Wease

iTrader: (77)

I just checked my spare rear arms and you can't flip them from Right to Left and vice/versa because there is a sweep to the arms. So it must require some drilling for the lower shock mounting holes in order to mount the shocks to the front of the arms.

roysays

iTrader: (2)

Yes you can just drill a hole in the arm

rcmark17

iTrader: (13)

I agree looking at mine now you would have to drill out the arms

rcmark17

iTrader: (13)

would also suggest getting the Schelle steering kit it includes
1 bushings to raise or lower caster/steering block
2 axle shim
3 +1 carbon fiber steering plates

Wease

iTrader: (77)

I'm seeing another issue with putting the shocks on the front of the rear arms. If it's like the buggy counterpart, you need to mount the shock tower on the front of the lay down transmission, which moves everything about 5mm forward. That is going to throw off the location of the rear body mounts in relation to the body.

roysays

iTrader: (2)

Correct, you have to cut out the body in front of the shock humps.
You can switch to the new Losi 22T 4.0 body if you wanted, they have a larger shock hump on the body so you can put the shocks on the front of the arm on the Losi

Wease

iTrader: (77)

I finished my Exotek XT6 conversion last evening and the kit went together very well. I've not had a chance to put it on the track yet, but a few notes about this conversion and a couple of questions.

The instructions didn't call this out specifically, but I found I had to use the B6 servo mounts instead of the T5M servo mounts. The T5M servo mounts are several millimeters longer than the B6 servo mounts which was pushing the servo horn too far forward and hitting the steering rack. The B6 servo mounts pulled the servo back far enough that it wasn't contacting the rack.

I had to move the front mounting holes in my body back about a half inch, which the instructions did mention as a possibility.

In the rear you have to use the B6 ball cups because the 5mm carbon fiber shock tower is very close to the rear inner ball stud. The wider more square shaped B5/T5 ball cups would rub on the bottom of the shock tower. So I ended up using B6 ball cups on the entire car.

The instructions don't tell you which shock stand-offs to use, but it appears you could use either the B6 or T5M shock stand-offs. In an effort to use as many B6 parts as possible, I used my B6 shock stand-offs.

You don't use the metal front hinge pin spacer from the B6 kit. The instructions don't specifically call this out, but they do include two small shims to use on the back of the front arm to take up some of the gap between the T5M front arms and the B6 bulk-head.

I'm wondering if we could use the B6 steering and caster blocks? I believe the T5M front axle would fit, but I don't know if there would be any front axle height or off-set issues. The same question goes for the rear hubs. Would a B6 rear hub work with the T5M rear arms? It would be nice if the only T5M parts needed would be the arms, shocks, axles and drive shafts.

bobf24

iTrader: (28)

you need an axle spacer to use the B6 front hubs, read back and you will find that talked about a bunch of times, schelle makes a whole conversion kit thats pretty nice

Depending on your servo you can use the old B5 style servo mounts, I am using a savox with a jconcepts one piece b5 mount that I had from my old buggy, I'm just using no servo spacers and it fits fine.

You can use B5 rear hubs on a B6 so I can't see why you can't use B6 hubs on a B5/T5

jmoneym

iTrader: (357)

I'm using b6 steering on the Exotek conversion.

roysays

iTrader: (2)

Yes you can use the B6 rear hubs on the Exotek conversion and also on a regular T5M.

Wease

iTrader: (77)

Does anyone have a dirt set-up for the Exotek XT6 conversion using a lay-down transmission? I'm just looking for a starting point from someone who has actually tried it on dirt already. I'll be running on a Medium and a High grip surface, but I just need some idea's for a starting point. I'm already assuming this will make less grip than my T5M, and thus will probably need some changes to add some grip.

bobf24

iTrader: (28)

you could probably use a buggy set up for a similar track and be pretty close to start with.

Silberpfeil

Not to sure where to post this as it's mostly B6 but it'll end up using T5M arms etc.

Laid out above is everything used from a B6D kit that goes into the making of a T6.

Here's my build so far using the Vision Racing towers made by Jeff from up in Oregon.



-Jeremy

E-Mann

iTrader: (40)

Looks good! I have some build notes (using the vision towers) if you scroll back a few pages. One update and I would highly recommend
to anyone doing the exotek conversion as well: USE the metal spacer from the B6 bulkhead. I started with an alum bulkhead and plastic shims. I broke the bulkhead with a fairly light hit on the front arm. To use the metal spacer you need you grind down some plastic from the arms. It's worth the extra time.

If you are using B6 steeting and caster blocks you will need either an axel with wider hex or lunsford makes an axel just for this conversion. It's not on their site but if you call and ask for T6 axles they (or at least Kelly Lunsford) will know what you need.

Attached is a pic of the TLR 22T 3.0 body with shocks on the front of the rear tower. Fits great. I used 22T shock tower mounts in front but this works best when using the inner hole for shocks.

Rebuke

iTrader: (2)

I used the schelle conversion to use the T5M axles with the b6 steering on my exotek conversion and it seems to be holding up well so far also.