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Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread

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Old 01-24-2018, 07:02 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: alex4r
Kyosho ZX6.6 New Parts (* = required to update ZX6 to ZX6.6 platform)


LA359B - Center Mount Set (ZX6.6)*
LA375 - Center Diff. Gear Set(ZX6.6)*
LA375-01 - Center Diff. Gear Case Set(ZX6.6)
LA375-78 - Spur Gear(48P-78T/ZX6.6)
LA376 - Center Drive Shaft (71.5/ZX6.6)*
LA377 - Center Drive Shaft (79.5/ZX6.6)* (x2)
LA378 - Center Drive Shaft (88/ZX6.6)*
LA379 - Joint Cup Cover (ZX6/ZX6.6)*
LAW54B-01 - HD Chassis*
LA355B - Side guard set*
UM713B - Rear Arms (from RB6)*
UM561 - Outer rear hinge pins*
LA236-12B - 1.2mm Front sway bar*
LA351B 4-hole front shock tower*


Options
VVC Blades TFW126
Spare Blades TFW001-01

Manuals

Lazer ZX6.6
Lazer ZX6

After Market Bodies

JConcepts Silencer

Weight Reduction options for 13.5 Class

Chassis:
UMW711B - Carbon composite rear arms
LAW60 - Carbon composite front upper bulkhead
LAW61 - Carbon composite rear upper bulkhead
LAW52 - Carbon composite front chassis brace
LAW53 - Carbon composite rear chassis brace
LA209HB - Carbon composite gear boxes (pinion bearing retainer & upper gearbox half only, lower half not compatible/saves 4.6g total)
Driveline:
LA211B - Plastic drive cups for center drive shafts coming out of front & rear gear boxes (requires drilling two holes for set screws to secure LA379)
TFW001 - Aluminum blade style outdrives (for ball diff/requires TF013)
LA202 - Aluminum pinion shafts (for ball diff)
TFW126 - VVC outdrives (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
TFW008 - VVC cross pins (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
Misc:
LAB06LW - LW Blade body
SK0402 - Ti screw set (Available at Lunsfordracing.com)
PTK-T-2111 - Ti screw set (cheaper, slightly less durable option)
LNS7765 - Ti ball studs
LNS2688 - Ti Turnbuckles
LNS36107 - Ti Turnbuckles (super duty)
W0201H - Hard anodized lower shock balls
1-N3024A-R - Aluminum M3x2.4 nuts (for shock standoffs)
1-N3033NA-R - Aluminum M3x3.3 locknuts

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Old 09-18-2016, 08:45 PM
  #1876  
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Originally Posted by lynx75
Out of the figure in my opinion. Paying extra parts as gear diffs for a car above 500$ its out of any business.
I agree. They even go as far as bringing up the worlds last year and changing the car for high grip in the ad copy. Obviously gear difs are going to be what you want on carpet and Astro turf. I've been using them on outdoor low grip and indoor medium to high bite with good success too but yeah the new car should have them as standard.
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:30 PM
  #1877  
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Nevermind

Last edited by thecman26; 10-11-2016 at 11:41 PM.
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Old 10-11-2016, 10:23 AM
  #1878  
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ZX center diff is up on the Kyosho Japan web shop. This usually means release is imminent (and it shows an October release).

Mike
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:54 PM
  #1879  
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Originally Posted by likea45
I agree. They even go as far as bringing up the worlds last year and changing the car for high grip in the ad copy. Obviously gear difs are going to be what you want on carpet and Astro turf. I've been using them on outdoor low grip and indoor medium to high bite with good success too but yeah the new car should have them as standard.
I think Kyosho is working to come out with a new 2wd and 4wd cars as rb7 and zx7. Perhaps end of next year ....

Anyway current kits are high performer
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Old 10-28-2016, 04:21 PM
  #1880  
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I have a 6.6 on pre-order. I'm glad there including a center diff but how will it handle have ball diff front and rear? This is my first 10 scale. Will I changing them out? I drive all kyosho 8 scale. I watch to many of my friends race indoor off-road in the winter. So I have to join in.lol
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Old 10-28-2016, 11:17 PM
  #1881  
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Anyone able to contrast how this drives in relation to an xb4? Thx

Last edited by JAE; 10-29-2016 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 10-29-2016, 02:36 AM
  #1882  
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Originally Posted by exheliguy
I have a 6.6 on pre-order. I'm glad there including a center diff but how will it handle have ball diff front and rear? This is my first 10 scale. Will I changing them out? I drive all kyosho 8 scale. I watch to many of my friends race indoor off-road in the winter. So I have to join in.lol
Great choice! Ball Diffs feel great in the buggy if you know how to tune and setup them. I would suggest the gear diff for my 8th scale'r friends as it's easier to get it going. This buggy likes to have the front and rear around the same "tightness" vs the 8th scale counterpart of 5/5/3.

