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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
(Post 13375797)
The head of the screw should be on top of the ball end and you should be screwing into the horn. This is the horn I use (I like using the shorter arm/hole) and with a dab of thread lock I have never had it unscrew.
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Originally Posted by teknorc
(Post 13375602)
We're hoping to have it done in 3-4 weeks. It will address mostly generic attributes since most of the cars are similar, but we will definitely put in specifics where possible (i.e. SCT/EB/NB/ET/NT specific tuning advice).
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Originally Posted by teknorc
(Post 13375602)
We're hoping to have it done in 3-4 weeks. It will address mostly generic attributes since most of the cars are similar, but we will definitely put in specifics where possible (i.e. SCT/EB/NB/ET/NT specific tuning advice).
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Originally Posted by mkl
(Post 13375966)
Sounds great. Will this be something that is on the support page of the Tekno site available for download? or will there be a fee for it?
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Originally Posted by iScream
(Post 13375723)
My ET48 and EB48 both had the plastic caps in there but they also had aluminum caps in the kits, so I didn't use the plastic ones.
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hey tekno when are you guys going to get ftw to make a new body for the et48 and nt48
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I built my diffs in my new kit. the diff shims that came with my kit were silver and the same size as the package of new diff shims that i had. the new package of shims i had were black and seemed to be about .05mm thicker and seemed to have a lot less flex when i tried to bend them compared to the ones that came with the kit. i dont understand why there are different runs of shims. the ones that came with my sct410 have been bulletproof. over two years on them and they still look good.
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I just built mine too and it had the silver ones as well. I just used some spare black ones I got for my truck and buggy. Not sure what ones were good or not. I figured if the silver ones are good, I will keep them as a spare.
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the silvler ones are bad. will work for a back up, but only last a race or 2.
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Thanks for letting me know. Glad I went ahead and used the replacement black washers.
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Originally Posted by RC 4 LIFE
(Post 13381422)
I built my diffs in my new kit. the diff shims that came with my kit were silver and the same size as the package of new diff shims that i had. the new package of shims i had were black and seemed to be about .05mm thicker and seemed to have a lot less flex when i tried to bend them compared to the ones that came with the kit. i dont understand why there are different runs of shims. the ones that came with my sct410 have been bulletproof. over two years on them and they still look good.
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I built the kit with 100% stock setup. im now thinking that the diff oils are too heavy. i run on a med sized loose rough outdoor track. it seems like every setup sheet/reccomendation ive seen is 10 in the front and 5 in the rear with varying oils in the center. so the question is would it be worth it to tear it back apart and change the diff oils? thanks for your input
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I have a question about soldering...
I am about to start soldering the components and had a question about the gauge of the wires... It seems as though my battery packs have a 10AWG wire, and the wires that came with my motor (A,B,C) are a 12AWG... does this matter? Should I just buy my own 10AWG wires to use for the motor instead of using the supplied 12AWG wires to keep them all the same gauge??? |
10awg wire is overkill for the batteries and the motor wires to be honest. You "can" do whatever but 12 awg is more than sufficient for most 1/8 motors.
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 13385820)
10awg wire is overkill for the batteries and the motor wires to be honest. You "can" do whatever but 12 awg is more than sufficient for most 1/8 motors.
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