twisted

iTrader: (13)

I just picked up one of these very unique cars and was wondering if anyone could share some of the weak points with me? also any tips? I know that this thread prolly has them all but honestly iI have no time to read 75+ pages of comments.

Thanks.

joedeman1969

iTrader: (18)

I am also thinking about picking this up. I hear they are kinda brittle. Any thoughts on that?

Riverbluff

I know my KR is very solid. I had 2 parts fail very quickly after the build but I replaced them and it has been just a solid as anything else at the track. I think it was just a couple bad parts as I read several folks had the same parts fail at about the same time I did. I've been running my KR for about a year now and I have only had one front arm, one front hub carrier and one front bulkhead break. All three were 100% expected as they were the result of pretty good crashes.

The KF uses some of the same parts or very similar ones.

After a year the car is still as tight as when it was new.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

Lower and upper bulkheads. Also plastic steering arms break when you clip a pipe HARD. the car is pretty solid but I've had my fair share of crashes.

Silberpfeil

In about 5 months of running my car on an indoor track where there's no run off and you hit boards and the faces of jumps often, I've only broken one steering knuckle and cracked a lower front bulkhead. By far the strongest car I've ever driven.

-Jeremy

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

Brittle? Hardly

twisted

iTrader: (13)

i ran mine yesterday for the first time and it was loose. iam running on a short pile astro turf track that is at a sports complex.the problem is the track has a synthetic sand mixed into the turf.not alot but its there. it gets worked out of the grooves after the 1st heat.

the car wanted to snap turn coming out of corners. i had the stock kit set up. ended up changing oil in diff to lighter, raised the pins in the rear and also made the rear camber links shorter. it was better but still did that snap turn. iam also running schumacher mini spikes.
i dont quite understand how to change the rear toe in. do you add washers behind the rear mount?

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

Yes you ca add washers to the rear mount to add toe in.... are you running the low grip conversion or stock chassis layout? saddle packs or shorty? Tell us more about your setup so we can offer some tips to try next time

twisted

iTrader: (13)

stock chassis layout,saddle packs,13.5,green schumacher mini spikes and stock kit set up.

changed out stock diff oil out. went from 125000 cts to durango gear grease. feels close to a ball diff,also running red orings in diff. running stock 35wt oil and stock pistons and springs all around.went up on pin mounting holes in rear,moved upper rear shock mounts all the way in and out on arm.front shock mounts are all stock.rear camber link is short now and all the way in on hub. also moved to short wheel base. car drove better but rear end would still snap around if i didnt baby it.

i went and bought some 4mm washers tonight but unsure how many to add to add a degree of toe in. sounds rudimentary but i was going to match the thickness of stacked washers to a degree on a camber gauge... then use those washers on the rear pivot hanger.

thanks for the help.

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

Ways Ive found more grip on my KF:

First and foremost the biggest difference is the low grip conversion

drill pistons to 1.6 holes
reduce ant squat
add rear toe in
lay rear shocks down
lay front shocks down
lower front steering knuckle
raise ride height
lengthen and raise inner link on rear
move shocks to rear of arms

There's quite a bit of things to experiment with to add grip

twisted

iTrader: (13)

thanks for the tips. is the reason to move the shocks back to put more weigh in rear?

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

moving the shocks to the rear will slow down the "snappyness" of the rear end. It makes it have more of a plush feel. just what Tony said drill out the rear pistons to 1.6mm and the car will not have any issues of it bouncing when it lands. We have 6 KF's now at our local track and we all did this to our pistons and its an instant difference (rear traction help)

I personally like 37.5F and 35R with black fronts and green rear springs. Invest in the core spring kits when you can.

what front tires are you using? to much front can of course take away your rear traction.

Also make sure no parts are bent, bound up, or even broken.

Badger5

Are Schumacher greens the tyre of choice for your track? Is the track indoors or out? I would go to yellows if the track is dry. I know greens are harder than yellows but the compound is different. We find with rear tyres on astro the following;

Schumacher Blues, will work when dry and grip is very good, not as quick as yellows.
Yellows, go to tyre for dry track.
Schumacher Green, can work if the track is greasy but not wet but drying out. Not popular though.
Schumacher Silvers, can work in the wet but not as good as Ballistic Buggy Greens.
Ballistic Buggy Greens, go to tyre for wet/cold/greasy track, will work in the dry but wear too high and not as quick as Schuey Yellows.
Ballistic Buggy Whites, work when the track is drying.

I only really use Schuey Yellows or BB Greens.

twisted

iTrader: (13)

im using schumacher mini spikes in the green compound. i thought about triming off the outer spikes to reduce the front end bite.

the track is indoors and has a light mix of sand in it. any of you guys flipping the front arms?

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

when I first had my kit I was using the front arms flipped. The setup I had wasnt good for my driving style. I then tried Carsons set up and it was spot on. Can I tell you the difference NOPE... but its worth experimenting.