29LikesMugen MBX7R Eco thread!
04-09-2015, 02:46 PM
#541
I just got my kit today. I opened it up to start the build and they sent a couple of different packs of screws stapled to a paper stating they were replacements. Anybody know what step these are used on? Or is it that there are enough of these that it replaces all screws of this type?
Gonna have to keep one for myself. It's good to be back with Mugen.
04-10-2015, 05:59 AM
#544
Tech Adept
Hideeho
I'm not sure I 100% understand your question.
Do you mean there is no way to get any rebound in the shock at all? If so, it's only you.
Do you mean there is no way to get the exact same amount of rebound on all 4 shocks & have it stay exactly that way for a full 5 minute qualifier? That is not just you. That is the problem with building shocks & setups depending on rebound in the shock its self & why I NEVER build rebound into my shocks or setups.
I'm not sure I 100% understand your question.
Do you mean there is no way to get any rebound in the shock at all? If so, it's only you.
Do you mean there is no way to get the exact same amount of rebound on all 4 shocks & have it stay exactly that way for a full 5 minute qualifier? That is not just you. That is the problem with building shocks & setups depending on rebound in the shock its self & why I NEVER build rebound into my shocks or setups.
I meant the first one.
Well, I don't think it takes rocket science to fill with oil an ammo, let the air flow out by slowly pushing up and down the piston and then, with the piston in lower position ( max extension ), close the ammo firmly.
Well, none of my 4 new MBX7r ammo has more then few mm of rebound.
Which is the trick here to have a full rebound ( without springs mounted of course )
thx
04-10-2015, 09:05 AM
#545
Hey guys,
If this has been asked before I apologize. I'm converting my MBX7 Eco to a MBX7r ECO and have a set of aluminum hubs I never installed on my 7.
Now I know they made new hubs for the universal drive shafts since they take a 8x16x5. But old ones seem to be able to take either the large or small bearing on the inside of the hub and i did everything but bolt it on the car to see if it'll work.
So can I use my original aluminum rear hubs then?
Just don't want a $80 paper weight set.
Big thanks
Ducky
If this has been asked before I apologize. I'm converting my MBX7 Eco to a MBX7r ECO and have a set of aluminum hubs I never installed on my 7.
Now I know they made new hubs for the universal drive shafts since they take a 8x16x5. But old ones seem to be able to take either the large or small bearing on the inside of the hub and i did everything but bolt it on the car to see if it'll work.
So can I use my original aluminum rear hubs then?
Just don't want a $80 paper weight set.
Big thanks
Ducky
04-11-2015, 06:24 AM
#547
I am in same position. Lost as to why they give the same screws in the little bags as what came in the kit. Dont know the reason why they need to be replaced.
04-11-2015, 09:49 AM
#548
I meant the first one.
Well, I don't think it takes rocket science to fill with oil an ammo, let the air flow out by slowly pushing up and down the piston and then, with the piston in lower position ( max extension ), close the ammo firmly.
Well, none of my 4 new MBX7r ammo has more then few mm of rebound.
Which is the trick here to have a full rebound ( without springs mounted of course )
thx
Well, I don't think it takes rocket science to fill with oil an ammo, let the air flow out by slowly pushing up and down the piston and then, with the piston in lower position ( max extension ), close the ammo firmly.
Well, none of my 4 new MBX7r ammo has more then few mm of rebound.
Which is the trick here to have a full rebound ( without springs mounted of course )
thx
Never close your damper with the piston in lowest position...! If you want a minimum of rebound, close it at highest possible position, if you want some rebound you will go lower, but never at maximum extension!
.
04-11-2015, 01:11 PM
#549
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Is out normal for the steering to somewhat bind and have limited range at full droop? I have mine built to factory setup. I noticed the steering isn't very free, I'm just pushing the linkages with my hand. If I try to go full lock right or left it gets considerably harder and actually pulls up on the arm. If I compress the suspension it becomes free and easily moves.
04-11-2015, 08:17 PM
#552
Is out normal for the steering to somewhat bind and have limited range at full droop? I have mine built to factory setup. I noticed the steering isn't very free, I'm just pushing the linkages with my hand. If I try to go full lock right or left it gets considerably harder and actually pulls up on the arm. If I compress the suspension it becomes free and easily moves.
