T. Deguzman

it's hard to find a low bite track in our neck of the woods. the times i've run into low bite conditions is when they just put in a new layout at IERC. in those situations i just drop the center diff from 100k to 60k.

Jakesterama

iTrader: (68)

Just read through the manual and I am really excited! Not sure what you guys are talking about with screw count, it doesn't look like any more or less than any other 4WD buggy I have built. Maybe if you count the arm stiffeners, but those are optional. The carbon/plastic hybrid steering components adds a couple screws, I would argue the pros outweighs the added weight.

The only thing I see that might be an issue for me is that the inner ballstud for the rear turn buckles are through hole with a nut on the top. It looks like it might be hard to swap holes, but maybe there is enough room to get a ball head driver from the bottom. I have a tendency to strip blind holes out, so I am appreciative of a tougher through hole with nut though.

Few things I noticed along with looking at Ty's cars-

• THANK YOU for using nut captured pistons, yet another car that I can forget about E clips in the shock! Infact, I don' see E clips anywhere!
• Bleeder caps = awesome.
• Ingenious idea of engraving rings at the bottom of shock shafts for droop setting should be highlighted.
• Diffs look very robust compared to some other 1/10th I have seen.
• I see that servo arm servo-saver is stock, but Ty is running aluminum arm.
• Diff pinion gear/outdrive is one piece, I prefer this.
• Love the sturdy rear hubs, but it is going to be bad for Hot Bodies' spares sales, lol.
• Ease of kick/squat and inside toe adjustment makes me smile.
• I don't see any talk about added weight or any on Ty's car.

Thanks for your good design and smart decisions Torrance!

murky123

HB 112784 , is this part the complete center diff? and only aprox 28 dollar?
I want to get a few centerdiffs for easy switching between light and heavier centerdiffs.
If it is aroud 28 dollar for the complete diff, that is not to bad.

Jpm1

iTrader: (8)

Thanks Torrance, I think I've read in the past that you have done that. I wonder what would be the best starting point for low grip?

I'm thinking maybe the kit setup but dropping the shock oil weight to 35f/32.5r and maybe laying over one hole at the top, also maybe 10/20/7 for the diffs for low grip to get it to pull a little in the front!

How's that sound Torrance to start?

Cheers Justin

murky123

I also need some tips regarding the oil weights in shocks and diff for low bite tracks. for starters

erevo1*16

iTrader: (8)

Well guys, I will be building my d413 to race mostly at the club level on this outdoor 'low bite' track.

I will be doing a built thread over on the forums on URC once I get my stuff in.

I keep all my threads up to date on all my projects as things change with the kits.

Feel free to look me up over there too (same user name).

Don't hate too hard on the video... It was my first laps with the sct410 and I held nothing back... that was as hard and (almost) controlled as I could go since there was no traffic, I gave her the beans~ and this video is just to show you how 'low bite' we are talking about.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0-bLSf6ibY

AlderBoy

iTrader: (17)

Torrance,

The kit setup is 10/100/10 for the diffs. What type of track and grip is this intended for? I know you mentioned you and Ty are at 15/100/3. How different does the car feel/drive with that versus the kit setup?

T. Deguzman

10/100/10 was the ROAR Nats setup which was a high grip track. That's what was published as the kit build setup because at the time the manual was being written that's what we knew. Later the setup evolved to a heavier front and lighter rear. The feel isn't drastically different, the 15/100/3 is just a bit more stable all around. For this car the center diff is the main component that changes the character of the car. As you can see the center diff stayed at 100 on both setups.

T. Deguzman

sounds like a decent place to start. it's hard to pick out a setup without actually seeing or driving the track. for the diff setup I've seen out production engineer in Taiwan run as low as 5k in the center which made the car super easy to but the front tires didn't last very long! i mean if your track is really low grip you could drop the rear diff to 2k as well.

T. Deguzman

you're right it's not the quickest thing to swap but it's not that hard either. for me I disconnect the camber links from the hubs then remove the four screws that hold the camber plate then the whole camber link assembly comes off. I've seen a lot of kyo, tamiya, tlr drivers trying to drill out broken ballstuds from a threaded aluminum bulkhead (usually ruining the bulkhead as well) which is why I designed the camber mount like this.

AlderBoy

iTrader: (17)

Awesome, thank you for that insight. So does the kit come with 500cst shock oil and 10k/100k diff oil?

Mopar

So, any one (Torance) know trans ratio for the car? Only spur is 72t, what range of pinions fit? I see Ty's running a 21 / 72 on a 5.5t motor. I plan on starting with a 13.5t or 10.5t motor and need an idea of where to start on gearing.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

I originally bought one with a programming box cheap. Then another one, then another. Now I'm "invested" in them. You can get them NIB here for pretty cheap if you keep looking in the BST.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

Doesn't change the fact that OCRC isn't "low traction". But I do see your point, that it's the lowest traction setup out there right now. Maybe the kit setup is geared for general use like a low traction outdoor track.

And this is more of what I think of as low traction:

kdeleon

iTrader: (10)

From earlier in the thread. I was also looking for the gearing ratio a few days ago.