Team Associated T5M Discussion
#1907
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
maybe try to lengthen the rear camber links to mellow out the rear. I somewhat had the same problem. I lengthened the rear camber links, went with 35 front and 30 rear oil, reduced D/R and went 1 degree front and rear. Also I'm running 27 height front and rear. hope this helps.
#1908
Tech Rookie
My truck was doing the same thing as well. I found a couple of things wrong, first the camber links were still very stiff even after squeezing them with the pliers and I had mis-built build one of the steering spindles (one side had 2 trailing axle and the other four). After this the truck was a lot better, just a thought on some things to check.
#1909
I am having a terrible time with my T5M so far. At first I thought I had a bad kit but my buddy just built and ran his and it was doing the same thing. Basically what happens is as if you turn into a corner about midway through the corner (and not every time either) it will just loop out and spin all the way around. The truck has so much mid corner steering its crazy and I have tried everything to get rid of it. Stiffer front spring. All kinds of things to the rear to gain more rear traction to take steering away. 30* kick up with 0* inserts. The only thing that stopped it was Clay fronts with SS rears. I am totally lost.
Setup is as follows:
Stock setup in the front other than 3 limiters vs 2 and 1.5mm on the front tower.
Rear is stock other than 1 limiter 30 wt and kyosho gold springs, 3.5*s of toe with the 20 gram brass C block, arms spaced forward, middle camber link.
Ride height is 30/29 even tried 29/29
Tires are SS chainlinks all around.
Idk if this is the right place to ask but I am absolutely stumped and I think I am pretty good at setup.
Any help is appreciated.
Setup is as follows:
Stock setup in the front other than 3 limiters vs 2 and 1.5mm on the front tower.
Rear is stock other than 1 limiter 30 wt and kyosho gold springs, 3.5*s of toe with the 20 gram brass C block, arms spaced forward, middle camber link.
Ride height is 30/29 even tried 29/29
Tires are SS chainlinks all around.
Idk if this is the right place to ask but I am absolutely stumped and I think I am pretty good at setup.
Any help is appreciated.
Was having a similar issue. I went short wheelbase, in on the rear tower top.
If still having an issue after that you can stiffen the frt spring and oil so less weight transfers to the front.
Are you running shorty pack or saddle/square pack?
Can also run a smaller spur gear to move the motor back to add more wieght over the rear.
Adding ackerman will also reduce your steering as well.
#1910
A couple things you can try.
Double check your running 4mm trailing instead of 2 (big difference!)
Raise front axle
Move in front shocks
Make sure diff is set correctly, and you have the proper ride height. 28/28 is usually a good starting point.
Double check your running 4mm trailing instead of 2 (big difference!)
Raise front axle
Move in front shocks
Make sure diff is set correctly, and you have the proper ride height. 28/28 is usually a good starting point.
#1911
Need a little help. On my T5M I'm running a hobbywing just stock esc and reedy mach 2 13.5 with 26/78 gears. The motor runs extremely hot though. I don't know exactly how hot but too hot to touch. Some people have been telling me that reedys run hot like that. My motor heats up with 5 laps to burning hot. Any help is much appreciated.
#1912
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
Need a little help. On my T5M I'm running a hobbywing just stock esc and reedy mach 2 13.5 with 26/78 gears. The motor runs extremely hot though. I don't know exactly how hot but too hot to touch. Some people have been telling me that reedys run hot like that. My motor heats up with 5 laps to burning hot. Any help is much appreciated.
#1913
Thank you for the tips/help. I'll get a temp gun. Esc is not hot. Tried different gearing and cleaned all gears. Everything is brand new. My 17.5 motor on my buggy was 152 degrees the other day so I know what that felt like. The reedy13.5 was much hotter feeling. But like you said I need to get a temp gun. Thanks again.
#1914
Raising the front axle will give me more steering so I am going to assume you meant lower the front axle and yes my buddy did this and it deff helped the truck. I have to get the spacers to do it and trust me everything on my kit is built correctly I am extremely meticulous when it comes to building kits.
#1915
Raising the front axle will give me more steering so I am going to assume you meant lower the front axle and yes my buddy did this and it deff helped the truck. I have to get the spacers to do it and trust me everything on my kit is built correctly I am extremely meticulous when it comes to building kits.
#1917
#1919
Yes I run mine like this. If you're running indoor with good grip, not needed. I've run on a couple outdoor tracks recently and run my arms forward. I wouldn't change it back! My outdoor tracks are lower grip, running JC flip outs at one and Goosebumps at the other... Old school outdoor. Trucks been great!!
Any way you could post a setup. Been runnin my t4 on an outdoor track and have been slowly puttin my t5 together. I have been runnin flipouts or double dees on the buggy. I figured the kit setup would be good, but I didn't know if there was any minor changes to make for a bit looser/loamy track. Thanks
Travis
#1920
Hey Adam,
Any way you could post a setup. Been runnin my t4 on an outdoor track and have been slowly puttin my t5 together. I have been runnin flipouts or double dees on the buggy. I figured the kit setup would be good, but I didn't know if there was any minor changes to make for a bit looser/loamy track. Thanks
Travis
Any way you could post a setup. Been runnin my t4 on an outdoor track and have been slowly puttin my t5 together. I have been runnin flipouts or double dees on the buggy. I figured the kit setup would be good, but I didn't know if there was any minor changes to make for a bit looser/loamy track. Thanks
Travis
Front:
1.5 tapered 35oil 26.5 droop blue spring.
Middle tower out on arm
2mm under camber link
Rear:
1.6 tapered 30oil 36.5 droop white spring
Inside tower middle on arm
3mm under inside ballstud
Plastic hubs with .5 toe insert
2 hole link in the outside hole
Hubs middle/arms forward
Brass C and D mounts 3/1 insert
Plastic behind servo dremeled out
Plastic under the waterfall dremeled out
3pad vts slipper (I also highly recommend 2 pad slipper
With vented plates and hi torq AE pads with V2 spring
Reedy 5200 square lipo all the way back
Reedy 6.5 17/84
14awg wire on esc
Anything I didn't mention is kit setting.