Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread >

Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree2Likes

Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-24-2014, 06:02 AM
  #811  
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 782
Default

I'm aware I'm doing it wrong, but my best efforts yield trashed diffs with a 17.5 on clay with slipper nut loose as much as possible. So I'm going to run something with a gear diff.

Yes this time it was too loose. It was barking a whole pack before I noticed. I followed the instructions in the bag exactly, but apparently that ends up being too loose.

Now it feels like a ratchet and tightening it enough to not bark it might as well be a spool, in that it doesn't diff at all, spinning one tire spins the motor and the other wheel the same way. I'm sure there are flat spots on all the bearings.

I don't have the time or money to waste on diffs that I am incapable of adjusting or maintaining for an imperceptible gain in performance. I'd rather spend the time on-track, and the money on tires.

Anyone know when the gear diff will come out?
rallyredevo is offline  
Old 02-24-2014, 06:37 AM
  #812  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
chicky03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,994
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rallyredevo
I'm aware I'm doing it wrong, but my best efforts yield trashed diffs with a 17.5 on clay with slipper nut loose as much as possible. So I'm going to run something with a gear diff.

Yes this time it was too loose. It was barking a whole pack before I noticed. I followed the instructions in the bag exactly, but apparently that ends up being too loose.

Now it feels like a ratchet and tightening it enough to not bark it might as well be a spool, in that it doesn't diff at all, spinning one tire spins the motor and the other wheel the same way. I'm sure there are flat spots on all the bearings.

I don't have the time or money to waste on diffs that I am incapable of adjusting or maintaining for an imperceptible gain in performance. I'd rather spend the time on-track, and the money on tires.

Anyone know when the gear diff will come out?
The gear diff will be about a month or so.

I'll gladly rebuild your diff for free if you send it to me and you wont have any problems in the future and be able to run your car. (dont anyone else get any bright ideas) Email me if you are interested in the offer [email protected]
chicky03 is offline  
Old 02-24-2014, 06:59 AM
  #813  
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 45
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by David Alberico
Has someone tried 2 down roll center compared to 0 down back to back? Just curious. My car has been so good no modivation to touch it
David

If you are coming to Shawnee on Tuesday, you are welcome to try my car. I took your spring settings and went back to 2 down. When I tried it at Shawnee it would not hook up. I haven't tried it at Fastlane though, and admittadley that place has a lot more traction.

Chris
Chris K. is offline  
Old 02-24-2014, 07:12 AM
  #814  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (94)
 
rider313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 4,436
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Default

That's a Great offer on that Ball Diff Chicky. Hope he takes you up on it.

I am building my MM this week. To date I haven't seen any build tips with the whole kit. I have a bit of time to build this thing so I plan go into detail on areas guys struggle with. Here is areas I plan to cover, if you guys have areas of question with this kit post up and I will be sure to cover them on my build.

1-Ball Diff.
2- Top Shock Seals
3- Bottom Shock Seals.
4- Ball Ends and Studs
5- metal to metal areas to make sure and locktite.
6- proper servo horn and rack assembly to get equal right and left trims.

Not sure if I will do video or just pictures.

Last edited by rider313; 02-24-2014 at 10:04 AM.
rider313 is offline  
Old 02-24-2014, 07:34 AM
  #815  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
 
orcadigital's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 2,183
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by chicky03
The gear diff will be about a month or so.

I'll gladly rebuild your diff for free if you send it to me and you wont have any problems in the future and be able to run your car. (dont anyone else get any bright ideas) Email me if you are interested in the offer [email protected]
Mine too!

I am not experienced with ball diffs at all (coming from the gear diff TC world), but I have been fine as well. I watched several of the videos on it, read the thread on RCTech, and got some advice from other Spyder drivers, and it has been working well in my RM.

Just got my MM kit, and will be building this week. Helped another driver with his over the weekend. Traction was low, after a layout change. He had kit setup but low diff. I think the shorty pack, 7.5 motor, and his nitro throttle finger were the primary issues though. Car jumped very well, though it appeared to tail slap even on small jumps when flat landing.

It is tough, as conditions will be changing as the track hardens, and anything setup today probably will not work next week.
orcadigital is offline  
Old 02-24-2014, 08:50 AM
  #816  
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Owensboro KY
Posts: 1,175
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default Our First Serpent

Just about finished with our new SRX-2 MM. In fact this is our first Serpent ever. Very nice build. A little tinkering with the steering servo spacing but other than that very nice and solid. All stock setup to start with and will go from there. Testing begins this week and first race Sat.

Thanks Serpent
Attached Thumbnails Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread-serpent-1.jpg   Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread-serpent-2.jpg  
jeff whiting is offline  
Old 02-24-2014, 08:56 AM
  #817  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 3,673
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jonny5
Sorry I missed this, the gap between the links is 4.4mm. Also, when viewing from the rear, the servo arm is at about 11:30 in comparison to a clock when the rack is centered.
What's your EPA set at?

Originally Posted by chicky03
My horn is angled to the left and I have a gap of about 3-3.5mm between the 2 rod links. When I first built my kit by the manual the end points were off but I adjusted the link and they are even now. BLS451 servo 4pkS radio. I'm at 120L 120R.

