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TLR 22 2.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Buggy thread

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01-28-2014, 06:41 AM

#6076

JP.R

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Baskinsj

Frank / JP,

I've set my buggy up to mid motor using the setup Frank recently posted. It feels great. Good rear traction and quick steering. I'm very happy with it except when braking hard it wants to throw the rear end and spin out. After doing some research it looks like I need to reduce the droop in the rear so that less weight is transferred to the front while braking (its currently unscrewed two eyelets). Do you agree? Any other ideas? Thanks

I would guess you have too much brake, are you slamming on them at a pretty high speed part on the track? Wherever it is braking loose, turn down your EPA on your radio till it doesn't loop out.

Hope that helps.
JP

01-28-2014, 08:58 AM

#6077

Dakotah Phend

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Quote:

Originally Posted by J@UNE

Looks like Phend use no extra weight and the esc on saddle with the waterfall...

The only weight I use is 7 grams on the tranny case.

01-28-2014, 09:21 AM

#6078

Carranza76

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Dakotah Phend

The only weight I use is 7 grams on the tranny case.

Doesn't look like you are running any aftermarket parts either.

01-28-2014, 09:30 AM

#6079

Frank Root

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred Perkins

I am really getting used to the way the 22 drives now and know I am on the right track with my setup. The one thing it is missing is drive off the corner. My car wants to over steer coming out. I don't think its in the rear because it doesn't feel like the rear brakes loose, it feels like the front grabs and pulls the rear around. Here is my current setup:

Front setup is the Ryan/Frank setup with a bell crank steering

Rear setup is the Ryan/Frank setup with 3.5 deg LRC block, 1 deg anti-squat, hubs forward, .75 hex width, 22.5 wt oil, shocks are 1-middle -4 turns, and 1-C link 3mm on the hub side.

Diff is on the tight side

I am also running the Rocket RC rear V2 bulkhead, shorty pack with waterfall brace and 21 grams of side pod weight each side in the rear

Any help would be appreciated!

Try a stiffer front spring, thinner front oil, or 2-A front camber link.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ronP617

Can you run the pucks drive system in mod??

What's better the MIP cvds or the new tlr drive shafts, or what's the difference?

Thanks

I wouldn't recommend an Alum drive train in Mod, our stuff or MIP's.

The MIP CVDs have a different off-set compared to the TLR CVA's. We have tested both and prefer the TLR 2.0 CVA's with the revised off-set (no spacer).

Quote:

Originally Posted by TLRbigdog

What is the correct part number for the aluminum M3 nuts? And do they make black ones?

DYN8542 for M3 Locknuts
DYN8552 for M3 Flanged Locknuts

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baskinsj

Like JP said, sounds like too much brake EPA. In MM, you just won't have as much brake force as RM, less weight on the rear tires. Also, with clay tires, once they get more worn in to a 45 deg angle, there is far less surface of tire for biting the track in the reverse location.

01-28-2014, 11:23 AM

#6080

vito

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I have a viper 17.5 set ant 45 timeing is that a lot? new to this

01-28-2014, 11:48 AM

#6081

Bob Barry

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Quote:

Originally Posted by vito

I have a viper 17.5 set ant 45 timeing is that a lot? new to this

Vito,

I ran my motor at 45 deg of timing geared 35/70 but every 17.5 is different. Even 2 of the same brand.

My suggestion is since you are new, set the timing to 30, gear 33/75, and focus on keeping the car on all 4 wheels for the entire race. Don't try to be fast. Try to go around with out every touching the pipe or getting marshalled. Once you can do this every time, then you will start to worry about going fast.

At this point, extra speed is going to do nothing but make you wreck faster and break more.

01-28-2014, 01:12 PM

#6082

jbrooks39

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Quote:

Originally Posted by JP.R

JP

Were most of the guys running shorty packs in their 2WD this past weekend, or were they running saddle packs?

Congrats on the great weekend results!

Joe

01-28-2014, 01:28 PM

#6083

jbrooks39

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Root MM Front End Question

Frank

You've discussed switching from 25/5 to 25/0 on your front end.

Would a change of 20/5 have the same overall effect as 25/0?

Thanks,
Joe

01-28-2014, 01:34 PM

#6084

Frank Root

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jbrooks39

Frank

You've discussed switching from 25/5 to 25/0 on your front end.

Would a change of 20/5 have the same overall effect as 25/0?

Thanks,
Joe

I have actually wanted to try 30 deg kick, but can't since we don't make -5* caster blocks. I think for MM, 20 deg kick would be way to aggressive with that much weight already over the front.

01-28-2014, 03:09 PM

#6085

Matt M.

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joe, shorty packs..

one of the changes i wanted to make was to go to 25 kick 0 caster
didnt get around to it

01-28-2014, 03:12 PM

#6086

Rybeau40

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So is the consensus that MM is the winning way to go on indoor tracks of all types now? Only 1 rear motor in 2wd buggy at Reedy seems to point to yes?

01-28-2014, 03:34 PM

#6087

Frank Root

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Rybeau40

So is the consensus that MM is the winning way to go on indoor tracks of all types now? Only 1 rear motor in 2wd buggy at Reedy seems to point to yes?

Yup, going that way...

01-28-2014, 03:43 PM

#6088

AndrewTom

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Frank,
do you think that this shift to MidMotor will make its way to Stadium Truck and 2wd SCT?

01-28-2014, 04:11 PM

#6089

nicholasxuu

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Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewTom

Frank,
do you think that this shift to MidMotor will make its way to Stadium Truck and 2wd SCT?

not sure about ST, I thought SCT class has already move on to mid motor.
for those big heavy trucks, changing to mid motor won't shift the weight by that much, but will make the car more agile (concentrated weight), yet still easier to handle than light weight 2wd buggies. Even with less traction, mid motor is still a more feasible idea than mid motor in buggy.
for our local track, hard packed clay surface, medium low traction technical track, mid motor feels to be a direct improvement over rear motor. only kyosho and AE guys are using rear motor because they have to, and some of them are struggling with setups.

01-28-2014, 05:23 PM

#6090

mlinder

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank Root

Yup, going that way...

Frank,

First, many thanks to you and the many TLR contributors that have made my transition from a B4 to the 22 2.0 a great experience.

I currently run in RM, as that is what I "grew up" with. I want to try MM, but I'm not sure what a good starting point would be for my local track, SDRC in San Diego. Others who are more talented than me would probably characterize the traction to be med/med high traction. I think it to be simply medium. I think OCRC is higher bite for sure. Depend on how much water has been applied

Can you, or someone else much better at setup than I suggest a good starting MM point for this type of track?

Thanks again for all your input on this forum.

Mark