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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 04-10-2015, 08:11 PM
  #241  
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Originally Posted by DriveItLikeYSIT
Are the lengths the same but 4mm instead of 5mm?
All the links are the same, TKR5123, which are the steering links. So any 4mm 55-60mm turnbuckle will work
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:16 PM
  #242  
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Originally Posted by Jordan Anderson
Besides it being ROAR approved, is there any reason to go with the '540 can' Pro 4 4,600kv over the '550 can' Pro 4 HD 4,300kv?
It's a little lighter, 193 grams versus 221grams, so a savings of 28 grams, or about an ounce. Also power delivery is a little different and the 4600 is probably a little easier on your batteries.
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:35 PM
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Received mine today oh yeah ...thanks to tekno for always having awesome products will post pics first of week when start build
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Old 04-11-2015, 01:43 AM
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I have be
ng on the kit, and will update with pictures!

One thing of note: So far the rear camber links, and rod ends are not the same as before. The inner rod end is thinner, and straight. I wouldn't dare thread my Lunsford turnbuckles into it. The Lunsford turnbuckles are 4.75mm ROUGHLY, and the new Tekno stock turnbuckles are 3mm.
I also used the #19 drill bit picked up from ace to drill the arms in the absence of a 4mm reamer, it worked great, and is a cheap option! Also your carbon diff plates are a direct swap.















Last edited by Nemaris; 04-13-2015 at 12:43 AM. Reason: updating pictures
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Old 04-11-2015, 05:28 AM
  #245  
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Nice job! And pure beauty.
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Old 04-11-2015, 06:11 AM
  #246  
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That new center shafts looks great
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Old 04-11-2015, 06:12 AM
  #247  
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Originally Posted by Nemaris
I have be
ng on the kit, and will update with pictures!

One thing of note: So far the rear camber links, and rod ends are not the same as before. The inner rod end is thinner, and straight. I wouldn't dare thread my Lunsford turnbuckles into it. The Lunsford turnbuckles are 4.75mm ROUGHLY, and the new Tekno stock turnbuckles are 3mm.
I also used the #19 drill bit picked up from ace to drill the arms in the absence of a 4mm reamer, it worked great, and is a cheap option! Also your carbon diff plates are a direct swap. I'll do a shock build walk through tomorrow, including drilling your own pistons.

I see from the get go you do not want the composite cross pins. I have to wonder why they went that direction, I understand they may be "good enough for 2S" but it still puts a cheap feel in there.
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:19 AM
  #248  
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Are the stock turnbuckles the same size as the older truck? I sold my older truck a while back but don't remember them being that skinny.
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:23 AM
  #249  
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Thought I read elsewhere that other companies have used composite cross pins in their diffs for a while and haven't seen any issues with them.
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:44 AM
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Does the mc2 chassis fit the sct410.3?
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by King DORK
Thought I read elsewhere that other companies have used composite cross pins in their diffs for a while and haven't seen any issues with them.
Durango truggy I had came with them, I had to sand them down to get the gears to move. They were such a tight fit that the diff was locked.

While they held up well enough I still did not like them. Your diff setup should be from the fluid viscosity not the fitting of the moving parts over time.
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Old 04-11-2015, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by advpball
Does the mc2 chassis fit the sct410.3?
I don't see why not. The .3 parts fit on the original 410
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Old 04-11-2015, 10:59 AM
  #253  
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Originally Posted by King DORK
Thought I read elsewhere that other companies have used composite cross pins in their diffs for a while and haven't seen any issues with them.
Don't under estimate the composite pins. They should be plenty strong and wear a lot less.
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Old 04-11-2015, 11:20 AM
  #254  
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Originally Posted by Nemaris
I have be
ng on the kit, and will update with pictures!

One thing of note: So far the rear camber links, and rod ends are not the same as before. The inner rod end is thinner, and straight. I wouldn't dare thread my Lunsford turnbuckles into it. The Lunsford turnbuckles are 4.75mm ROUGHLY, and the new Tekno stock turnbuckles are 3mm.
I also used the #19 drill bit picked up from ace to drill the arms in the absence of a 4mm reamer, it worked great, and is a cheap option! Also your carbon diff plates are a direct swap. I'll do a shock build walk through tomorrow, including drilling your own pistons.
Yes, the SCT410.3 and the new EB48SL use 4mm turnbuckles and rod ends for the steering and camber links.

Originally Posted by King DORK
Are the stock turnbuckles the same size as the older truck? I sold my older truck a while back but don't remember them being that skinny.
The only turnbuckles that are the same are the steering links. The original SCT used 5mm threaded turnbuckles and rod ends for the camber links. We tested the smaller links extensively and found them to be more than strong enough for the SCT and SL. I even ran them on my EB48 with no problems.

Originally Posted by lbenton
I see from the get go you do not want the composite cross pins. I have to wonder why they went that direction, I understand they may be "good enough for 2S" but it still puts a cheap feel in there.
They're actually good enough for our ET and NT, although with the stresses those diffs see (with the larger tires) it's better to stay with metal. They are also lighter, and significantly cheaper. We did a lot of things to cut cost in smart places to keep the street price the same as the original SCT410 while offering as many of our option parts as possible (lightened outdrives, aluminum balls and bushings, fully machined chassis, secured aluminum hexes, split diff, better droop screws, aluminum center driveshaft, etc.)

Originally Posted by King DORK
Thought I read elsewhere that other companies have used composite cross pins in their diffs for a while and haven't seen any issues with them.
We had heard this as well and were skeptical about the reliability. Once we made ours they were tested by all our drivers in all of our vehicles. If they didn't hold up we wouldn't sell them.

Originally Posted by advpball
Does the mc2 chassis fit the sct410.3?
Yes, all of the holes are unchanged. And I believe M2C's chassis has the front bulkhead holes countersunk as well for the short bumper.

Originally Posted by lbenton
Durango truggy I had came with them, I had to sand them down to get the gears to move. They were such a tight fit that the diff was locked.

While they held up well enough I still did not like them. Your diff setup should be from the fluid viscosity not the fitting of the moving parts over time.
Ours shouldn't require any hand fitting.
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Old 04-11-2015, 12:40 PM
  #255  
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who has these in stock I'm looking for one asap, money burning a hole in my pocket
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