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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 08-12-2015, 12:55 PM
  #1891  
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Originally Posted by red100076
I was not aware that you could adjust the roll center at the hinge braces, I thought that was all in the camber link adjustment. Thanks for the lesson. So with the original braces I can only go up and down on the inner rear block and side to side on the rear, the new braces add in a diagonal adjustments. Got it.

I want to start with the stock v3 settings in the rear of the truck which is 3 degrees anti-squat and 2 degrees toe in. So correct me if I'm wrong, front brace top dot and rear brace inner dot?
That's correct.
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Old 08-12-2015, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi
That's correct.
Great. Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-12-2015, 01:15 PM
  #1893  
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Originally Posted by red100076
I understand that I won't have as many adjustment options available to me as I have less hole positions. But I'm not understanding how I will be "just shy on the adjustments"? The v3 stock setup is 3 degree anti squat and and 2 degrees toe in. Those are the exact numbers the original system gives me. Am I missing something?

Attachment 1310834

Attachment 1310836
Because the new block system gives you more adjustment, like I said. That's the whole point of the new block system. You won't be able to mirror the .3 setups completely. You'll have everything else, but can only adjust the pills according to the V1. The hole location for the pin can move more in each direction with the V3, where the V1 is limited compared. It's not a whole lot, and I probably wouldn't be concerned. The new block system eliminated the LRC rear block because the new pills can adjust that far.
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Old 08-12-2015, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ezlight
Because the new block system gives you more adjustment, like I said. That's the whole point of the new block system. You won't be able to mirror the .3 setups completely. You'll have everything else, but can only adjust the pills according to the V1. The hole location for the pin can move more in each direction with the V3, where the V1 is limited compared. It's not a whole lot, and I probably wouldn't be concerned. The new block system eliminated the LRC rear block because the new pills can adjust that far.
Thanks for the help. I understand the limited adjustment using the v1 blocks. My main concern is that if I use a v1 pill for 2 degrees toe in, that is what I'm going to get and that there isn't another 1 degree built into the hubs or arms that I'm not accounting for, but Tekno already accounted and adjusted for in the new system design.
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Old 08-12-2015, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by red100076
Thanks for the help. I understand the limited adjustment using the v1 blocks. My main concern is that if I use a v1 pill for 2 degrees toe in, that is what I'm going to get and that there isn't another 1 degree built into the hubs or arms that I'm not accounting for, but Tekno already accounted and adjusted for in the new system design.
The OG 410 had one degree built in to the hubs, that's why this pic shows the L on L R on R, so earlier I was wrong. With the .3 hubs you will need to go middle to get 2.0, sorry for the confusion. I forgot you said you had the .3 hub carriers.(They don't have the additional toe built in)


Last edited by Tijuana_Taxi; 08-12-2015 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 08-12-2015, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi
The OG 410 had one degree built in to the hubs, that's why this pic shows the L on L R on R, so earlier I was wrong. With the .3 hubs you will need to go middle to get 2.0, sorry for the confusion. I forgot you said you had the .3 hub carriers.(They don't have the additional toe built in)

Thanks for putting all that together for me, I got it now. I haven't even started to look at the front end and compare settings yet, anything to look out for there? I'm starting to wonder it maybe it would have been easier to buy the new truck
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Old 08-12-2015, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by red100076
Thanks for putting all that together for me, I got it now. I haven't even started to look at the front end and compare settings yet, anything to look out for there? I'm starting to wonder it maybe it would have been easier to buy the new truck
Front is basically the same story as the rear just more adjustments than the previous version, you can get the stock .3 set up with the .1 blocks.
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Old 08-12-2015, 05:51 PM
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Default Shock piston orientation

Is this correct for the 6x1.6?? After reading in the EB48.3 threads I'm confused about my SCT410.3 piston orientation....

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Old 08-12-2015, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Riflebuilder
Is this correct for the 6x1.6?? After reading in the EB48.3 threads I'm confused about my SCT410.3 piston orientation....

I don't own a tekno, but most of the time the tapper is set down like the one you have pictured. This way the rebound stroke flows quicker and the compression stroke gets better "pack" against the flatter side. I would say this looks to be correct.
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:07 PM
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Thanks, biggest race of my season is Saturday, want them to be right.
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:10 PM
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Default Need some help with springsi

Hi. After fighting with an SC10 4x4 for awhile I bought a new Tekno 410.3. I am wondering what color springs would help me the most setting the truck up. I'm really looking forward to putting this kit together and getting it set up. Had a lot of trouble getting the Sc10 to jump consistent. I expect the 410 to do much better. Thanks in advance for the help.

Rich
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Old 08-12-2015, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by FunStuff
Hi. After fighting with an SC10 4x4 for awhile I bought a new Tekno 410.3. I am wondering what color springs would help me the most setting the truck up. I'm really looking forward to putting this kit together and getting it set up. Had a lot of trouble getting the Sc10 to jump consistent. I expect the 410 to do much better. Thanks in advance for the help.

Rich
From what I have seen on my area tracks, the tekno is light years ahead of the SC10. A friend of mine and one of the best drivers at our track was a die hard AE fan with his SC10. He did decent and almost always posted up front. But he finally made the dive and bought a tekno, and a big difference is an understatement. He hasn't had it long enough to make any major tweeks yet, and it already has blown his old times out the water as is.
You will instantly feel the difference.
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Old 08-12-2015, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by FunStuff
Hi. After fighting with an SC10 4x4 for awhile I bought a new Tekno 410.3. I am wondering what color springs would help me the most setting the truck up. I'm really looking forward to putting this kit together and getting it set up. Had a lot of trouble getting the Sc10 to jump consistent. I expect the 410 to do much better. Thanks in advance for the help.

Rich
Pinks and Greens would be a nice addition to the stock springs. I do think the stock setup is good, just the rear is a tad too soft... It might be a good experience to start with the stock setup and run on your local track, see if you experience any chassis slaps on bigger jumps that throw the ass end up violently, if you don't, up to you where you go from there, but if you do, try a thicker weight oil, I use 35wt in the rear now with stock springs, but I'm picking up some pinks and greens front and rear to experiment with.
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Old 08-13-2015, 03:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Riflebuilder
Is this correct for the 6x1.6?? After reading in the EB48.3 threads I'm confused about my SCT410.3 piston orientation....

That is correct. Yeah, I read that too. I understand what you are saying.
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by FunStuff
Hi. After fighting with an SC10 4x4 for awhile I bought a new Tekno 410.3. I am wondering what color springs would help me the most setting the truck up. I'm really looking forward to putting this kit together and getting it set up. Had a lot of trouble getting the Sc10 to jump consistent. I expect the 410 to do much better. Thanks in advance for the help.

Rich
I did the same exact thing. I wanted to get back into racing, so I bought a used SC10 4x4 off CL. Fought it for 3 months, the ass end was so loose I just couldn't deal with it! I jumped ship and bought a Tekno and am very happy with it!

Also, get an Aluminum Servo arm, some DE Racing skid plates to save your chassis from wear. And 15, 16, 17 tooth pinions.

Right off the bat, buy Green rear springs, and Black front springs. You also may want to pick up Pink front springs also. Download the Tekno spring chart online, its a helpful resource. As far as oil start around 35 front and 30 rear and fine tune from there.
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