Mugen MBX7R Eco thread!
#1306
Since your just bashing do you know you can boil your plastics in hot water for 20 minutes and let cool all way down to room temp and it would make plastic flexible and hard to crack.problem solved for front arms. You can even repeat and they will never break. One more thing, you may want to put longer front chassis brace on since your bashing for less chassis flex will = less things breaking.
Nice jump and that front plate kinda odd with holder on top, I'm pretty sure it's upside down. Look at your manual!
Nice jump and that front plate kinda odd with holder on top, I'm pretty sure it's upside down. Look at your manual!
i boiled my hobao arms back then with the same recipe ! and i broke them anyway.
the mugen's arms will go trough my special steel recipe to hold on a bit better. I'm satisfied with the results on my hobao's arms.
If the mugen's arms break anyway, I may even fit the hobao's hyperstar arms on the mugen !! I know, it sounds disgusting !
About chassis flex : I think more flex for bashing is better. The chassis will flex and help to absorb hard hits
I mounted the top plate upside down on purpose as I described it. because I notice the ackermann steering plate rubbed on it ! ( you can still see the scratches )
now the steering has more room.
Anyway, I will continue to break and modify parts to make the mugen a bit stronger for my needs
#1307
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
thanks
i boiled my hobao arms back then with the same recipe ! and i broke them anyway.
the mugen's arms will go trough my special steel recipe to hold on a bit better. I'm satisfied with the results on my hobao's arms.
If the mugen's arms break anyway, I may even fit the hobao's hyperstar arms on the mugen !! I know, it sounds disgusting !
About chassis flex : I think more flex for bashing is better. The chassis will flex and help to absorb hard hits
I mounted the top plate upside down on purpose as I described it. because I notice the ackermann steering plate rubbed on it ! ( you can still see the scratches )
now the steering has more room.
Anyway, I will continue to break and modify parts to make the mugen a bit stronger for my needs
i boiled my hobao arms back then with the same recipe ! and i broke them anyway.
the mugen's arms will go trough my special steel recipe to hold on a bit better. I'm satisfied with the results on my hobao's arms.
If the mugen's arms break anyway, I may even fit the hobao's hyperstar arms on the mugen !! I know, it sounds disgusting !
About chassis flex : I think more flex for bashing is better. The chassis will flex and help to absorb hard hits
I mounted the top plate upside down on purpose as I described it. because I notice the ackermann steering plate rubbed on it ! ( you can still see the scratches )
now the steering has more room.
Anyway, I will continue to break and modify parts to make the mugen a bit stronger for my needs
#1308
yes I know, i'm not nice with this car !
I would have continued with the hobao hyper 9e (now 350USD ) but the transmission uses 12 pieces of the 12x8x4mm ball bearings. thoses are fragile and don't last long on my dusty track...
so i went to the mbx7r that has great 16x8x5mm bearing everywhere !
I studied the EB48 and if I bashed one of those nobody would have said "poor machine". But the EB48 seems weaker to me. In my humble opinion !!
but indeed, it's massacre !!
I would have continued with the hobao hyper 9e (now 350USD ) but the transmission uses 12 pieces of the 12x8x4mm ball bearings. thoses are fragile and don't last long on my dusty track...
so i went to the mbx7r that has great 16x8x5mm bearing everywhere !
I studied the EB48 and if I bashed one of those nobody would have said "poor machine". But the EB48 seems weaker to me. In my humble opinion !!
but indeed, it's massacre !!
#1309
% right now on brakes
Thanks. I'm running 30% right now on brakes. Sway bars do seem a little tight so I will loosen a little. How about my oils? I'm running AE 45 in front and AE 40 in rear.
my indoor set up was almost exactly like yours. Only thing I see is your toe in insert for rear. I ran middle down, and my car was dialed at track. Maybe to much toe In?. Also on front camber I had same thing as you I run 2 washers on top and one side screwed in tight other side just tight enough where touch washers. Looks great works great. Your set up looks good I'm thinking sway bars to tight. Need to move free side to side under full suspension compression. Reduce brakes, I only ran 45% because car was squirrel under hard brakes.
