Jpdanger

I would guess and say Plan B's has to have about the same weight savings since the two products look nearly identical.

Braxamus

iTrader: (9)

Had a race last sat. on a med to high bite indoor track which is kept in pretty good condition, and is smooth. I had a setup I had got off line and had been adjusting it, as I just could not get it to turn as tight as others were, they could hug the inside corners where I had to take them outside because of lack of turning radius and a push, in the straight I can keep up with everyone else so I am losing it all in the turns. I am running the tire of choice for our track (dirt webs). After first qual. I re did the rear to the box setup with the exception of I run the brass D block. The front has 1mm spacers added under the turn buckles, and someone had told me to change the alum spacers on the steering. And I run the ride height at 28/30 and have the next lower spring on the front, stock is 3.6 I think if I remember correctly and I have the 3.3 For my next race I think I am going to go box setup on everything but the front springs I am going to leave the lighter ones on. What can I do at this point to help it turn better (tighter) it comes out of the corners nice and jumps nice its just that one point I seem to be having trouble. Also I do run some drag break does that help or not. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated in advance.

Jpdanger

The push depends on if you're on or off power. If it is an on power push, changes made to the rear of the car will increase steering. For off power, change the front. It'll be difficult to provide solutions without knowing whether it's on or off power, but I can tell you if you're pushing it is probably because one end is too stiff. You say you're having to enter the turn wide, you probably have an off power push and should softer the front spring or moving the shocks inward will also decrease overall dampening.

I would recommend checking out "Process to setup a car" at petitrc and print the pdf at the bottom for your toolbox. It gives you just about everything problem and possible solutions to correct.

Cerevo

Try a little bit of toe in on the front. That should help your turn in. Not a lot, half turn on each turnbuckle should be noticeable. Also what he said^^^

Braxamus

iTrader: (9)

For the most part it would be off power, I tend to forget about using the breaks, and letting off the throttle at entry, so that is why I started setting a drag break.

sduffy77

iTrader: (24)

^^ THIS

Cerevo

This is also a good guide I've been reading through a few times since getting back into R/C.

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...HandbookV2.pdf

Jpdanger

If you "tend to forget about using the breaks, and letting off the throttle at entry," the only advice I can give you is to not forget about the throttle. If you aren't slowing down sufficiently, there is nothing you can do to your car to correct this and it will push through every turn.

Have you tried increasing your ESC's neutral deadband? I run with a lot of drag brake and a high neutral deadband. I don't have the dexterity to go back and forth between the throttle and brake, but I am pretty good and small fine movements. I set a large deadband (@12%) and high drag brake (@20%), so that I come off the throttle enough to hit the deadband which engages the drag brake. If you decide to try this method, adjust your Tx's expo so that it eases the power output and the low end.

Regarding your push, there's quite a few things you do to over off power understeer. The easiest would be to buy softer front springs or move the front shocks inward to soften dampening. Where are you placing your battery? Moving the battery forward will increase turn in, but too much forward and you sacrifice forward traction and/or suffer from oversteer.

Don't add toe in. You use toe in if you're oversteering. Toe in calms the car, provides stability, and makes it easier to drive, but making it easier to drive can lead to understeer. With a push you want to add toe out. It references this in the "Process to setup a car" I suggested you print. Also, Hudy's Off-Road Setup Book is a great reference as to the many different tuning options and their effect on the car.

FPMX772

For those of you who run the X factory or the Plan B RC chassis, do you guys feel its is a must? I run 13.5 with Ti turnbuckles and screw kits on high bite indoor clay with slicks and i have this think on rails right now.

Braxamus

iTrader: (9)

I run my battery (square pack) forward. My dead band is set at 6%

GSXS

Hey guys, I want to take shoehorn a 3s lipo into the T5M for some speed passes. Is there any that will fit? I find battery options are limited due to mid-motor mount..

Thanks!

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

This is going to sound crazy but they have 4s shortys....

Jpdanger

No. It's not a must, but my local track has jumps that can be very challenging for 17.5 truck. The lighter chassis makes it easier to clear the jumps. For 13.5, I don't think it would be worth the money for the fraction of a second it may save. Besides, you'd have to reconfigure your Setup to compensate for the rather large reduction in weight.

GSXS

I can't seem to find them anywhere I look! Do you know anyone in particular who makes one?

I can only find the squares and shorties in 2s atm..

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=202