Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread
#811
Tech Fanatic
I'm aware I'm doing it wrong, but my best efforts yield trashed diffs with a 17.5 on clay with slipper nut loose as much as possible. So I'm going to run something with a gear diff.
Yes this time it was too loose. It was barking a whole pack before I noticed. I followed the instructions in the bag exactly, but apparently that ends up being too loose.
Now it feels like a ratchet and tightening it enough to not bark it might as well be a spool, in that it doesn't diff at all, spinning one tire spins the motor and the other wheel the same way. I'm sure there are flat spots on all the bearings.
I don't have the time or money to waste on diffs that I am incapable of adjusting or maintaining for an imperceptible gain in performance. I'd rather spend the time on-track, and the money on tires.
Anyone know when the gear diff will come out?
Yes this time it was too loose. It was barking a whole pack before I noticed. I followed the instructions in the bag exactly, but apparently that ends up being too loose.
Now it feels like a ratchet and tightening it enough to not bark it might as well be a spool, in that it doesn't diff at all, spinning one tire spins the motor and the other wheel the same way. I'm sure there are flat spots on all the bearings.
I don't have the time or money to waste on diffs that I am incapable of adjusting or maintaining for an imperceptible gain in performance. I'd rather spend the time on-track, and the money on tires.
Anyone know when the gear diff will come out?
#812
I'm aware I'm doing it wrong, but my best efforts yield trashed diffs with a 17.5 on clay with slipper nut loose as much as possible. So I'm going to run something with a gear diff.
Yes this time it was too loose. It was barking a whole pack before I noticed. I followed the instructions in the bag exactly, but apparently that ends up being too loose.
Now it feels like a ratchet and tightening it enough to not bark it might as well be a spool, in that it doesn't diff at all, spinning one tire spins the motor and the other wheel the same way. I'm sure there are flat spots on all the bearings.
I don't have the time or money to waste on diffs that I am incapable of adjusting or maintaining for an imperceptible gain in performance. I'd rather spend the time on-track, and the money on tires.
Anyone know when the gear diff will come out?
Yes this time it was too loose. It was barking a whole pack before I noticed. I followed the instructions in the bag exactly, but apparently that ends up being too loose.
Now it feels like a ratchet and tightening it enough to not bark it might as well be a spool, in that it doesn't diff at all, spinning one tire spins the motor and the other wheel the same way. I'm sure there are flat spots on all the bearings.
I don't have the time or money to waste on diffs that I am incapable of adjusting or maintaining for an imperceptible gain in performance. I'd rather spend the time on-track, and the money on tires.
Anyone know when the gear diff will come out?
I'll gladly rebuild your diff for free if you send it to me and you wont have any problems in the future and be able to run your car. (dont anyone else get any bright ideas) Email me if you are interested in the offer [email protected]
#813
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
If you are coming to Shawnee on Tuesday, you are welcome to try my car. I took your spring settings and went back to 2 down. When I tried it at Shawnee it would not hook up. I haven't tried it at Fastlane though, and admittadley that place has a lot more traction.
Chris
#814
That's a Great offer on that Ball Diff Chicky. Hope he takes you up on it.
I am building my MM this week. To date I haven't seen any build tips with the whole kit. I have a bit of time to build this thing so I plan go into detail on areas guys struggle with. Here is areas I plan to cover, if you guys have areas of question with this kit post up and I will be sure to cover them on my build.
1-Ball Diff.
2- Top Shock Seals
3- Bottom Shock Seals.
4- Ball Ends and Studs
5- metal to metal areas to make sure and locktite.
6- proper servo horn and rack assembly to get equal right and left trims.
Not sure if I will do video or just pictures.
I am building my MM this week. To date I haven't seen any build tips with the whole kit. I have a bit of time to build this thing so I plan go into detail on areas guys struggle with. Here is areas I plan to cover, if you guys have areas of question with this kit post up and I will be sure to cover them on my build.
1-Ball Diff.
2- Top Shock Seals
3- Bottom Shock Seals.
4- Ball Ends and Studs
5- metal to metal areas to make sure and locktite.
6- proper servo horn and rack assembly to get equal right and left trims.
Not sure if I will do video or just pictures.
Last edited by rider313; 02-24-2014 at 10:04 AM.
#815
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
The gear diff will be about a month or so.
I'll gladly rebuild your diff for free if you send it to me and you wont have any problems in the future and be able to run your car. (dont anyone else get any bright ideas) Email me if you are interested in the offer [email protected]
I'll gladly rebuild your diff for free if you send it to me and you wont have any problems in the future and be able to run your car. (dont anyone else get any bright ideas) Email me if you are interested in the offer [email protected]
I am not experienced with ball diffs at all (coming from the gear diff TC world), but I have been fine as well. I watched several of the videos on it, read the thread on RCTech, and got some advice from other Spyder drivers, and it has been working well in my RM.
