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Old 09-26-2016, 10:30 AM
  #1081  
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
Lot of driving this weekend. This is the best my car has felt since I owned it. And very balanced. Still slight lack of turn in but. The car is good.

If you want to give the setup a try.. here you go..

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb8_2016
Thanks, this shock setup is on point!
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:41 AM
  #1082  
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Originally Posted by lyons238
and you dont think a stiffer rear brace will decrease traction? i would say that would be more dramatic than 3 screws. try the same brace with 3 screws like the guy above just said he recommended. that's your easiest option as of now...
I did not know the new brace is stiffer. I noticed is mounted lower on the bulkhead and farther on the chassis. It looks just better conveived and I've read of others complaining about bent braces. That's why I investigate a possible switch.
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:00 AM
  #1083  
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Originally Posted by Losi T-Racer
At a minimum it will reduce traction but it might save a $35 drive shaft.
You can adjust other things to get some traction back.
Take the brace off and feel how soft it is, the 2016 part is much firmer even without the carbon sides that can be added.
So if you make the 2016 brace work it will be stiffer that whet your running now. When I get home tonight I will eye-ball it to see if it looks like it will work. I'll let you know later, after 7pm central.
You can add the short brace also.
Does your track have large jumps? Are the landing flat or are they easy to over jump?
Reason I ask is that is how I bent mine so I am looking to prevent it from bending on a large jump landing. If you didn't bend it because of a big landing we need to figure out what caused it and prevent it from happening.
Let us know what you think caused the bent drive line.
First of all, thank you for your availability.
Regarding how the drive bent, I guess a large contribution came from the fact that the chassis and the brace were warped already. How this happened is still a mistery to me. I did not crash, worst I do is bad landing moderate size jumps. Maybe it's just fatigue.
Anyway,I believe I bent the drive at this sunday race crashing from a very unusual angle: the main straight had a little ramp towards its end, just to complicate the braking. So to keep the car down during the long, fast but shallow airtime I braked too much and the car front flipped, sliding on its roof until the fence stopped it. The impact was hence at the wing, on the rear side. I hope I manage to explain myself. Definitely a funny crash (the crowd cheered).
Bottom line: I don't think that, outside very violent or weird crashes, the drives bend easily. However, the '15 rear brace is kinda weakand makes the whole rear flex a lot.
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:43 AM
  #1084  
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Originally Posted by RioImmagina
I use two screws only. The manual states that the extra screw is a tuning option to stiff the rear... Rear traction is already kinda low so I thought I did not need to decrease it further.
I'm trying to understand if the new rear brace would go on the 15 buggy, I'm sure I will need to change the bulkhead too. I'm willing to change the chassis as well, being mine badly bent. But it's not clear if all the rest will work on the new chassis.
This reads like a crash, not a flex tuning issue.

Old AE's and Mugens with similar long chassis braces, had bending and brace wear issues. Just the nature of the beast for long braces like the '16 car.

Crash less, or bottom out less. No amount of chassis bracing will make up for bent drive shafts and chassis'. That's more than what a brace can deal with.
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Old 09-26-2016, 01:33 PM
  #1085  
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect
This reads like a crash, not a flex tuning issue.

Old AE's and Mugens with similar long chassis braces, had bending and brace wear issues. Just the nature of the beast for long braces like the '16 car.

Crash less, or bottom out less. No amount of chassis bracing will make up for bent drive shafts and chassis'. That's more than what a brace can deal with.
You're definitely right, I still need to improve my driving skills... I was just checking the alternatives and I see that racing is harsh on the mechanic. I even considered to buy a new kit but meh, I fix the car (I love my car) and buy a new charger.
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Old 09-26-2016, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by RioImmagina
You're definitely right, I still need to improve my driving skills... I was just checking the alternatives and I see that racing is harsh on the mechanic. I even considered to buy a new kit but meh, I fix the car (I love my car) and buy a new charger.
yeah could wait until the 17 car is out anyway, i suspect it wont be a big upgrade from 16 but from 15 it will be good. im keeping my 16 car next season for sure...
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Old 09-29-2016, 08:45 AM
  #1087  
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something else to consider.. not only crashing.. but say.. shorting a jump.. landing on the top of the lander.. or nosing into the face of the landing jump can all contribute to this.
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Old 09-30-2016, 04:11 PM
  #1088  
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Considering the weight of this car, what ESC, motor, lipo combo's are you all running? I'd like to keep it light but is a 2s lipo and 4300kv enough power?