#1310
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
My buddy drove mine almost into the wall yelling "you don't have brakes. ". Lol I forgot to tell him I run light brakes.
Last edited by nitro2be; 11-15-2015 at 08:17 PM.
#1311
Hey guys I was having a chat with a mate off mine and his got a 7r nitro we was thinking how hard would it be too convert it to a 7r eco what would u need to do so
#1312
I believe Mugen uses a dedicated chassis for the Eco so you would definitely need that and the motor mount for electric. Front and rear suspension, etc. should be identical
#1313
and crap again
my second front lower arm broke. check out how it broke !
As much as I like the mugen mbx7r eco, I'm now quite sure that it's not more durable than a hobao hyper 9e or hyperstar e !
some how the mugen's plastic seems to be too hard and breaks before even streching a bit. I guess they wanted a rigid machine...
this is how I repaired the first arm that broke. But I guess it will break somewhere else anyway !!
my second front lower arm broke. check out how it broke !
As much as I like the mugen mbx7r eco, I'm now quite sure that it's not more durable than a hobao hyper 9e or hyperstar e !
some how the mugen's plastic seems to be too hard and breaks before even streching a bit. I guess they wanted a rigid machine...
this is how I repaired the first arm that broke. But I guess it will break somewhere else anyway !!
Last edited by werner sline; 11-16-2015 at 01:35 AM.
#1315
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
Ever consider some rubber bump stops on the shock shafts that stop the shock a little before chassis bottoms out so hard? I used them on a 1/10 scale buggy to prevent the same thing.. Also used them on ebuggy to prevent dog bone contact which bent the bones on DEX 408.
I think it helps to use an o-ring or fuel tubing and MOST BASHER RIGS have them. See the blue one on this traxxas shock. This might be the answer you have been looking for. Let me know if you try it and if it works.
Last edited by Thunder Trail; 10-03-2016 at 02:13 AM.
#1316
I gotta say, I'm surprised you keep driving the same way breaking the same parts. Video your hits/landings that break these parts. It will be easy to see why it broke watching slowmo playback. I think the chassis is digging in and that includes the a arm where it broke.
Ever consider some rubber bump stops on the shock shafts that stop the shock a little before chassis bottoms out so hard? I used them on a 1/10 scale buggy to prevent the same thing.. Also used them on ebuggy to prevent dog bone contact which bent the bones on DEX 408.
I think it helps to use an o-ring or fuel tubing and MOST BASHER RIGS have them. See the blue one on this traxxas shock. This might be the answer you have been looking for. Let me know if you try it and if it works.
Ever consider some rubber bump stops on the shock shafts that stop the shock a little before chassis bottoms out so hard? I used them on a 1/10 scale buggy to prevent the same thing.. Also used them on ebuggy to prevent dog bone contact which bent the bones on DEX 408.
I think it helps to use an o-ring or fuel tubing and MOST BASHER RIGS have them. See the blue one on this traxxas shock. This might be the answer you have been looking for. Let me know if you try it and if it works.
but I never tried on my 1/8
I also bend my dogbones and this trick could also help
I use rubber shockboots that will get in the way but i will try it anyway
I bash like a madman because I love this see those 1/8 buggies jump high and far. I use soft dirt in the landing spot but I sometimes miss this spot and hit the hard ground or the wooden side next to the track !
trying and missing front flips or 180° doesn't help the durability !!
I should concentrate more on the acceleration line right before the jump...
#1317
For the guy that is breaking arms...look into a T-bone racing front bumper. It is a little wider than the stock bumper and the plastics are fantastic. I am racing with mine....
#1318
I put the DE Racing Front Bumper Skid, but it's true, the T bone would offer more protection
#1320
What parts do I need to do a basic upgrades do I need going from a 7 eco to the 7r eco