219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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11-05-2016, 07:09 AM
#4291
Tech Initiate
Yes! This totally happened! I'll put on a new pinion and I bet this will fix things. I noted that the pinion was a bit worn but used it anyways! I'm super stoked to hear this. How did I miss that? I guess it's exciting to get a new kit put together and ready to go! Thanks!
Both my SCT410's run loud. thats with new pinion and spur. I think its the nature of the beast on some of these
11-05-2016, 02:09 PM
#4292
11-05-2016, 07:44 PM
#4294
Tech Initiate
It's basically brand new. Has all tekno parts on it. Buddy has a sct410 as well...sounds the same. Way louder than the old traxxas slash I had
11-06-2016, 10:45 AM
#4296
Josh, this is probably a personal preference. While changing the throttle curve at the radio does give a 'dead' feeling, for me no radio setting can make up for having too much power or torque. Brushless four pole systems can easily have more power than the track can handle, and I don't have the throttle finger I used to. Probably comes from racing nitro where you can just punch it and not worry too much about the wheels spinning. Adjusting settings on the radio, unfortunately, has little effect on how many amps your ESC is allowing to reach your motor.
To me, all curve does is gives a dead feeling, and messes up jump timing because the vehicle isn't accelerating literally. With curve, my finger usually ends up compensating by pulling more throttle anyway.
I used to think the same thing, just add curve. When in reality all it changes the throttle points and yes it can easily be done on the drivers stand but in my case it's only a quick fix.
To me, all curve does is gives a dead feeling, and messes up jump timing because the vehicle isn't accelerating literally. With curve, my finger usually ends up compensating by pulling more throttle anyway.
I used to think the same thing, just add curve. When in reality all it changes the throttle points and yes it can easily be done on the drivers stand but in my case it's only a quick fix.
You're right that it doesn't change the actual amperage out, and I probably should have clarified more regarding that and the fact I am not saying to completely neglect ESC tuning from it's self.
Timing and actual punch should be setup and measured via temp gauge and/or the statistical analysts charts save from previous runs within an ESC that is capable of saving run data such as the Tekin RX8 and hobbywing XR8 series.
But as far as overall output to the motor, you can turn that downwith end points, but you will loose RPM.
On the flip side to all this, if your radio is a good one, it also lets you create complex multipoint curves that are more linear to your driving style.
Anyhow you hold a good point about the PWM control vs limiting with end point or curve, I just personally think more people should utilize what I shown. Having it instantly tweekable might change initial thoughts on the effects felt by just setting it up from the menu over and over.
11-06-2016, 12:11 PM
#4297
That is interesting you feel that way. My experience is the opposite.
You're right that it doesn't change the actual amperage out, and I probably should have clarified more regarding that and the fact I am not saying to completely neglect ESC tuning from it's self.
Timing and actual punch should be setup and measured via temp gauge and/or the statistical analysts charts save from previous runs within an ESC that is capable of saving run data such as the Tekin RX8 and hobbywing XR8 series.
But as far as overall output to the motor, you can turn that downwith end points, but you will loose RPM.
On the flip side to all this, if your radio is a good one, it also lets you create complex multipoint curves that are more linear to your driving style.
Anyhow you hold a good point about the PWM control vs limiting with end point or curve, I just personally think more people should utilize what I shown. Having it instantly tweekable might change initial thoughts on the effects felt by just setting it up from the menu over and over.
You're right that it doesn't change the actual amperage out, and I probably should have clarified more regarding that and the fact I am not saying to completely neglect ESC tuning from it's self.
Timing and actual punch should be setup and measured via temp gauge and/or the statistical analysts charts save from previous runs within an ESC that is capable of saving run data such as the Tekin RX8 and hobbywing XR8 series.
But as far as overall output to the motor, you can turn that downwith end points, but you will loose RPM.
On the flip side to all this, if your radio is a good one, it also lets you create complex multipoint curves that are more linear to your driving style.
Anyhow you hold a good point about the PWM control vs limiting with end point or curve, I just personally think more people should utilize what I shown. Having it instantly tweekable might change initial thoughts on the effects felt by just setting it up from the menu over and over.
