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Old 06-14-2014, 09:20 PM
  #3106  
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Tower Hobbies now shows late June. I ordered parts back in April. Still waiting...
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:40 PM
  #3107  
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Originally Posted by Cygnus X
that is indeed the question....rocks/dirt or something.

i checked my mesh every run, in hopes of not stripping a spur, and yet it happened

anyhow, i think i might be good to go, im hoping the screws dont need a nut on them, cause there no room for the nut, with the screws im using (aluminum)...but epoxy would be permanent so i would have to machine the spur off should it strip, and theres the risk of the epoxy gluing it the diff shut so it cant be opened at all...[EDIT]the more i think about the more i want to use epoxy, i will just put some oil on the diff housing so the expoxy cant adhere to it

i used the holes that was already in the AE spur...cross my fingers that it doesnt fail...im still debating if i should epoxy it on just to be sure



Buku makes a two part thread lock that thread locks plastic to metal. Just like metal to metal thread lock, it can be undone. Google bukupower if you're interested.
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:44 PM
  #3108  
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Originally Posted by erevo1*16
So.... back to these spare parts...

Why would someone think it would be a good idea to tell us when they are coming, if there is a chance that they are wrong?

I sell cars for a living, and I'd like to share that:
1. Over Promise and UNDER deliver is a bad idea.
2. NEVER promise what you personally cannot control...

Anyway Tower is now saying "Late June" on everything... and AMain is saying 6/27/14.





PS...

I screwed up, and I may need some help.

I got my new spur gear, and when I went to remove the screw from the diff mount(bottom of the chassis, front brace.) I stripped the screw head. I tried to use a * t8 and that just rounded it more~

I then tried JB weld on the end of an "L" wrench... fail.

So I got my drill and very carefully drilled it OFF...

but now I'm left with a diff brace that has a tiny screw in it.

ANY way to get that out???


I know I think I am going to have to buy a new one....
But I'd like to save it if I can. Just wondering if there is a chance to re-tap it? (It is drilled out to the point of being concave now, so there is no purchase to be had on the screw to back it out....




Thanks
If you can find a small enough screw extractoryou might be able to get it out. I've done it on 3mm screws.
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Old 06-15-2014, 12:10 AM
  #3109  
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Right about now I'm glad I decided to buy a new 2WD Kit instead of this and stick with my 410.

When an issue like this gear spur one is common it means it's a major issue, one of which I'm sure HB will remedy it soon enough, but it's a big one and I fear it may be something that is due to the thin CF used for the chassis. Ti's why the Tresrey CF chassis is ridonculously overpriced. It's too thin for the mass and loads it has to endure and the aluminum side plates are required to increase its integral strength which cancels out the weight savings gained from the CF chassis, and it still flexes and tends to break.

I think the base chassis on the 413 should be a tad thicker and the upper deck could perhaps open up a bit wider to increase torsional rigidity, at least in the mid section to remedy the gear issue.
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Old 06-15-2014, 12:36 AM
  #3110  
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i've put my 413 through it's paces the last couple weeks racing on an outdoor, very high bite sugared track with one big triple. i've broken one rear camber link ball cup (i was wheels up sitting on the peak of the last jump on that big triple and someone missled me). no stripped spurs (knock on wood). because of this issue though, whenever i roll or flip, i'm totally off the throttle. i know the old school thinking of "hammer the throttle while you're rolling so you land wheels down" and i stopped doing that all together. if i roll or flip, i'm totally off the throttle.

with that, it's still a shame that all of these frankenspur fixes are needed. i remember the "you can drive this buggy hard and with confidence because it's so durable" line of thinking that sold many of us on this buggy. with no parts available, that thinking is non-existent or should be. i drive more careful now than i did with my 410 or B44 because i know if i break or strip a spur, who knows how long i'll be down.

yes, getting frustrated at parts availability...
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Old 06-15-2014, 12:41 AM
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I don't think the carbon chassis or top deck are too thin and causing spur issues. I think in one case it was dirt, another a bad pinion and in others either poor mesh, loose motor clamp, or some combination of the same. If there was an issue with any of the carbon parts being too thin leading to too much chassis flex / spur problems Ty would have run into them at the Nats and worlds on that super hard track.

I would like to see side pods to keep the dirt out and a hole all the way through the chassis under the spur gear to let dirt out away from the spur though. Neither are required of course, just little nice to have touches.
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:12 AM
  #3112  
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i dont think its due to flex either, the motor mount is part of the center diff mount so the only way for the center diff to flex is the front diff mount and that has a thick carbon on top plate and carbon on the bottom, if that really flexes it cant be more than a few thousands of an inch.

however it struck when i was digging through spurs, that just about all spurs are made of a plastic without fibers in it, where as the center diff on the d413 has fibers (be it carbon, glass, kevlar etc...)

i have been cutting fiber plastic and carbon tubes on my lathe, and that stuff is incredibly abrasive, i will grind down an HSS steel bit real fast, so imagine the d413 spur can do to aluminum pinion

what ever is the cause of stripped spurs...i would suggest everybody check their mesh and pull the pinion off and check it too as its nearly impossible to check it mounted
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:28 AM
  #3113  
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I have found that the set screw will loosen, allowing the motor plate to move slightly. I use loctite on it and I make sure the other two screws are secure after each run.

