snwchris

iTrader: (8)

On Petitrc there's a couple setups running the 2x1.6 Pistons.
That's how I currently have mine setup with, so when I hit the track in next couple weeks, since Indoor season will be starting up should know how it is.

big greg

iTrader: (119)

heres my rig I just finished, dont really like the battery leads, lol

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

So I rewired my car with deans ultra wire..... IMO it is too stiff. I normally use the TQ13awg in my 2wd cars. Unsure if I want to try it in the d413. My 12awg wires already get warm from racing. Who makes the best and most flexible 12awg? Wet Noodle? Reedy 12awg?

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

A quick tip for you guys, The best lube to use on your Friction O-rings is DOW55. It is specifically engineered for the application and has a component that swells O-rings a touch to create a better, more uniform seal. O-rings are rarely perfectly round and as such, you are supposed to lube their groves before installing them, and then you wipe the excess lube over the O-ring to provide a thin film. Additionally you can let your O-rings sit in the Dow55 for a day or two before installing them and then follow the procedure.

I take my lube a step further due to my experience with O-rings thanks to 20+ years in Paintball and make my own concoction I call Formula-44D. It contains the same swelling properties of Dow55 whilst being slicker and smoother and never sticks. I may have to make a batch and peddle it in the RC market. It is that good. LOL

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

this stuff?
http://www.amazon.com/CORNING-MOLYKO.../dp/B00B2OHYMU

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Post or PM a pic of the current setup.

Wet Noodle and all the name brand wire is nothing more than rebranded Chinese stuff these days and its stiffness depends on the silicone insulation and the strand count. Wet noodle should not be stiff and nether should any of the well known RC Brands.

You also want to strip just a hair more than 1/16' off the end of your wires and then tin just that tiny amount of wire. From there tin the contact points just before you are ready to solder the leads onto them. Of course, ALWAYS use a tiny bit of flux on the wire (I use my X-acto knife to place a small dab of it on my leads) and make sure you iron's tip is pristine before pressing down on the tinned lead and the result is a perfect solder joint.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Yes sir, but that's a whole lot of Dow55. That tube will last you YEARS!!! LOL

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

The orion stuff feels more flexible than the Deans ultra wire. But orion wants an unborn child for that stuff. I think it is because the insulation is thinner. Like the TQ13. I think the Reedy wire has a thinner insulation also.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

And Orion stopped ordering the damn Purple stuff too!!! :P

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

anyone tried the 1.2x4 pistons? The only drill bit I have is a #55. I am debating making my blanks into 1.3x3. meh, maybe I will just go up in oils

trick25

iTrader: (28)

if you want to try 3x1.3. i would close up one of the holes before i used my blanks.

braderb

the incubus

What about an alternative to hobby shop "BLACK GREASE"

kdeleon

iTrader: (10)

For the 3 x 1.3, I just plugged up one of the holes. I had already used up my blanks for 2 x 1.6 and 1.7 pistons. Since I had the 4 x 1.3, I thought I could try those instead. Torrance even suggested the same thing. I blocked mine with tooth picks and glued them in place. I recently changed out my oils and they were still in place. So it can work and no worries about incorrectly drilling new holes.

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys ... for the 2X1.6 and 1.7 pistons, are people just drilling their own ones? I've only just started building my D413.
Thanks

trick25

iTrader: (28)

yes they are drilling the blanks.