11-06-2016, 07:47 PM
#4298
I had a great Saturday winning the "Fall Classis" and clinched the championship !!
My "Rcee Susupension tuned" SCT410.3 was on point(more than the driver). I thought I would share the awesome trophy pics...they were made of CNC cut metal with LED lighting. The best looking RC trophy I have ever seen !!!
#Garciagraphix
#Teknoftw
My "Rcee Susupension tuned" SCT410.3 was on point(more than the driver). I thought I would share the awesome trophy pics...they were made of CNC cut metal with LED lighting. The best looking RC trophy I have ever seen !!!
#Garciagraphix
#Teknoftw
11-06-2016, 08:48 PM
#4299
11-06-2016, 09:28 PM
#4300
Tech Initiate
Congratulations
11-07-2016, 07:06 AM
#4301
Regarding noise, Tekno vehicles often have a unique sound to them. That being said, I've had some louder and some softer. The thing that most interested me though, was when I switched motors a few times...it DRASTICALLY changed the sound of the vehicle, despite all the motors being pretty quiet outside of the vehicle and using the same pinion. That was a while ago, but case in point, don't worry about the vehicle being loud unless you just don't like it loud. For trying to silence anything that is chassis related, use a little more grease on the ring gears in the front/back, and put a small O ring inside the front and rear couplers and center diff out drives. The warning on the O rings is that this could make things worse for bending your center shafts in a horrific crash, especially if you don't run the chassis braces.
In any case though, if you know mesh is good, the loud sound isn't a problem.
In any case though, if you know mesh is good, the loud sound isn't a problem.
11-07-2016, 09:12 AM
#4303
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
That is interesting you feel that way. My experience is the opposite.
You're right that it doesn't change the actual amperage out, and I probably should have clarified more regarding that and the fact I am not saying to completely neglect ESC tuning from it's self.
Timing and actual punch should be setup and measured via temp gauge and/or the statistical analysts charts save from previous runs within an ESC that is capable of saving run data such as the Tekin RX8 and hobbywing XR8 series.
But as far as overall output to the motor, you can turn that downwith end points, but you will loose RPM.
On the flip side to all this, if your radio is a good one, it also lets you create complex multipoint curves that are more linear to your driving style.
Anyhow you hold a good point about the PWM control vs limiting with end point or curve, I just personally think more people should utilize what I shown. Having it instantly tweekable might change initial thoughts on the effects felt by just setting it up from the menu over and over.
You're right that it doesn't change the actual amperage out, and I probably should have clarified more regarding that and the fact I am not saying to completely neglect ESC tuning from it's self.
Timing and actual punch should be setup and measured via temp gauge and/or the statistical analysts charts save from previous runs within an ESC that is capable of saving run data such as the Tekin RX8 and hobbywing XR8 series.
But as far as overall output to the motor, you can turn that downwith end points, but you will loose RPM.
On the flip side to all this, if your radio is a good one, it also lets you create complex multipoint curves that are more linear to your driving style.
Anyhow you hold a good point about the PWM control vs limiting with end point or curve, I just personally think more people should utilize what I shown. Having it instantly tweekable might change initial thoughts on the effects felt by just setting it up from the menu over and over.
11-08-2016, 07:43 PM
#4304
Took the truck out to the track again today. The new higher MAH batteries seemed to solve most of those issues. Truck still seems a bit nose heavy and my truck vs my friends is much more sensitive to dive if you even roll out of the throttle at all, his you can kind of blip and keep it half to 3/4 and it sails pretty smooth.
I took some steering out and lowered the dual rate a bit which helped with it being very oversteer heavy and twitchy on landing off jumps.
Is there a particular setup sheet that might be more "newbie" friendly in driving dynamics I should try? I just want to be able to do full practices without marshalling
I took some steering out and lowered the dual rate a bit which helped with it being very oversteer heavy and twitchy on landing off jumps.
Is there a particular setup sheet that might be more "newbie" friendly in driving dynamics I should try? I just want to be able to do full practices without marshalling
11-09-2016, 04:08 AM
#4305
While highly unlikely (assuming you both have the same setup, tires, etc)
The reason your truck would feel less sensitive rotation wise would be due to the fact he can rotate harder and smoother is due to less nose weight.
