I got a little creative with the switch placement. I used my Dremel to cut a tiny notch under the center chassis brace and ran the switch wire under the brace and across the chassis. There's just enough switch wire to mount the switch behind the battery tray. I'd attach pictures if I could figure out how...

I don't run it, but common spots for the XR8 switch are behind the battery tray and on top of the receiver box.

Best overall diff oil set up to run on large outdoor track medium traction lose dirt

This will vary a lot depending on driving style and other set up. I run stock oils from the ET48.3 in mine and like it. Many other team drivers run with MUCH thicker diff oils as they drive more with the car sideways and loose than I do. I would start with stock, or whatever matches the setup you're using to start with, and then adjust from there.

I started with the ET-48 stock oil set-up then when I rebuilt the diffs I used some Losi oils and went with 10wt-15wt-5wt (f-c-r). It most DEFINITELY made a difference, not one I'm sure I will keep.

I may just go back to the stock setup this season... not 100% sure on that...

Just my .02¢

I raced last weekend at Thornhill racing circuit in the dirt lonestar challenge. Started out with the 10/10/5 felt great, but bumped the front up to 16k and it felt even better. It pulled out of the corners much better, without killing off power steering...IMO

I love this truggy! That is all (might have video later)! :-D

I need softer suspension, stock springs are green, shall I go with pink springs or yellow springs?

I finished my first racing weekend with Tekno cars and as much I loved the eb48.3, I hated et48.3 with the stock setup. I worked on it every free minute, changed diff oils to 10/7/2, went down with shock oils to 500/450, lenghten the wheelbase, changed ride height completely (higher front than rear), a few more geometry changes and in the last race it started to behave as I would like it to. Stock setup was completely wrong for my riding style...

What are you trying to get it to do that it wasn't doing? How would you describe your style and also the track and surface you're trying it on? I've stayed with the kit springs, but most go stiffer. On other vehicles I'm the one that goes stiffer than most.

For springs in order from light to stiff:
Pink < green < yellow < orange

I run on a big track with a lot of small jumps, very bumpy, a few 180 turns, a few fast turns which are bumpy. It's a typical european track which differs a lot from US tracks. The surface is clay but it's loose with a lot of dirt.

First of all the rear was very loose. In fast corners it was sliding all over the track, the rear was trying to pass the front. I prefer to keep the racing line and avoid sliding. The track is big and bumpy and the truggy was very nervous on small bumps at high speeds - the suspension was working too slow. It was also suddenly loosing traction at technical parts of the track, at left-to-right fast turns (also bumpy). Generally it was very difficult to drive without making mistakes.

Surprisingly buggy Eb48.3 was great, the setup was almost all stock, just went down a little with the shock oils and changed rear diff oil to 3000.

The stock setup is definitely rear end happy on throttle, as are most of the pro setups. If you still have the stock setup on it, I found this to be much more stable, even on loose/rutted tracks, and allow me to turn in more on brake. I'm not certain it will work for you and your driving style/track, but they're quick and easy changes from stock that can give you some ideas to try beyond just going softer. I don't have a couple things listed, but droop is pretty much full and ride height is level front to back, after everything started stock. I'm a good driver, but not a great driver, and this has let me do quite well with my ET48.3. My driving style is power out of corners and late brake into and through the turn. Hope it helps. Let me know how it works out for you, or if you have any questions.

Thanks a lot for these tips. Will definitely try your setup. A lot of work before me on this car...

I found that if you are able to add more drop that will help through the bumps. JQ had a good write up on his blog about droop. He talked about going through a high speed area that was bumpy and his buggy was wanting to roll. He corrected by removing droop. Sounds like you have just the opposite effect. So I would think adding droop will help.

What Cts is that?

So finished with my build. diff is 10/15/5, tekin 2000kv, rx8g2, 15t pinion. I am having a problem with wheelies any help other then throttle finger control. I mean I can roll into the trigger and even when going 3/4 throttle and pull the rest the wheels are lifting. any help?