Hacksback

What about 21.5 open rotor? Then rotors won't have to be checked, speeds are dropped slightly but not too much- more in line with past stock racing. Novak has their colored stators, as long as they are running the 21.5 stator, let them do whatever rotor they like. Is there a way to do a resistance test outside the can to determine kv or turn for other motors?

I don't think boost should be allowed. It is not easier at all, it adds another level of complexity to tuning. Not only that, but then then you have esc wars instead of motor wars.

Wild Cherry

I guess some think a seal will prevent some one from cheating.

It will not if they are determine.

A seal will however improve tech a great deal by making it easier and quicker.

A seal will go miles in restoring creditability for spec , anyone can check the motor while staging before a heat.

Of all the solutions presented here the seal does not force motor manufactures to change or redesign their motors.

No enforcement callN other racers out with claimers.
No fancy measurements or meters .

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

One way to ensure absolute honesty across the board is for ROAR to manufacture a standard Rotor and allow the manufacturers to build their motors around that and so long as they remain within the rules and pass ROAR inspection, the motor is legal. This is fair in the same way race car engines are, so long as they adhere to a maximum CC, LPS and max RPM. How a motor gets to the max allowable RPM doesn't matter so long as they don't exceed the limit.

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Adjustable dynamic timing development took about 3 months and was in the form of a couple of software update.

It is by far easier than tuning blinky motors to get the best out of them not to mention adjusting suspension building a great shock.

The last 4 years or so ESC have not improved in performance.

Easily identifiable (from outside of the can) control rotor would also work but it limits further development.

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Bonded rotors were cheaper for both flight and car applications. They worked ok in flight (I still have some which are many years old and still work fine) but they tended to become unbonded in cars.

Currently there are plenty of rotor options for stock motors, a lot more stock rotors than there are mod rotors.

Allowing the outlaw motors or open rotors isn't a big change and will make things easier for racers, easier for scruit and reduce cheating.

As per the other post control rotor is also an option but limits development.

Less is more IMO. Create restrictions only were essential and let racers and the free market sort out the rest.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Bonded motors may have been cheaper to make but we didn't pay any less for the motors, which didn't rise in cost with the change to sintered.

Open rotor is not a good idea for stock. Motor spec should be rigidly fixed, no wiggle room. More options are not easier or better in stock, less are. Same with timing speed controls, which were a big problem is stock racing (I've never seen a product banned more quickly/completely).

Modified racing offers racers tuning options if that's what interests them. The more complexity we add to stock, the fewer racers will choose to race it. Of those who choose not to race it, half or less will race modified. The rest leave all together.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

I had a long talk with Matt Murphy yesterday about teching motors. Nice guy. Showed me the difference between stock and mod rotors, what to check, etc. It was eye opening. So many ways to cheat it's not funny. A good stock rotor is 1550 gauss. Mod rotor 1770. Only way to tell is breaking the motor down and measuring. Also rotor diameter and length. Lots of low resistance stators with oversize wire available. Only way to properly check stator is with a special meter that costs $200. Basically anything that changes the motor from when it was roar approved is illegal. Even bling billet motor end bells are not approved.

If no one is doing tech at a race or doesn't know what to look for then what's the point? And without the right equipment to check stators would be easy to run a 13.5

Battery voltage and temp should also be checked. No more than 10 degrees above ambient.

Sounds like way too many things to check at the club level. Idk what the answer is just glad I run mod and don't have to deal with it.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Also just checking for blinky isn't easy. Some speed controls blink even when allowing boost. You have to know which lights to look for when checking. It may blink 1 light but needs to blink 2 to be in spec mode. Also can't be checked with trigger pull. Most will blink when hitting the brake so radio has to be out of driver's hands. What if they are smart and put in a bunch of drag brake to pass tech? Esc blinks when out of driver's hands easy to go back to unblinky with a few clicks of the trim.

Too many ways to cheat if you know what to do. Mod rotor, low resistance stator, heat the battery by charging at high amperage, maybe overcharge it a little. The guy that is running an off the shelf roar legal motor and doing things per the rules will have no chance with equal driving ability.

suby723

iTrader: (21)

What will we be doing for tech at the kings race? In all my years of racing I have never seen motor teching in our area.

kinetisist

iTrader: (31)

alittle confused here .. 17.5 is one of the cheapest classes .. build an 1/8 truggy or buggy and then the $ really adds up .. I have 500+ in my truggy and everything is used and on the flip side my 4x4 1/10 buggy cost 250 all used..and my 17.5 spec buggy is going to be less..anyway the cheaters can't brag because they get caught that way so when you win fairly you EARN the right to bragg ... if you are that type...when there are big races a fleet of volunteers are needed to check vehicles for every race... at local events it is up to all the racers to keep things in check ... clubs need to promote a positive attitude towards racing so that the racers do feel the need to cheat... It is possible to get a motor that is not correct for many reasons so catching the problem before the races start would be the best solution.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Motor teardown full check and sealed. Battery voltage, weight, proper blinky mode per roar approved list radio on table next to car, battery temp. Esc and motor has to be on roar approved list. No d3.5 based motors.

rcuser67898578

iTrader: (24)

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frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Bonded rotors were considerably cheaper. I do not recall specific prices but the difference initially was considerable. 12-18 months later the price difference was minimal.


More restrictions equals more cost, more time for scruit and more ways to cheat.

But if you want to go that way we should also restrict chassis (plastic tub only) no alloy parts at all, have no suspension adjustments, no more big bore shocks, restrict diffs perhaps all cars should have a fixed axle.

EricW

iTrader: (1)

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Which device was he using to measure stators?

The cheapest inductance meter I have found with suitable accuracy is around $500 with every other meter being well over 1k.