I'm guessing you need to move the servo horn one spline to the left and shorten up the link. Make sure you adjust the sub trim first to get the wheels straight and then do the end points.
These two posts confuse me. I know that you're both using the same servo and the same radio.

I'm going to redo my steering tonight but the block to me seems to be the chassis post on the right side of the car. I'm planning set the servo horn so I get closest to the chassis post then sub trim to max out the range to the right. Once I have the horn set, I'll adjust the rack to be straight at this servo setting. If my endpoints are still way off, I'll have to adjust and try again.
shagino is offline  
Old 02-24-2014, 09:33 AM
  #818  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
chicky03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,994
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by shagino
What's your EPA set at?



These two posts confuse me. I know that you're both using the same servo and the same radio.

I'm going to redo my steering tonight but the block to me seems to be the chassis post on the right side of the car. I'm planning set the servo horn so I get closest to the chassis post then sub trim to max out the range to the right. Once I have the horn set, I'll adjust the rack to be straight at this servo setting. If my endpoints are still way off, I'll have to adjust and try again.
If your epa to the right happens to be 90 and the left is 110 you need to adjust the horn or link so the rack turns more left. Then at 110 it will turn too much to the left and you have to reduce it, then you are going to have to put more right epa in. Thats probably the best way I can explain it.
chicky03 is offline  
Old 02-24-2014, 09:37 AM
  #819  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (44)
 
FastPete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Orland Park IL
Posts: 5,311
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jeff whiting
Just about finished with our new SRX-2 MM. In fact this is our first Serpent ever. Very nice build. A little tinkering with the steering servo spacing but other than that very nice and solid. All stock setup to start with and will go from there. Testing begins this week and first race Sat.

Thanks Serpent
Very nice
FastPete is offline  
Old 02-24-2014, 11:21 AM
  #820  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 3,673
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by chicky03
If your epa to the right happens to be 90 and the left is 110 you need to adjust the horn or link so the rack turns more left. Then at 110 it will turn too much to the left and you have to reduce it, then you are going to have to put more right epa in. Thats probably the best way I can explain it.
I get that. The confusion is that you and Jonny are both running the same radio/servo. Jonny's set a little to the left and has an EPA of less than 120. You're set a bit to the right with an EPA of 120. Servo right is buggy left, so you must be going past full lock to the left. Unless you're using a servo horn that the rest of us don't have access to
shagino is offline  
Old 02-24-2014, 12:18 PM
  #821  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
chicky03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,994
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by shagino
I get that. The confusion is that you and Jonny are both running the same radio/servo. Jonny's set a little to the left and has an EPA of less than 120. You're set a bit to the right with an EPA of 120. Servo right is buggy left, so you must be going past full lock to the left. Unless you're using a servo horn that the rest of us don't have access to
mine is angled to the left, same servo horn that comes in the kit.

My left tie rod is about .025-.030 longer than my right also.

When I say left and right it is if you were sitting in the car driving it.
chicky03 is offline  
Old 02-24-2014, 01:01 PM
  #822  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
hopsing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 1,169
Trader Rating: 13 (93%+)
Default

Just did a short video on how I bleed my SRX2 shocks...someone was having issues on the RM thread with oil coming out of the vent hole in the cap. Thought I would post a link here in case anyone had issues bleeding their shocks..http://youtu.be/GLuha999tyg
hopsing is offline  
Old 02-24-2014, 01:11 PM
  #823  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 3,673
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by chicky03
mine is angled to the left, same servo horn that comes in the kit.

My left tie rod is about .025-.030 longer than my right also.

When I say left and right it is if you were sitting in the car driving it.
Gotcha. Thanks. You and Jonny are setup similarly so that makes a bit more sense now. The original question was asked from a facing the servo perspective so Jonny said his was the the right.
shagino is offline  
Old 02-24-2014, 01:20 PM
  #824  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,463
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Chris K.
David

If you are coming to Shawnee on Tuesday, you are welcome to try my car. I took your spring settings and went back to 2 down. When I tried it at Shawnee it would not hook up. I haven't tried it at Fastlane though, and admittadley that place has a lot more traction.

Chris
I can come up and take a look. I ran my car with the setup on petitrc. at shawnee saturday. actually minus 1mm washer on the front ball stud and my car has very good traction and very good steering, it is actually neutral, easy to drive. Track was dry probably the lowest traction I've run on with the car and it is still locked in all the way around.

I used a bfast diff just because my LHS had a kit in stock and it was butter. I will probably never touch it until the outdrives wear out, LOL. My rear motor I used stock parts and it was really good. I made it all the way tight, then ran it for 2 minutes and then tightened it a little more then it was perfect. I did back it off a little and I think too much and I barked it a few times and it hurt my thrust balls. That is pretty commonly overlooked on diff rebuilds, so always check that as well.
David Alberico is offline  
Old 02-25-2014, 12:13 AM
  #825  
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 782
Default

Originally Posted by chicky03
The gear diff will be about a month or so.

I'll gladly rebuild your diff for free if you send it to me and you wont have any problems in the future and be able to run your car. (dont anyone else get any bright ideas) Email me if you are interested in the offer [email protected]
Wow thanks for the offer! I'll just wait for the gear diff though since its only a month or so out. I like gear diffs.

Last edited by rallyredevo; 02-25-2014 at 12:26 AM.
rallyredevo is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.