The other issue is it needs some kinda side pods on the cf chassis to keep the pebbles and dirt out better.

I have to say I love this car and it's a ton of fun, but very disappointed at the support and parts distribution behind it. They have a real opportunity here, but their two legs up: durability and 3 gear diff will be left in the dust without better availability on parts in NA.


I've broken a few cups that go to the rear hubs. I'm out of spares. Order parts in April, going on July on back order now.
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Old 06-15-2014, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by AlderBoy
I don't think the carbon chassis or top deck are too thin and causing spur issues. I think in one case it was dirt, another a bad pinion and in others either poor mesh, loose motor clamp, or some combination of the same. If there was an issue with any of the carbon parts being too thin leading to too much chassis flex / spur problems Ty would have run into them at the Nats and worlds on that super hard track.

I would like to see side pods to keep the dirt out and a hole all the way through the chassis under the spur gear to let dirt out away from the spur though. Neither are required of course, just little nice to have touches.
Not necessarily so. Pro drivers are so good they don't put cars through nearly as much as every day drivers do and therefore issues like these don't present themselves until they are in the hands of the masses. A pebble here, mesh there, I'm not buying it. That wouldn't result in the same issue across the board like this. Sorry but it's just too much of a coincidink.
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Old 06-15-2014, 01:29 PM
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This car has been amazing aside from the spur gear and the front ball cup shock caps. I had a 44.2 that I put much more time on an never stripped a spur gear so it did shock me when I blew this one. The 44.2 did have faults of its own with arms and rear diff gear but I am religious about mesh for proper temps binding and overall smoothness. I look forward to a replacement to see if its a tolerance issue.
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Old 06-15-2014, 03:30 PM
  #3116  
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If I want to run 3 dot FF and 1 dot FR, is that considered low or high roll center?
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Old 06-15-2014, 03:49 PM
  #3117  
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+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


in hd here: http://youtu.be/jca-cGA-e_M
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Old 06-15-2014, 06:57 PM
  #3118  
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Originally Posted by Jason Snyder
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


in hd here: http://youtu.be/jca-cGA-e_M
That thing is cutting lines like a slot car !
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:34 PM
  #3119  
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Originally Posted by Jason Snyder
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


in hd here: http://youtu.be/jca-cGA-e_M
Love the video, cant wait for your full review!...Hopefully my kit shows up this week!
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:39 PM
  #3120  
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I have been reading the posts about spur gears stripping and I thought I would let you all know what my experiences have been. I can honestly say that I have never stripped a spur gear, now I know that right away people are going to say that I probably replace them on a regular basis but that is not the case. For example at the worlds I ran 10 practice rounds, 6 qualifiers and 3 mains on one of the biggest, fastest, most abusive to cars and high grip tracks that I have ever seen in 1/10 scale racing, cars of all brands were breaking all kinds of parts and I can say that the only thing I wrecked was a front sway bar and that happened during the incident with 2 other cars in the second A main. I'm not going to try and tell anyone what they could be doing wrong or what could be happening with their cars all I can tell you is what I have done and my experiences. With all my cars whenever I use a new spur gear whether it be 1/8 or 1/10 I match it up with a new steel pinion gear or clutch bell, I never use aluminum in off road. I believe it is very important that they wear perfectly together to extend the life of both, gear mesh is obviously critical as well as making sure the motor is tight and is impossible to move. As far as driving the car as hard as I can I never hesitate, if you watch A3 of the worlds where I made probably the biggest mistake of my career, taking the corner to fast and rolling over and giving up the lead, then so I wouldn't lose even more time I used throttle and steering to right myself as I would in 1/8 scale, and with a track with that much grip I can't imagine any situation that would put more stress on a spur gear or chassis, yet my spur gear did not strip. I have done this many times prior to this and many times after. I have the confidence in the car to be able to do this and know I won't damage anything.
I would have to say that the way the car is designed with the motor mounted on the center diff mount joined top and bottom with carbon fiber that there is no way that it would flex that much without bending the aluminum mount which I have also never done.
Don't get me wrong I do feel for those of you that are having trouble getting parts I don't understand why this keeps happening and I can't say that I wouldn't be just as upset as you are, all I can say is that I hope that parts will be available very soon.
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