of the tire fit the wheel. It’s not snug and there is a gap I can’t close in some areas. They were not easy to get on. Did I stretch the tires causing this?
i glue the smaller side first had good luck turning the tire inside out and then loading up the outer wheel channel with glue then quickly feeding the tire into the bead and spinning the tire a little before the glue sets. this has to be done quickly but i have found the best way to get the bead seated well. then after that sits for a while put the foam on and roll the tire over it. then make sure the foam and back side bead are matched up. it requires a little massaging of the foam and if you push it a little towards the bead the tire will sit in their nicely ready for glue.
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Old 12-28-2018, 12:59 PM
  #5775  
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Just thinking about buying a new unit ...should I wait for the next release or is this it ? Thanks
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