I'm getting back into this hobby after being in nitro for 20 years and have much to learn.
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Old 09-30-2016, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by captainplanet
Considering the weight of this car, what ESC, motor, lipo combo's are you all running? I'd like to keep it light but is a 2s lipo and 4300kv enough power?

I'm getting back into this hobby after being in nitro for 20 years and have much to learn.
I wouldn't run 2s unless there were no other options. I run 4s 6500mah with the hobbywing 1900 kv motor, no complaints. There is really no reason to try and make the car light unless you have to. The car itself is very very nimble...
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Old 10-01-2016, 07:00 AM
  #1090  
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4s is definitely the way to go. 2s 4300 or similar setups are hard on batteries and motors even in short course trucks. I have run mine 4s with 1900 and 2050. I and most everyone turns them down with dual rate on the radio to make them drivable. 1900 is certainly plenty of motor. I run mine between 85 and 90 percent everywhere I go.
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Old 10-12-2016, 05:22 AM
  #1091  
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Hello, I would like to participate to a rally game race this week end. Rules say that no asphalt tires allowed and no additives whatsoever. Only regular off road tires.
What kind of set up would you recommend to race on flat, a bit slippery tarmac? Like a starting point that I will try to improve along the race...
I thought to the most obvious stuff, like very low ride height, massive travel limiters, stiffer springs, lot of downforce, etc... but maybe I miss something! The car is the XB8e 2015
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Old 10-12-2016, 05:55 AM
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Stiffer sway bars. You can make your own from piano wire. Not certain how far you are willing to go but most rc road cars run a spool in the front but for lower traction conditions a gear diff is used. In any case firming up the diff oils would be on my list. Most of us have driven our buggies in the street a time or two and or typical off road tires have an amazing amount of bite but wear quickly. I would recommend the softest compound tire you have and once they get bald you should have a tire that will be pretty good.

Originally Posted by RioImmagina
Hello, I would like to participate to a rally game race this week end. Rules say that no asphalt tires allowed and no additives whatsoever. Only regular off road tires.
What kind of set up would you recommend to race on flat, a bit slippery tarmac? Like a starting point that I will try to improve along the race...
I thought to the most obvious stuff, like very low ride height, massive travel limiters, stiffer springs, lot of downforce, etc... but maybe I miss something! The car is the XB8e 2015
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Old 10-19-2016, 05:39 PM
  #1093  
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Originally Posted by Danger Dietrich
4s is definitely the way to go. 2s 4300 or similar setups are hard on batteries and motors even in short course trucks. I have run mine 4s with 1900 and 2050. I and most everyone turns them down with dual rate on the radio to make them drivable. 1900 is certainly plenty of motor. I run mine between 85 and 90 percent everywhere I go.
Make sense. Thanks for the advice. I may go for a smaller ESC to help with the weight but stlll can handle 4s.
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Old 10-23-2016, 06:11 AM
  #1094  
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Originally Posted by Danger Dietrich
Stiffer sway bars. You can make your own from piano wire. Not certain how far you are willing to go but most rc road cars run a spool in the front but for lower traction conditions a gear diff is used. In any case firming up the diff oils would be on my list. Most of us have driven our buggies in the street a time or two and or typical off road tires have an amazing amount of bite but wear quickly. I would recommend the softest compound tire you have and once they get bald you should have a tire that will be pretty good.
Sorry, I forgot to thank you. Race went ok (6th brushless, 15th absolute, no crashes). The tarmac was of the roller skating type, meaning very smooth and very slippery. Nothing but supersoft tires would work and they lasted one heat only, at least with my flat and stiff setup. Was an expensive race...
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Old 10-25-2016, 09:05 PM
  #1095  
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If you're searching for more grip/control try the front and rear graphite shock towers. The car was working great before the change, but now I feel like I've got the best car at the track. I'm not the fastest guy but the car is really helping me compete. Anyone know when the truggy will be out? I hear it's based on the buggy platform and I want it.
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