219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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09-06-2015, 08:49 AM
#2116
I just swapped to the 4x1.8's also and going to go do some testing today on indoor clay. Are you running bladder/vented or emulsion? I'm going to play with springs and oil's today, starting pink f/pink r and 50wt f/35wt r and I have them built emulsion at the moment but may go back to a vented bladder setup. It is a great truck for sure
09-06-2015, 01:56 PM
#2117
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
I wanted to pass along an observation I made this weekend while racing short course and you guys can tell me if I'm imaging this or not.
I had a brand new body reinforced with dry wall tape and shoe goo that I begin using with my 410.3 from new (appox. 2 months ago). The body has taken an absolute beating in the process of solving my nose down jumping issue. Like I do with my eBuggy and eTruggy bodies, I elongated the mounting holes in the body to account for any front to back movement from chassis flex or wicked crashes. After about 6 weekends of racing the body looks like something out of a post-apocalyptic horror movie. I had to perform surgery multiple times with mini zip ties to stitch it together to hold out for one more race.
So about 3 weeks ago I finally have the truck jumping and performing well and I'm not having these train wreck type crash landings any longer, but the body was just toast. In order to keep the body in place for the next heat this one weekend (this was 3 races ago), I moved the body forward an inch and reamed new mounting holes. I didn't have much time, so I reamed the mounting holes just big enough to fit the body posts. In other words, I never elongated the new mounting holes.
In the 3 race weekends since creating the new mounting holes, I still had some pretty nasty crashes, but I swear the body is holding up better. My theory (and this is where you guys need to keep me honest) is that by not elongating the mounting holes and thus restricting the movement of the body during crashes, it actually preserves the body better. Am I crazy or has anyone else come to this conclusion?
I had a brand new body reinforced with dry wall tape and shoe goo that I begin using with my 410.3 from new (appox. 2 months ago). The body has taken an absolute beating in the process of solving my nose down jumping issue. Like I do with my eBuggy and eTruggy bodies, I elongated the mounting holes in the body to account for any front to back movement from chassis flex or wicked crashes. After about 6 weekends of racing the body looks like something out of a post-apocalyptic horror movie. I had to perform surgery multiple times with mini zip ties to stitch it together to hold out for one more race.
So about 3 weeks ago I finally have the truck jumping and performing well and I'm not having these train wreck type crash landings any longer, but the body was just toast. In order to keep the body in place for the next heat this one weekend (this was 3 races ago), I moved the body forward an inch and reamed new mounting holes. I didn't have much time, so I reamed the mounting holes just big enough to fit the body posts. In other words, I never elongated the new mounting holes.
In the 3 race weekends since creating the new mounting holes, I still had some pretty nasty crashes, but I swear the body is holding up better. My theory (and this is where you guys need to keep me honest) is that by not elongating the mounting holes and thus restricting the movement of the body during crashes, it actually preserves the body better. Am I crazy or has anyone else come to this conclusion?
09-06-2015, 05:23 PM
#2119
I wanted to pass along an observation I made this weekend while racing short course and you guys can tell me if I'm imaging this or not.
I had a brand new body reinforced with dry wall tape and shoe goo that I begin using with my 410.3 from new (appox. 2 months ago). The body has taken an absolute beating in the process of solving my nose down jumping issue. Like I do with my eBuggy and eTruggy bodies, I elongated the mounting holes in the body to account for any front to back movement from chassis flex or wicked crashes. After about 6 weekends of racing the body looks like something out of a post-apocalyptic horror movie. I had to perform surgery multiple times with mini zip ties to stitch it together to hold out for one more race.
So about 3 weeks ago I finally have the truck jumping and performing well and I'm not having these train wreck type crash landings any longer, but the body was just toast. In order to keep the body in place for the next heat this one weekend (this was 3 races ago), I moved the body forward an inch and reamed new mounting holes. I didn't have much time, so I reamed the mounting holes just big enough to fit the body posts. In other words, I never elongated the new mounting holes.
In the 3 race weekends since creating the new mounting holes, I still had some pretty nasty crashes, but I swear the body is holding up better. My theory (and this is where you guys need to keep me honest) is that by not elongating the mounting holes and thus restricting the movement of the body during crashes, it actually preserves the body better. Am I crazy or has anyone else come to this conclusion?
I had a brand new body reinforced with dry wall tape and shoe goo that I begin using with my 410.3 from new (appox. 2 months ago). The body has taken an absolute beating in the process of solving my nose down jumping issue. Like I do with my eBuggy and eTruggy bodies, I elongated the mounting holes in the body to account for any front to back movement from chassis flex or wicked crashes. After about 6 weekends of racing the body looks like something out of a post-apocalyptic horror movie. I had to perform surgery multiple times with mini zip ties to stitch it together to hold out for one more race.
So about 3 weeks ago I finally have the truck jumping and performing well and I'm not having these train wreck type crash landings any longer, but the body was just toast. In order to keep the body in place for the next heat this one weekend (this was 3 races ago), I moved the body forward an inch and reamed new mounting holes. I didn't have much time, so I reamed the mounting holes just big enough to fit the body posts. In other words, I never elongated the new mounting holes.
In the 3 race weekends since creating the new mounting holes, I still had some pretty nasty crashes, but I swear the body is holding up better. My theory (and this is where you guys need to keep me honest) is that by not elongating the mounting holes and thus restricting the movement of the body during crashes, it actually preserves the body better. Am I crazy or has anyone else come to this conclusion?
,no race all bash at the muni race park an ,the track is pretty tore up , i rea enforce the body with sho goo but up buy the windshield A piller an hood were u can see it creasing from nose diving. I got to get som go and goop it up Again
In the cracks
09-06-2015, 10:03 PM
#2123
Tapered pistons. I just finished building my new kit today and I put the piston 6x1.5 in with the taper down... did i do it wrong or is there a reason I see people posting pistons with the taper up?
