New Schumacher KF2
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#212
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
I asked the guys at Schumacher the same question. Their response was basically "as loose as you can without it jumping". It's hard to describe the setting objectively because there is really no way to measure it without using some kind of belt tensioning tool. Based on "feel" I would say looser than you might think would be OK.
#213
A couple other questions for you guys:
1) Those 1MM Quick-Clips are junk, they fall right off, should I just put a 1MM shim in place of them?
2) I am running the alum. rear link mount, and I was told to run 3MM spacers under it between where it mounts. The ball studs are now higher than the stock CF piece running 3MM spacers under the studs. Is this right?
3) I am using the Core-RC servo arm, and it is like a hair from or maybe even rubbing a tad on the top of the bulk head? I have dropped the servo all the way down towards the chassis. Savox 1258T. Has anyone else seen this?
4) How much black grease should I put on the transmission gears? I put a little blob on and then ran it through the gears, seems like enough?
5) How tight do you run the belt? I have heard and seen a whole different slew of thoughts on this.
Thanks!
1) Those 1MM Quick-Clips are junk, they fall right off, should I just put a 1MM shim in place of them?
2) I am running the alum. rear link mount, and I was told to run 3MM spacers under it between where it mounts. The ball studs are now higher than the stock CF piece running 3MM spacers under the studs. Is this right?
3) I am using the Core-RC servo arm, and it is like a hair from or maybe even rubbing a tad on the top of the bulk head? I have dropped the servo all the way down towards the chassis. Savox 1258T. Has anyone else seen this?
4) How much black grease should I put on the transmission gears? I put a little blob on and then ran it through the gears, seems like enough?
5) How tight do you run the belt? I have heard and seen a whole different slew of thoughts on this.
Thanks!
2. Alloy rear link with zero spacers it's supposed to be -4mm from the cf link with zero spacers. If you add a 3mm spacer then your at -1mm.
4. I placed a glob of grease at each of the four main cardinal headings, north south east and west on both gears.
#215
Tech Regular
I put together my KF2 kit last night and was just wondering if anyone else had a hard time getting the rear pins that hold the arms on with those little ball ends that slip into the suspension mounts and the rear suspension strap?
I had to really press it together with some force... I would hate to have to change a rear arm out :/
I hope I didn't bend any of the mounts/pins... I could feel the chassis (CF) flex a bit while trying to press the whole assembly together.
Sam
I had to really press it together with some force... I would hate to have to change a rear arm out :/
I hope I didn't bend any of the mounts/pins... I could feel the chassis (CF) flex a bit while trying to press the whole assembly together.
Sam
#216
With no spacers the cf =0 and the alloy equals -4mm. Adding spacers to the cf lowers the ball while adding spacers under the alloy raises the ball. If the manual is using 3mm (0-3=-3) with the cf than that would be the same as running 1mm with the alloy (-4+1=-3).
#217
Tech Regular
A couple other questions for you guys:
1) Those 1MM Quick-Clips are junk, they fall right off, should I just put a 1MM shim in place of them?
2) I am running the alum. rear link mount, and I was told to run 3MM spacers under it between where it mounts. The ball studs are now higher than the stock CF piece running 3MM spacers under the studs. Is this right?
3) I am using the Core-RC servo arm, and it is like a hair from or maybe even rubbing a tad on the top of the bulk head? I have dropped the servo all the way down towards the chassis. Savox 1258T. Has anyone else seen this?
4) How much black grease should I put on the transmission gears? I put a little blob on and then ran it through the gears, seems like enough?
5) How tight do you run the belt? I have heard and seen a whole different slew of thoughts on this.
Thanks!
1) Those 1MM Quick-Clips are junk, they fall right off, should I just put a 1MM shim in place of them?
2) I am running the alum. rear link mount, and I was told to run 3MM spacers under it between where it mounts. The ball studs are now higher than the stock CF piece running 3MM spacers under the studs. Is this right?
3) I am using the Core-RC servo arm, and it is like a hair from or maybe even rubbing a tad on the top of the bulk head? I have dropped the servo all the way down towards the chassis. Savox 1258T. Has anyone else seen this?
4) How much black grease should I put on the transmission gears? I put a little blob on and then ran it through the gears, seems like enough?
5) How tight do you run the belt? I have heard and seen a whole different slew of thoughts on this.
Thanks!
4) I use motorcycle chain lube as this doesn't fling, but I also have this anyway. Use just enough to give the gears a thin coating after they've been turned or run a bit, try and use something a bit sticky otherwise it'll just coat the gear cover.
5) I set the belt tension by trying to twist it. Using a finger gently try and twist the belt on the upper run, you just need to put your finger on the side of the belt and try and twist it around its own axis. You don't need to use much force and the belt will go tight when it's at its limit, it is a feel thing and doesn't need to be forced. 90 degrees is about right for me, if the belt can turn more its too loose and if less it's too tight. I've always done it this way and never had an issue.
#218
Tech Regular
Start with the 3mm if spacers under the alloy strap, this us the same as using the kit cf strap with 1mm under the ball stud.
#219
Any one have the final drive ratios for the 117T shorty belt and the 103T low grip belt?
Thanks
Thanks
#221
Has anyone tried both the Alloy chassis and CF chassis when running mod? What are your thoughts? I have the CF equipped, but I'm wondering how much different it will handle with the alloy chassis. It will add some weight which would feel more stable, right?
#224
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
I'll be building one up in just a few days time, setting it up too race stock 17.5 class on carpet and indoor clay. I was looking to keep the standard alloy chassis as I think having more weight too the ground will help cornering speed. I'll be running a novak pulse 17.5 ballistic system, if its a bit laggy for punch I was going to increase the shock oil 5 weight all round to help it not soak into the jumps.
#225
My KF2 has very little slop already I don't think the cost of pucks is worth it. I'm not looking for weight savings. I played that game with my b5m. I won't do it again.