Thanks everyon for the info!

The Factory RC battery brace looks interesting I am just concerned on how far the brace portion extends into where the ESC would be, hence my interest in say the schelle or exotek brace.

As for the Mckune brace it appears it doesn't eliminate the foam unfortunately which I am looking to do.


So I was able to get both vehicles today!

The manual has an interesting feel to it as well as a larger size. Flipping through it though it appears to have stuff in it that looks in order, with one knock I would put on it is that the parts list doesn't have an english translation at all like the actual manual does. It seems a bit odd that effort was put in to put the manual in english but the parts list got no love lol.

Can anyone elaborate on why the kit pistons are no good? I mean are these basically garbage or is it that the machine ones are ideal?

Aftermarket pistons are a good additional investment given the quality of the kit. If you're gonna build such a nice kit, grab 1.6/1.7 pistons and do it right in my opinion.

I guess I am looking at are the pistons not good that come with the kit and what is the problem with them. I know a machined piston is better, just are we talking this is like something that you have to have for a durability sake etc.

And if so which ones are the best?

Also, I for the Nova setup from schelle they advised to run this: SCH1332

However, what else do you need if anything? (shimming etc)

I see part number YO112 for the DT no YO110 on Bezerk. You can use YO108 on all the other versions of the YZ2.

(I see part number YO112 for the DT no YO110 on Bezerk. You can use YO108 on all the other versions of the YZ2.)

Sorry about that repost , I tried to add a picture , wouldn't work, you are correct part#YO110 is not on the website , but I assure you it is the right number as I checked the header sheet of the packet. I got mine from Hearns Hobbies in Melbourne , Rob Jones is your man there or you can Email ,Paul at Bezerk direct as he is the guy who owns the business and cuts the brace out.

Sorry Cain, I mis-typed. Machined pistons will hold up better and have more consistent strength and density. The kit pistons from the tree will be less consistent and may not be quite as true or round. You can definitely run them but most opt for YOKBM-S172 and YOKBM-S162. The 1.7's are white, the 1.6's are black so you can tell the difference.

perfect that is what I was looking for thanks!

Very happy girl with her first kit!

Just picked up a DTM kit, excited to get it together and give it a shake down. Primarily will be running on an outdoor astro track with the occasional trip to Hobby Action. See how it compares to a B6.

looking to pickup an aluminum servo and see the manual for the DTM looks to say use the 17mm length, but I see people mention the 20mm length here. It was mentioned it just means faster steering, is it worth getting an aluminum 17mm or just go full 20mm.

In addition to that, are Samix servo horns compatible?

Did you kit not come with machined pistons in the box? Mine did. I am however running Maifields setup, so I had to snag a set of 2X1.5s from TLR which means I needed to use a thinner washer on the shock shaft, but I had the correct shims from Kyosho on hand so all good. Car is amazing, especially on medium grip dry dusty tracks that my other laydown cars just cant deal with without so much babying around the track. Super happy with it, even in mostly stock form.

I went for the ruddog low profile servo with the matching ruddog servo horn. Horn was stellar because it has both a 16 and 20mm hole on it. I had read for quicker steering response you want 20.

The servo itself is made by highest (same as protek and Reedy).

dirt setup on dtm
 

hey mate do uou reckon you could pm the same setup please.

Awesome news Matt! Let us know how it goes - I'll look forward to hearing your feedback. Best of Luck.

I've had success with the Yokomo machined pistons, but note if you run most other aftermarket pistons (VRP, etc.) you normal have to take the bottom washer out to get the eclip to seat properly in the groove - be sure it is seated in that groove all the way as if it's just swashed on the top but not seated it will pop out. Best of Luck.