I used 27.5 rear and 32.5 front.
Shock build vent style. I followed the instructions to build them vent style (i drilled the hole in the emulsion location). I push the shaft in leaving 15mm out and then leaned the piston at a 45 degree angle and turned the body to tighten the cap. A little messy but not bad. When I compress the shaft all the way in, it will slowly rebound almost all the way out. Is this normal or did I do something wrong? I do not hear any air inside of the shocks when I pump them.
I am used to building the emulsion style Losi shocks so this a new one for me.
Alum shock caps and collars... good upgrade? Part number?
I used 27.5 rear and 32.5 front.
Shock build vent style. I followed the instructions to build them vent style (i drilled the hole in the emulsion location). I push the shaft in leaving 15mm out and then leaned the piston at a 45 degree angle and turned the body to tighten the cap. A little messy but not bad. When I compress the shaft all the way in, it will slowly rebound almost all the way out. Is this normal or did I do something wrong? I do not hear any air inside of the shocks when I pump them.
I am used to building the emulsion style Losi shocks so this a new one for me.
Alum shock caps and collars... good upgrade? Part number?
09-07-2015, 02:24 AM
#2124
Tech Rookie
setup
Anyone tried the 4 x 1.8 flat pistons from the eb48.3, just ordered some and I am going to follow the eb48.3 setup .my sct410.3.stock one is horrible.i liked my sct410 way better than the new one.tried all kinds of pistons and springs, oil, position , bladder, emulsion, vented, if thar pistons dont work , I'm selling my tekno .3.
One set-up that might help is put the rear sway-bar in the front and vise-versa. Also, try setting the rear up with 3.5* of toe in and 2.5 anti-squat. Last, 2.5 turns of front droop from tight and 3.5 in the rear.
I have a set-up sent to my by a pro from PA that I will post upon request. I'm just not sure how to post it right now so you may have to look at my face book page. GL
09-07-2015, 08:38 AM
#2126
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
I know its a bit late bit I stuck with the light oil. I disliked the composite cross-pins in my diffs, the wheels hexes which I broke and the handling was set-up for high traction tracks. I actually increased my spring +2 in the rear, put 3 x 1.4 pistons and increased my oil to AE 40. I then decreased my front oil by -5, stood the front shocks more up-right and left the stock spring on it. I also added 55 grams of weight in the right rear of the truck to make it 50/50 side/side balanced. I have video of my build and video of me running it and it is good. I will say though, I have 3 other SCT410's and an Eb48.2 and the SCT410 I built for me already had the lightened out-drives, lightened screws, lightened F/C drive, Carbon fiber shock towers, lightened mod chassis and I still like it better than the .3 too. They are close it lap times at my track in my yard which is 80% clay and very consistent with 20+ foot double.
One set-up that might help is put the rear sway-bar in the front and vise-versa. Also, try setting the rear up with 3.5* of toe in and 2.5 anti-squat. Last, 2.5 turns of front droop from tight and 3.5 in the rear.
I have a set-up sent to my by a pro from PA that I will post upon request. I'm just not sure how to post it right now so you may have to look at my face book page. GL
One set-up that might help is put the rear sway-bar in the front and vise-versa. Also, try setting the rear up with 3.5* of toe in and 2.5 anti-squat. Last, 2.5 turns of front droop from tight and 3.5 in the rear.
I have a set-up sent to my by a pro from PA that I will post upon request. I'm just not sure how to post it right now so you may have to look at my face book page. GL
One weekend both of my rear hexes worked loose and stayed inside the hex of the wheel during a tire change. I pulled them out of the wheels and tried to snug down the grub screw on the axle and both of hexes split at the grub screw. I bought a set of the original aluminum clamping hexes and its been great ever since.
09-07-2015, 06:17 PM
#2129
Tech Rookie
HW SctPro 4700kv combo
I have been having trouble with my 3656 4700 and sct pro combo in my new 410.3. Esc cuts out after a few mins, restarts and runs for 30 seconds, then cuts out again. Tried all the typical troubleshooting below, conclusion is that the esc is overloaded somehow (with help from hobbywing tech support). I suspect I could have a weak esc, maybe components out of spec. I know others have tried this combo on this truck. If it is working well, what is your setup?
Tried:
Re-calibrated radio
LVC off
Multiple different batteries of different brands (high quality, high C and capacity that work fine in other vehicle)
Updated firmware
Unplugged sensor wire
Different radio system (completely different brand)
Put radio/steering servo direct to battery
Checked all connections
14t and 16t pinion
Hard wired switch
Confirmed no binding in drivetrain
Punch set to min, no drag brake, no timing
Temps all ok, except caps on esc get hot with 16t pinion.
Side note: tech support (Angelo) has been extremely fast responding, and great support in the tech support thread here on rctech (Slotmachine, lewis110).
Tried:
Re-calibrated radio
LVC off
Multiple different batteries of different brands (high quality, high C and capacity that work fine in other vehicle)
Updated firmware
Unplugged sensor wire
Different radio system (completely different brand)
Put radio/steering servo direct to battery
Checked all connections
14t and 16t pinion
Hard wired switch
Confirmed no binding in drivetrain
Punch set to min, no drag brake, no timing
Temps all ok, except caps on esc get hot with 16t pinion.
Side note: tech support (Angelo) has been extremely fast responding, and great support in the tech support thread here on rctech (Slotmachine, lewis110).
09-07-2015, 06:37 PM
#2130
Tech Regular
What type of battery connector are you using?