Just got my MM kit, and will be building this week. Helped another driver with his over the weekend. Traction was low, after a layout change. He had kit setup but low diff. I think the shorty pack, 7.5 motor, and his nitro throttle finger were the primary issues though. Car jumped very well, though it appeared to tail slap even on small jumps when flat landing.
It is tough, as conditions will be changing as the track hardens, and anything setup today probably will not work next week.
#816
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Our First Serpent
Just about finished with our new SRX-2 MM. In fact this is our first Serpent ever. Very nice build. A little tinkering with the steering servo spacing but other than that very nice and solid. All stock setup to start with and will go from there. Testing begins this week and first race Sat.
Thanks Serpent
Thanks Serpent
#817
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
My horn is angled to the left and I have a gap of about 3-3.5mm between the 2 rod links. When I first built my kit by the manual the end points were off but I adjusted the link and they are even now. BLS451 servo 4pkS radio. I'm at 120L 120R.
I'm guessing you need to move the servo horn one spline to the left and shorten up the link. Make sure you adjust the sub trim first to get the wheels straight and then do the end points.
I'm guessing you need to move the servo horn one spline to the left and shorten up the link. Make sure you adjust the sub trim first to get the wheels straight and then do the end points.
I'm going to redo my steering tonight but the block to me seems to be the chassis post on the right side of the car. I'm planning set the servo horn so I get closest to the chassis post then sub trim to max out the range to the right. Once I have the horn set, I'll adjust the rack to be straight at this servo setting. If my endpoints are still way off, I'll have to adjust and try again.
#818
What's your EPA set at?
These two posts confuse me. I know that you're both using the same servo and the same radio.
I'm going to redo my steering tonight but the block to me seems to be the chassis post on the right side of the car. I'm planning set the servo horn so I get closest to the chassis post then sub trim to max out the range to the right. Once I have the horn set, I'll adjust the rack to be straight at this servo setting. If my endpoints are still way off, I'll have to adjust and try again.
These two posts confuse me. I know that you're both using the same servo and the same radio.
I'm going to redo my steering tonight but the block to me seems to be the chassis post on the right side of the car. I'm planning set the servo horn so I get closest to the chassis post then sub trim to max out the range to the right. Once I have the horn set, I'll adjust the rack to be straight at this servo setting. If my endpoints are still way off, I'll have to adjust and try again.
#819
Tech Champion
iTrader: (44)
Just about finished with our new SRX-2 MM. In fact this is our first Serpent ever. Very nice build. A little tinkering with the steering servo spacing but other than that very nice and solid. All stock setup to start with and will go from there. Testing begins this week and first race Sat.
Thanks Serpent
Thanks Serpent
#820
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
If your epa to the right happens to be 90 and the left is 110 you need to adjust the horn or link so the rack turns more left. Then at 110 it will turn too much to the left and you have to reduce it, then you are going to have to put more right epa in. Thats probably the best way I can explain it.
#821
I get that. The confusion is that you and Jonny are both running the same radio/servo. Jonny's set a little to the left and has an EPA of less than 120. You're set a bit to the right with an EPA of 120. Servo right is buggy left, so you must be going past full lock to the left. Unless you're using a servo horn that the rest of us don't have access to
My left tie rod is about .025-.030 longer than my right also.
When I say left and right it is if you were sitting in the car driving it.
#822
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Just did a short video on how I bleed my SRX2 shocks...someone was having issues on the RM thread with oil coming out of the vent hole in the cap. Thought I would post a link here in case anyone had issues bleeding their shocks..http://youtu.be/GLuha999tyg
#824
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
David
If you are coming to Shawnee on Tuesday, you are welcome to try my car. I took your spring settings and went back to 2 down. When I tried it at Shawnee it would not hook up. I haven't tried it at Fastlane though, and admittadley that place has a lot more traction.
Chris
If you are coming to Shawnee on Tuesday, you are welcome to try my car. I took your spring settings and went back to 2 down. When I tried it at Shawnee it would not hook up. I haven't tried it at Fastlane though, and admittadley that place has a lot more traction.
Chris
I used a bfast diff just because my LHS had a kit in stock and it was butter. I will probably never touch it until the outdrives wear out, LOL. My rear motor I used stock parts and it was really good. I made it all the way tight, then ran it for 2 minutes and then tightened it a little more then it was perfect. I did back it off a little and I think too much and I barked it a few times and it hurt my thrust balls. That is pretty commonly overlooked on diff rebuilds, so always check that as well.
#825
Tech Fanatic
The gear diff will be about a month or so.
I'll gladly rebuild your diff for free if you send it to me and you wont have any problems in the future and be able to run your car. (dont anyone else get any bright ideas) Email me if you are interested in the offer [email protected]
I'll gladly rebuild your diff for free if you send it to me and you wont have any problems in the future and be able to run your car. (dont anyone else get any bright ideas) Email me if you are interested in the offer [email protected]
Last edited by rallyredevo; 02-25-2014 at 12:26 AM.