fivepointnine

iTrader: (15)

Low grip chassis was huge success. I made no changes besides springs, 1.6 pistons and shock oil (and the LGC conversion) I picked up 2 full laps on a 7 minute main and ran a full second a lap faster on the same track, same conditions from last week. My top 10 lap average time was faster than last weeks fast lap!

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

Told ya so lol jk

Good to hear

travisbickle198

Hi folks, I've been racing 2wd for just over a year now. I've been running a durango 210 but I've not been happy with the build quality so am considering a KF.

A question regarding the low grip conversion, if I buy the low grip conversion u4586 do I still need to buy the shorty conversion kit u4456?

I will be racing at TORCH so would Tom Cockerills setup on petit RC for TORCH from May 2014 be a good place to start?

Thanks in advance 😄

leongkc

iTrader: (9)

If you buy the U4586 and using the rearward motor configuration, you don't need the shorty conversion at all. This configuration requires you to use shorty anyway and the belt supplied is for that purpose.

travisbickle198

Thanks for the quick reply, that's good to know and will save me £15.

travisbickle198

I notice on Tom Cockerill's setup sheet for TORCH he is using U4068 driveshafts. Is anybody able to tell me the reason for this?

shannow

iTrader: (1)

You meant U4069 ? U4068 are the decals.
Mechanically I see no reason, they're both universal joint.
The only reason I see why the kr has this rather than the ones on the kf is probably because the kr one's are dismantable and can be cleaned or repaired. The kf drive shaft can't be dismantled (easily at least) and are tougher (material around the pins is more important).

Jonathan

travisbickle198

Yes u4069 is what I meant to write. I just wanted to check that they were not longer or different in some way and they were not essential the particular setup that he's using.

Thanks 😃

leongkc

iTrader: (9)

I have asked this question before.
U4069 are the KR driveshafts. They are the CVA/CVD style driveshafts. The stock KF ones, that are also on the K1, are the universal style joints.

The CVA style offers more straight-line drive especially if the track is smooth. On bumpier tracks, the Unis are more forgiving. Tested it, and I still prefer the Unis on my local track.

However, do note the KR driveshafts are 2-3mm longer. Just be careful when setting droop with the stock shafts and ensure the shafts can stay engaged. A bad landing can cause the shaft to pop off the drive cup.

fivepointnine

iTrader: (15)

I run full droop on my KF and never popped a drive shaft

Badger5

Toms set up sheet would be a good starting point. I'm not sure about all the weight that he's added, some of us run the TrishBits weights that sit in front of the Lipos, but this is down to personal choice. The front springs Tom was running are pretty stiff, this will give a lot of steering. Some do run the 4.5lb Schuey springs on the front but others run the Core RC ones which tend to make the car more forgiving. I run blue on the front and green or blue on the rear. 10k or 20k diff oil is good, less gives you more steering. I don't know anyone who runs the KR driveshafts at Torch. Keeping to the standard plastic rear suspension hangers may be good to start with.

Many of us at Torch race KF's so you won't be short of set up help. Have you raced elsewhere?

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

A cvd style of driveshaft will cause more bind on the rear of the car, resulting in more rear grip. Mostly forward grip. Universals run much "free'r" that speeds up rotation everywhere in the corner. If you have enough forward grip uni's will usually be quicker through the turns

leongkc

iTrader: (9)

With SV2 rear arms, I did. So I had to be abit careful there. Just need to reduce the droop a wee bit.

leongkc

iTrader: (9)

Explained it better than I did.

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

SV2/KR arms have shock mounting positions further inside than the KF/K1 arms... thats where the added droop comes from. If you run the inner holes on the SV2 arms you'll definetly need to limit the rear droop. From what I remember the outer holes on SV2 arms are similar to the inner on the KF/K1 arm...