People who run a heavier pack especially find that moving the battery back 10mm helps with this greatly, allowing you to run more antisquat and will just keep the rear end more planted all together.
Consider the fact most of you turn qualities comes from the rear tire slip angle (rear toe).
If it's rotating to much add toe in, and vice versa. More toe in also majorly stabilizes your straight line acceleration.
M2C sells a chassis pan that has the 10mm back mod built in if you don't want to modify your battery tray on the stock pan the crude way. (albeit, it works just as good)
Also, generally speaking... The twichiness can be tamed without needing to reduce end points or over all servo speed. What really makes the difference is the speed at which the servo recenters/return rate. On most mid to highend radios you can adjust the return speed for the steering without effecting the rest of the servo's motion.
This allows you to keep your full turn in and initial turn in speed so you aren't limiting your self in the technical sections, but stabilizes things majorly.
As for the twichiness when you land a jump, that can be due to a number of things such as your throttle control and the angle at which you touch down IE nose high or low...
However there is an adjustment that helps correct this assuming everything else is setup to your liking. That adjustment is called "bump steer"
Bump steer is simplified to the understanding of how it effects your toe-in/toe-out when the suspension is compressed.
To further understand this you can hold your chassis up light on the tires and then slowly compress your truck down with your hand til it bottoms out and watch closely how the toe changes degrees from full droop to compressed. If it doesn't change then you have 0 bump steer. You can add some in so that it gives you more/less toe as it compresses from level to tune the way it will react upon touch down off a jump.
Bumpsteer is one of the little discussed topics in chassis tuning, but that's the easy run down.
If you're running a technical track you might want to play with your ackerman setting as well. If you are a power on through a turn sorta driver then you will like more ackerman. If you like quicker initial turn in and more off power steering through the center of a turn, then you will like less ackerman.
Lots to digest, but I highly recommend playing with these features to get a feel for what they do before you get serious about chasing a setup sheet. No matter how good that sheet will work for "ProX" if it doesn't meet your driving style it will not help you without knowing how to tune it to your liking of feel.
The reason your truck would feel less sensitive rotation wise would be due to the fact he can rotate harder and smoother is due to less nose weight.
People who run a heavier pack especially find that moving the battery back 10mm helps with this greatly, allowing you to run more antisquat and will just keep the rear end more planted all together.
Consider the fact most of you turn qualities comes from the rear tire slip angle (rear toe).
If it's rotating to much add toe in, and vice versa. More toe in also majorly stabilizes your straight line acceleration.
M2C sells a chassis pan that has the 10mm back mod built in if you don't want to modify your battery tray on the stock pan the crude way. (albeit, it works just as good)
Also, generally speaking... The twichiness can be tamed without needing to reduce end points or over all servo speed. What really makes the difference is the speed at which the servo recenters/return rate. On most mid to highend radios you can adjust the return speed for the steering without effecting the rest of the servo's motion.
This allows you to keep your full turn in and initial turn in speed so you aren't limiting your self in the technical sections, but stabilizes things majorly.
As for the twichiness when you land a jump, that can be due to a number of things such as your throttle control and the angle at which you touch down IE nose high or low...
However there is an adjustment that helps correct this assuming everything else is setup to your liking. That adjustment is called "bump steer"
Bump steer is simplified to the understanding of how it effects your toe-in/toe-out when the suspension is compressed.
To further understand this you can hold your chassis up light on the tires and then slowly compress your truck down with your hand til it bottoms out and watch closely how the toe changes degrees from full droop to compressed. If it doesn't change then you have 0 bump steer. You can add some in so that it gives you more/less toe as it compresses from level to tune the way it will react upon touch down off a jump.
Bumpsteer is one of the little discussed topics in chassis tuning, but that's the easy run down.
If you're running a technical track you might want to play with your ackerman setting as well. If you are a power on through a turn sorta driver then you will like more ackerman. If you like quicker initial turn in and more off power steering through the center of a turn, then you will like less ackerman.
Lots to digest, but I highly recommend playing with these features to get a feel for what they do before you get serious about chasing a setup sheet. No matter how good that sheet will work for "ProX" if it doesn't meet your driving style it will not help you without knowing how to tune it to your liking of feel.