JR V

iTrader: (1)

Oh and I ordered my 7R eco this morning. I can't wait! Love assembling Mugen kits.

Gpeters66

iTrader: (1)

I do the drill method and I also put black grease on the threads

jjahn

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the pic finally loaded for me, I see what they are talking about now. The way one guy was talking I thought it was some design flaw where you had to use a tiny Allen wrench to turn a large hard to turn part and risked stripping it out. This on the other hand definitely seems like a non issue. I would rather it be right now than loose from the get go.

jjahn

iTrader: (1)

I've heard of using Chapstick or beeswax too. What about a silicone spray?

Dont Hack Me

iTrader: (1)

Chapstick works well with a drill. maybe a litttle to well. they free up nice

Has anyone ran the R with 16mm CSI v-port pistons?. I have a good amount of 16mm pistons i wanted to try, but i dont really want to take the shocks apart 20 times. Any thoughts or trial runs with different pistons and fluid weights?

Waflet

iTrader: (35)

Hideeho
With ANY turnbuckles you need to run them all the way in & back out a few times during initial assembly. If you do this you will NEVER have the type of issue the op had.

To make the initial cutting of the threads easier you can use some form of lubricant (the thicker the better). I use chapstick because it is in my box & the only other thing it gets used for is on dif gaskets. My wife bought me the plain kind last time, but I prefer the cherry flavor as it give my buggy a fresh smell

http://www.chapstick.com/products/cl...assic-original

To adjust my turnbuckles, I use a 90* pick (straight or 45* would work also) from craftsman that I also use to clean the dirt out of the screws on the bottom of the chassis.

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...id=00941634000

JR V

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone measured the battery tray? I need to order up some 4S batteries and want to make sure they fit. TIA

CALABASH1950

Soon as I get some money, I'm getting an new body with these skin designs. Something with flames...http://www.rcidcustom.com/mm5/#

Emmeth

The turnbuckle issue is definitely not a showstopper, aboveall because you tweak them on a rare basis and just for few seconds.

I was just moaning about a small particular that could have been fixed simply shaping the turnbuckle surface in a squared way, just like the front turnbuckels....

Told that, I run 6s and they fit, there is only a small plastic angle I had to dremel, just a matter of 2-3 minutes, considering also the flattening of the dremeled surface.

joykiller44

iTrader: (1)

yes I bought the 16 Mm v-port pistons aluminum I had to run at 80 in the front and 60 in the rear AE shock oil 😕

jjahn

iTrader: (1)

I have a couple of bodies for the RC8.2e, has anybody ever tried to fit one on the mbx7r?

RumbleBeeAL

iTrader: (55)

Yes. For me. It was a no go.

At the moment I don't recall the model body I attempted to modify and use before I got around to painting the stock body she'll. However, using my dremmel tool, I continued to mill out the front around the upper arms and added a new body mount hole. I later found out the battery position was too high for a 4S and the position of the body.

I suspect the body mount posts on the MBX7R are lower than the RC8.2e. I recommend testing with an older/used RC8.2 body before attempting it with a new one.

jjahn

iTrader: (1)

Well I have two new in the package bodies, one is a jconcepts the other a proline I believe. Maybe I'll just try to sell them. Figured by the time I sell it with fees and shipping it probably isn't worth it, maybe I'd get enough to buy one body.

Rowdy_ Racing21

Does the proline phantom body for the nitro fit the eco?

clydeywidey

iTrader: (1)

Nope, I tried. Left side sticks up a lot.