I've ran 10th scale much longer than I have 8th scale.
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:12 PM
  #1883  
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Originally Posted by JAE
Anyone able to contrast how this drives in relation to an xb4? Thx
I was running X-ray before coming to kyosho. The Xb4 is a very fast and capable platform. Two places I think the ZX6 excels at over the X-ray:
1. Cornering. My XB4 was very easy to drive right out of the box but I always felt like I wanted more steering. I'd find it but then I would have too much. I'd play with dialing it back and forth until I'd reach a point I could "live with". Spending an additional $100+ on the ECS drive shafts was the only way to get the car to turn the way I wanted. The ZX6 from go had loads of steering, too much in fact, but I found it much easier to dial back. With all that said the ZX6 enters and exits corners faster and is a bit more agile in tricky sections for my taste.

2. Jumping and landing. I was never blown away by the X-ray shock package. I had to buy aftermarket parts to keep them going although I will say they are easy to build. Nothing and I mean nothing touches a Kyosho shock though. Buttery smooth and plush, rebuild after rebuild after rebuild. They just have it down when it comes to shocks. This allows the car to land more plush and stable which in turn means quicker to accelerate on landing.

The XB4 is great chassis, I think it's durability is something Kyosho could learn from and it's easy to drive out of the box and a breeze to work on. The ZX6 is also easy to drive out of the box but I think it's better in the hands of an experienced driver who's had a wheeler before than a first timer. I believe the X-ray is easier for a beginner especially when durability is a factor.

I was instantly faster with the ZX6.
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Old 10-30-2016, 08:31 PM
  #1884  
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I have tekin rsx in a xray t3 that I'm thinking on using. Along with a redline 5turn . I have no clue as to what size pinion to use with my esc and motor. What's a starting point for pinion?
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Old 10-30-2016, 08:58 PM
  #1885  
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Originally Posted by exheliguy
I have tekin rsx in a xray t3 that I'm thinking on using. Along with a redline 5turn . I have no clue as to what size pinion to use with my esc and motor. What's a starting point for pinion?
16-17/78 is where i would start, keep an eye on temps. Better take the pin out of the slipper cause its gonna be a handful with a solid slipper, actually its gonna
be a handful period.
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:06 AM
  #1886  
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I see that kyosho makes aluminum rear hubs. Do they also make front knuckles and carriers? And will the zx6 parts fit the new 6.6?
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:56 AM
  #1887  
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Originally Posted by exheliguy
I see that kyosho makes aluminum rear hubs. Do they also make front knuckles and carriers? And will the zx6 parts fit the new 6.6?
No aluminum front end parts that i know of, i dont believe any of the front end parts interchange with the 6.6.
This is a car that demands precision, if you hit things you will
break it. I personally would rather have ball diffs for anything less than really high grip
clay. Once you learn how to build them and break them in they last quite a while. I see
so many people.complaining about ball diff maintenance, when they get gritty you pull
them apart sand the rings flat, clean everthing and reassemble. No neeed to buy rings
and balls for every rebuild thats just crazy.
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Old 11-01-2016, 09:16 AM
  #1888  
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Ill start with the ball diffs . I'm sure it'll plenty for me. And I like to add a couple aluminum parts when possible but now that I think of it, I would rather replace a 8$ part if need be then a 40$ part. Especially since I'm just starting out now 10 scale offroad. I'm really looking forward to this buggy. Can someone post pics of there buggy? It's nice to see people's rigs.
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Old 11-01-2016, 09:19 AM
  #1889  
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Are the balls that come with the kit ok? Or should I get high end balls from the start?
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Old 11-01-2016, 09:25 AM
  #1890  
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Honestly i would get rid of that 5t motor and get a nice 13.5 for it. You will save yourself lot
of problems. Smooth is fast and its very difficult to be smooth with a 5t.
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